Do-anything LJ build advice

Been a busy week! UAM is fully installed. New rear driveline (from a local shop) is running well. Steering is good and stable. Dialing in the detailed adjustments in front. Ordered an ORO SwayLoc from Poly Performance, looking forward to putting that in. The RE disconnects aren’t great, and the heims are wearing out.

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Finally pulled the cover to diagnose the rear locker, which won't stay engaged under any load. Discovered that I have a fully open LSD/locker. So I pulled the trigger on ARBs for both axles. And, since I placed the order after a wine tasting AND a beer tasting, I'm apparently installing 4.56 gears as well. 😆

Edit: Seems like I should replace the axle seals and bearings since I'm going to have it yarded-out anyway. Are there kits available, or do I need to find the individual seals and bearings?
 
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The point is there is a lot of confusion and justifications out there about "cages". The most common answer to someone pointing out that there are glaring discrepancies in aftermarket versions is to say that "something is better than nothing". While on the face that is a true statement, where it fails is you don't have nothing now. You do have some protection and while it does have some limitations that require you to need a crystal ball to predict how to roll your rig and stay safe, the same is also true for the vast majority of aftermarket options as well.

You can't have a cage that will protect you correctly unless you tie it into the frame correctly, get windshield spreaders in place, an X through the firewall and then tie all that in properly through to the front of the frame. That also necessitates door bars which requires ingress and egress through the windows. No one is going to do that so you wind up with a lot of compromises that generally tend to cause one to wheel with a bit more confidence than is prudent. Especially since the other side of that equation is a proper 5 point harness, a helmet, window nets, and wrist restraints. Yeah I know, I mentioned restraints but don't get all excited, they just keep your arms from flying out the window in a roll. Not the ones you were thinking of.

I think I know but would like to hear opinions from the "Crew" on the RockHard Sport Cage that came with my LJR. It does not have the floor mounts, which probably makes it even worse. Might it be worth the bother to add the floor mounts?

Gotta admit, I fell for it when making the LJ purchase... ooooo.. a roll cage!
Let'r rip!

BTW: Received the silver winch line and fairlead Saturday. The 6yr old twins will love the stickers on their electric Jeeps. Oh, and the badass wizard balm holsters.:cool:
 
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Finally pulled the cover to diagnose the rear locker, which won't stay engaged under any load. Discovered that I have a fully open LSD/locker. So I pulled the trigger on ARBs for both axles. And, since I placed the order after a wine tasting AND a beer tasting, I'm apparently installing 4.56 gears as well. 😆
Wondering why the 4.56 when most here recommend 5.13 manual or 5.38 auto on 35s.
 
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W


If you know what it is, why not make the right choice now?

I've played around with ratios on http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html, comparing to what I have now and what my old TJ had. The 4.56 matches closest to my TJ (which I was happy with), and since these aren't my "forever" gears I want to try something a little different.
 
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I've played around with ratios on http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html, comparing to what I have now and what my old TJ had. The 4.56 matches closest to my TJ (which I was happy with), and since these aren't my "forever" gears I want to try something a little different.

The one thing none of these charts ever show is the rolling resistance & added weight of the larger tire. So if you are trying to match a ratio you had before with the same RPM's you might not be as happy once you drive it. If you can find them there are some articles out there that talk about this.
 
I have found that gear ratio's are a known quantity around here. There's a few threads that simply state what you SHOULD run based on many TJ/LJ folks that have gone before you. I'm on 35's with the 42RLE with 5.13's and it's pretty peachy. That being said, I could DEFINITELY see the benefit of going 5.38's, if I had a heavier 35 or small 37's in mind.

For now, we're gonna wheel it as-is and see where we end up.

Edit: For your build, OP, My thought is that 4.56's aren't gonna be optimal, but if you'll be running 33's for a long time, maybe they'll be livable before you head up to 4.88's or 5.13's.
 
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The one thing none of these charts ever show is the rolling resistance & added weight of the larger tire. So if you are trying to match a ratio you had before with the same RPM's you might not be as happy once you drive it. If you can find them there are some articles out there that talk about this.

Yep,for that reason i almost never post gear charts.information without context is worse than none
 
I have found that gear ratio's are a known quantity around here. There's a few threads that simply state what you SHOULD run based on many TJ/LJ folks that have gone before you. I'm on 35's with the 42RLE with 5.13's and it's pretty peachy. That being said, I could DEFINITELY see the benefit of going 5.38's, if I had a heavier 35 or small 37's in mind.

For now, we're gonna wheel it as-is and see where we end up.

Edit: For your build, OP, My thought is that 4.56's aren't gonna be optimal, but if you'll be running 33's for a long time, maybe they'll be livable before you head up to 4.88's or 5.13's.

The one thing none of these charts ever show is the rolling resistance & added weight of the larger tire. So if you are trying to match a ratio you had before with the same RPM's you might not be as happy once you drive it. If you can find them there are some articles out there that talk about this.

Inertia of the larger tire is not something I had considered, thanks.

However, I have stock 4.10s currently, and I don’t hate them. So 4.56 should be a bit better. We’ll see. 🤷‍♂️
 
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(This will be painful.)

Threw a P0241 yesterday. Here’s a snapshot of the O2 sensor readings. Peaks are just above 0.9V, and based on the downstream sensors and code it looks like it’s time for new 🐈, correct?. 114k miles.

IMG_7997.png
 
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