Garage safety

[astjp2]

Unfortunately I see a major fight over this. I wish my wife would help in my shop more.

RULES for the garage/shop
1. use jackstands and deplete pressure from hydraulic jacks when working under a vehicle
2. get a commercial grade fire extinguisher, they have metal tops, not the cheap ones at walmart. Expect to pay $100 or more for a good one with a current date.
3. Get a FLAME CABINET https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8TSBW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
4. Gloves when necessary, take them off when drilling and using tools that rotate.
5. Safety glasses and Safety shields
6. hearing protection when necessary.
7. dont overload shelves with too much weight
8. use flush cut snips when trimming zip ties, you can gut a fish with a sharp zip tie...
9 a painted garage floor improves light and makes it easier to find those things you always drop
10. do not overload electrical circuits, dont plug a power strip into a power strip or extension chord
11. keep an eye out for bins and hooks for peg board so you can utilize all of your wall space.

12. Good lighting is essential, I just coverted my garage to LED, cost me $300 for 16 bulbs 8 feet long. I still need to convert my shop.
13. Good air compressor is essential to run a small harbor freight bead blast cabinet
14. good solvent tank with safety lid, if it flash fires the lid automatically closes.
15 metal safety trash cans, plastic ones melt if there is a spontaneous combustion fire from oily rags.
16. lots of dunnage for blocking things up if you need it. (boards to set things on)
17. anything with a steel cable can be dangerous, some ropes are good, others are not
18. frayed tie down straps can break, good ones are not expensive
19. use the right tool for the right job, if you have it. a monkey wrench is not a hammer
20. have enough air hose so you can put it where you dont trip on it, because if its laying on the floor,its a trip hazard!

 

[Squatch]

Keep long hair tied back, be it on your head, or your face. Machinery/tools don't give a s*#% about hair styles. Remember my little "garage incident"?

 

[Kathy]

Unfortunately I see a major fight over this. I wish my wife would help in my shop more.

RULES for the garage/shop
1. use jackstands and deplete pressure from hydraulic jacks when working under a vehicle
2. get a commercial grade fire extinguisher, they have metal tops, not the cheap ones at walmart. Expect to pay $100 or more for a good one with a current date.
3. Get a FLAME CABINET https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8TSBW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
4. Gloves when necessary, take them off when drilling and using tools that rotate.
5. Safety glasses and Safety shields
6. hearing protection when necessary.
7. dont overload shelves with too much weight
8. use flush cut snips when trimming zip ties, you can gut a fish with a sharp zip tie...
9 a painted garage floor improves light and makes it easier to find those things you always drop
10. do not overload electrical circuits, dont plug a power strip into a power strip or extension chord
11. keep an eye out for bins and hooks for peg board so you can utilize all of your wall space.View attachment 74071View attachment 74072
12. Good lighting is essential, I just coverted my garage to LED, cost me $300 for 16 bulbs 8 feet long. I still need to convert my shop.
13. Good air compressor is essential to run a small harbor freight bead blast cabinet
14. good solvent tank with safety lid, if it flash fires the lid automatically closes.
15 metal safety trash cans, plastic ones melt if there is a spontaneous combustion fire from oily rags.
16. lots of dunnage for blocking things up if you need it. (boards to set things on)
17. anything with a steel cable can be dangerous, some ropes are good, others are not
18. frayed tie down straps can break, good ones are not expensive
19. use the right tool for the right job, if you have it. a monkey wrench is not a hammer
20. have enough air hose so you can put it where you dont trip on it, because if its laying on the floor,its a trip hazard!

Wow, what a great list! Thank you. Dave has hundreds of those blue boxes stacked in our storage shed waiting to be utilized. He got them from work but not the board to attach them on. I’m hoping he comes up with a way to use them soon.
So is the solvent tank for old solvents your disposing of? Dave gets rid of nothing. He has cans of solvents and sprays from the 80s I bet. Lighting is still an issue we are tackling. We need more around the car lift but can’t agree on location/ installation.

 

[Kathy]

Keep long hair tied back, be it on your head, or your face. Machinery/tools don't give a s*#% about hair styles. Remember my little "garage incident"?
View attachment 74073

Oh yes, I sure do remember. We keep our beards trimmed over here . But my hair on my head needs to be pulled back more often. Has your beard grown back, I hope?

 

[Kathy]

After pulling up the flame metal cabinet example I realize we do have several of those around here. Just not hung yet. And they aren’t bright yellow or red. I’m curious if those metal cabinets are made out of thicker steel that makes them special?

