Extended Front Brake Lines

So, related question. I got stainless extended brake lines with my RK 3.5inch kit. After installing them, trying to ensure they weren't twisted, i bleed them (speed-bleeders ftw) and put tires on. Turns out at full lock the tire hits the brake lines.

Can anyone post pictures of what their routing looks like with extended lines? I'm starting to think putting a twist in them may have been good to bias them away from the tire. I was worried about them hitting the lower control arms. Got them to clear there but now hitting tires..
 
Anyone that has swapped for the YJ lines, have you ever had one bend? I took mine out wheeling today (first trial run) and found that one of my lines was bent inward at the metal tubing. Had to ease it back a bit so it was hitting my spring. Going to Moab next week and really don't want to go brakeless during a run...
 
MrAndersonJeep said:
Anyone that has swapped for the YJ lines, have you ever had one bend? I took mine out wheeling today (first trial run) and found that one of my lines was bent inward at the metal tubing. Had to ease it back a bit so it was hitting my spring. Going to Moab next week and really don't want to go brakeless during a run...
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How long are your shocks?
 
basic said:
So, related question. I got stainless extended brake lines with my RK 3.5inch kit. After installing them, trying to ensure they weren't twisted, i bleed them (speed-bleeders ftw) and put tires on. Turns out at full lock the tire hits the brake lines.

Can anyone post pictures of what their routing looks like with extended lines? I'm starting to think putting a twist in them may have been good to bias them away from the tire. I was worried about them hitting the lower control arms. Got them to clear there but now hitting tires..
Click to expand...
When I put dropped spindles on my Rambler wagon, it caused my flexible brake lines/hoses to protrude toward the rims in a hard turn. What I did was get some appropriately sized clamps that had a rubber encasement on them, and put one on each hose. Then I attached a very light-duty spring of appropriate length to the clamp, and the other end of the spring to a mounting point on the inner fender well of the car. This kept the hoses pulled in toward the body and away from the rim when steering one direction, and allowed the hose to still extend out as needed for turns in the other direction. Worked beautifully for many years, and stopped the cutting of my brake hoses. I'm fairly certain that would also work for our TJs, and something I will be doing, if deemed necessary. Here's the style of clamp I used:
UT8nRT4XCFXXXagOFbXb.jpg
 
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I know I'm late to this thread, but here are links to readily available Dorman EPDM rubber direct replacement, extended length front and rear center brake hoses (4" longer than stock). No special washers or other parts required.

The part numbers for these extended length front brake hoses were posted by MrBlaine in another thread in this or another forum that I can't seem to locate as I write.

Front Left:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2CHHK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Front Right:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2CBTY/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Rear Center:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2C63K/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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So I misspoke when I said spring, it was the shock, but I'm running bilstien shocks (not sure the length of the fronts because they came with the lift I bought). Mr. Bills those look like a nice option. Pretty cheap too.
 
What size is the copper washer? I'm looking at a couple of multi packs on Amazon, and just want to make sure they come with the proper thick washers.
 
Mr. Bills said:
I know I'm late to this thread, but here are links to readily available Dorman EPDM rubber direct replacement, extended length front and rear center brake hoses (4" longer than stock). No special washers or other parts required.

The part numbers for these extended length front brake hoses were posted by MrBlaine in another thread in this or another forum that I can't seem to locate as I write.

Front Left:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2CHHK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Front Right:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2CBTY/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Rear Center:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2C63K/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Click to expand...

Nice, thank you for posting this.
 
Super useful thread. Thanks for the parts links.

One thing that seems a little vague is about whether you need these for a modest lift. Mine is 2-2.5 inches. Even with the sway bar disconnected, is there risk that the OEM lines are going to be too short and break? Some folks said 3+“ is the worry spot, others said even 2” would sometimes be pushing it.
 
Creakydoor said:
Super useful thread. Thanks for the parts links.

One thing that seems a little vague is about whether you need these for a modest lift. Mine is 2-2.5 inches. Even with the sway bar disconnected, is there risk that the OEM lines are going to be too short and break? Some folks said 3+“ is the worry spot, others said even 2” would sometimes be pushing it.
Click to expand...

As with many things, the lift height is not the measurement that specifically matters. Hang the axle from the shocks. Turn the steering side to side. What is happening to the brake hoses?
 
The YJ lines have the flat surface where they connect to the brake caliper on the wrong side. It makes the hose go up and stay close to the shock body. Can anyone confirm this is what they did? Seems like it will just rub on the shock all the time.

image.jpg
 
JMT said:
The YJ lines have the flat surface where they connect to the brake caliper on the wrong side. It makes the hose go up and stay close to the shock body. Can anyone confirm this is what they did? Seems like it will just rub on the shock all the time.

View attachment 243547
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Mine rubbed on the shock all the time.
 
jjvw said:
Mine rubbed on the shock all the time.
Click to expand...
I looked at the Dorman's that Mr. Bills mentioned later in this thread (sourcing blaine) and noticed that it was squared off on all four sides (those are the one's people should buy), whereas the YJ lines are squared off on just one side, forcing it to orient in a straight up position with the bend just around the bleeder screw and the tube right on the shock body. I said, "screw that," and got out the grinder and made a flat edge on the proper side so it would be oriented like the stock oriented back and away from the caliper.
 
JMT said:
I looked at the Dorman's that Mr. Bills mentioned later in this thread (sourcing blaine) and noticed that it was squared off on all four sides (those are the one's people should buy), whereas the YJ lines are squared off on just one side, forcing it to orient in a straight up position with the bend just around the bleeder screw and the tube right on the shock body. I said, "screw that," and got out the grinder and made a flat edge on the proper side so it would be oriented like the stock oriented back and away from the caliper.
Click to expand...
This is what I'm getting after bending my YJ stuff. -3AN fittings where each piece is replaceable.
Screenshot_20210409-101456_Chrome.jpg
 
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This is what I did from a couple different angles

B60093EA-7F9C-4855-9883-E22BD9DB4B40.jpeg


37B84EEB-8BBF-4045-BEE8-F6A521FC5C4B.jpeg
 
I just put the YJ lines on my TJ with a 2" lift, and they seem to rub on the shock all the time. There are little plastic rings on the line that you can move so that they protect the line where they rub. I would rather they run the shock body than the tire like some have shown.

IMG_20210410_163511.jpg
 
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