Not gonna lie, I panicked a little yesterday when I mocked up the tie rod at full stuff and saw this:
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A couple things working against me in this pic though are that I stuck larger 2" PVC on there for mockup and the pitman arm itself was biased to the left side. I removed the pitman clocking key and rotated it right one tooth which gives me more front to back clearance when turning fully left. I really almost bought Rancho knuckles! I don't really know why JK/JL pitman arms have that offset to them, maybe just so the link can be an inch longer.
Clearances are still extremely tight with it so high up. I don't know if I measured something wrong when planning it out or what but I wasn't expecting it to be higher than the pitman arm joint. After thinking about it for a bit, I think I've devised a plan that should work and maintain optimal geometry.
Full stuff full right turn is ok, everything clears:
View attachment 415060
Full left turn is a bit tighter though:
View attachment 415061
Same viewed from the front:
View attachment 415062
Before, I was planning on just running straight aluminum bar for all 3 linkages with double adjustable ends, but I don't think there's any way around doing a bent trackbar. The bar needs to go over/in front of the diff cover then sneak under the pitman arm bolt. I threw my old currie track bar up there, and it does seem like it will work with a fairly similar shape. The frame side joint has enough space to live between the fully turned tie rod and the spring perch and can still be in line with the pitman joint. I've never bent tubing before so hopefully I can make it work on my shop press. Not aware of anyone locally that does that sort of stuff.
Good news is the high steer arm on the knuckle seems like it is going to work perfectly, so I think I'll go ahead and tackle that soon. Got a new Monroe stabilizer to put there, and that also seems like it will clear everything.