 

[Kathy]

Another question I thought of is when you have a car on a two post car lift, and there’s several days of work being done, are you supposed to lower the vehicle when your done for the day or is it ok to keep it raised until your done working on it?

 

[mde8965]

Lots of great tips here. One that I learned the hard way 6 months ago.

Have your cell phone on you (not just in the room) when working alone. It’s hot in Florida and I have window AC in my garage so was working in there with the doors shut. Got up on a ladder to put my soft top hardware on a high shelf. Hit the big canopy bracket on the shelf on the way in, it knocked me off balance and I fell. Broke my leg real bad. Phone was on my workbench 15ft away. So I had no choice but to lay there and scream my head off. Luckily one of the neighbors was replacing his fence. Heard me and came over and called 911 for me. The missus tells me I need to buy Life Alert. “I’ve fallen and I can’t get up”.

Never ever get under a vehicle without chocking the wheels and having enough jack stands to support. I do this and also leave the floor jack under there too supporting the vehicle. Figuring if somehow the vehicle fell off the jack stands the jack would catch part of it, hopefully enough of it so I would survive.

 

[J R]

So not check, cholk. Thanks @Kiwi TJ for the visual. So if your jacking up just one side of a vehicle you block the other wheels to keep it from rolling.

Just bringing it up in case your not aware. While jacking up a vehicle something needs to roll. If the jack isn’t able to roll then the vehicle needs to and vice versa. I wouldn’t recommend butting up chocks up tight to the tire until the vehicle is placed on jack stands. If the floor jack is able to roll freely then it isn’t a concern.

I’m not talking about taking a tire an inch off the ground to remove it but jacking the whole rear or front to get enough room to work under.

I sure hope I made sense by typing this.

 

[PCO6]

Great thread. Thanks for starting it! :thumbsup: There are hundreds of shop safety tips and best practices and hopefully this thread comes to the top occasionally for future reminders.

I work alone in my garage. One thing my wife and kids are well aware of (because I have blasted each one of them for doing it) is that you DO NOT just barge in to the garage. I have oriented most of my benches, welding table, tools stations, table saw, etc. so that the man door is at least in my peripheral vision. They know that if I ever have my back to the door when I am working on something I don't care how long they have to stand there until I see them.

Regarding fire extinguishers, I've never needed one but you obviously need to have them. I have 4 in my garage plus 1 on my welding cart which I take outside on occasion. As stated above, it's good to actually use one. I've discharged a couple of old ones just for this purpose.

In the event of fire, I keep 2 fire extinguishers by the rear man door. One for me and one for the person I'm yelling to for help! :risas3:

 

[glwood]

Great thread. Thanks for starting it! :thumbsup: There are hundreds of shop safety tips and best practices and hopefully this thread comes to the top occasionally for future reminders.

I work alone in my garage. One thing my wife and kids are well aware of (because I have blasted each one of them for doing it) is that you DO NOT just barge in to the garage. I have oriented most of my benches, welding table, tools stations, table saw, etc. so that the man door is at least in my peripheral vision. They know that if I ever have my back to the door when I am working on something I don't care how long they have to stand there until I see them.

Regarding fire extinguishers, I've never needed one but you obviously need to have them. I have 4 in my garage plus 1 on my welding cart which I take outside on occasion. As stated above, it's good to actually use one. I've discharged a couple of old ones just for this purpose.

In the event of fire, I keep 2 fire extinguishers by the rear man door. One for me and one for the person I'm yelling to for help! :risas3:

View attachment 74075

What is a 'man door'?

 

[mrblaine]

The best thing you can do is remember to pay attention. When you do stuff like this all the time, its easy to take your skills for granted. its the times when you think, I only have this one little bead to grind, so I won't put the leather gloves on...then the grinder catches and you end up grinding the skin off your finger...as I'm looking at a skinned knuckle on my hand from that exact thing.

Don't make sparks or weld near flammables...Tie up your hair and sleeves near spinny things, use a pushstick on the table saw (and don't reach over the blade)...Keep your fingers away from sharp things, cut away from your hands and body, Stuff like that.

I keep all my flammables in one corner of the shop (gas cans and what not). My paint and thinners are in a steel cabinet (when I remember to put them away) and most of my aerosols are out of harms way, on a shelf.

Also, things get hot and smoke...doesn't always mean that its a precursor to a fire. Drilling a hole in metal will generally get the lubricating oil hot enough to smoke, but there really isn't a fire hazard there. Wait until your out there when Dave has to burn a rubber bushing out or something!

Our most common inadvertent fire is brake fluid on a rag we just used to clean up a spill with and then proceeded to weld around. The first time it happened surprised me because I didn't realize that brake fluid was flammable. The second most common accidental fires are my clothes. I have my helper watch while I'm under the rig with the caution, "if you see me on fire, don't bump me and make me screw the weld up, just put the fire out".

 

[mrblaine]

Unfortunately I see a major fight over this. I wish my wife would help in my shop more.

RULES for the garage/shop
1. use jackstands and deplete pressure from hydraulic jacks when working under a vehicle
2. get a commercial grade fire extinguisher, they have metal tops, not the cheap ones at walmart. Expect to pay $100 or more for a good one with a current date.
3. Get a FLAME CABINET https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8TSBW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
4. Gloves when necessary, take them off when drilling and using tools that rotate.
5. Safety glasses and Safety shields
6. hearing protection when necessary.
7. dont overload shelves with too much weight
8. use flush cut snips when trimming zip ties, you can gut a fish with a sharp zip tie...
9 a painted garage floor improves light and makes it easier to find those things you always drop
10. do not overload electrical circuits, dont plug a power strip into a power strip or extension chord
11. keep an eye out for bins and hooks for peg board so you can utilize all of your wall space.View attachment 74071View attachment 74072
12. Good lighting is essential, I just coverted my garage to LED, cost me $300 for 16 bulbs 8 feet long. I still need to convert my shop.
13. Good air compressor is essential to run a small harbor freight bead blast cabinet
14. good solvent tank with safety lid, if it flash fires the lid automatically closes.
15 metal safety trash cans, plastic ones melt if there is a spontaneous combustion fire from oily rags.
16. lots of dunnage for blocking things up if you need it. (boards to set things on)
17. anything with a steel cable can be dangerous, some ropes are good, others are not
18. frayed tie down straps can break, good ones are not expensive
19. use the right tool for the right job, if you have it. a monkey wrench is not a hammer
20. have enough air hose so you can put it where you dont trip on it, because if its laying on the floor,its a trip hazard!

A tip for anyone who does not have stacking/wall bins and is looking to get some. Given a choice, get the yellow or translucent white ones. They are so much easier to see parts in. I don't like looking for something in the dark and it is much easier to see what is in the bins when they are light colored. Also given a choice, paint the entire inside of the garage or shop in gloss white. The gloss slows down how much dirt sticks, and the white really makes the shop easier to work in.

 

[mrblaine]

Another question I thought of is when you have a car on a two post car lift, and there’s several days of work being done, are you supposed to lower the vehicle when your done for the day or is it ok to keep it raised until your done working on it?

I've never seen a car lift that didn't have locks on it. Correctly, you are supposed to raise the car to work height and then lower it to have it rest on the locks. If your lift is equipped, that will be the clunking sound you hear as the car is raised and they engage automatically. To lower it when you are done, you typically have to raise the car off the safety locks, disengage them manually and then hold them disengaged while you lower the car.

 

[mrblaine]

What is a 'man door'?

Man size door in a large vehicle door or normal door on the side of a shop or garage. Looks like a normal door to a residence.

 

[tworley]

Great topic. I am still trying to make my garage work as a working area as well as park a vehicle in it (27'x10). I have always stressed personal protection equipment. Safety glasses(!), appropriate gloves, steel toed boots, long sleeve and pants. Also good house keeping--Keep everything organized and alleviate any tripping hazards (power cords, blocks of wood, etc..). Sometimes when I am working on a project I stop for about 5 min and pick up my work area because it does tend to accumulate various tools, and bits and pieces of whatever I am working on.

, paint the entire inside of the garage or shop in gloss white. The gloss slows down how much dirt sticks, and the white really makes the shop easier to work in.

I plan to paint mine this summer. I have one single LED bulb in there that I am hoping to convert to an 8' LED strip as well as paint the walls white. Right now they are just bare sheetrock and tape.

I threw this up to keep the rif raf away:

 

[mrblaine]

Just bringing it up in case your not aware. While jacking up a vehicle something needs to roll. If the jack isn’t able to roll then the vehicle needs to and vice versa. I wouldn’t recommend butting up chocks up tight to the tire until the vehicle is placed on jack stands. If the floor jack is able to roll freely then it isn’t a concern.

I’m not talking about taking a tire an inch off the ground to remove it but jacking the whole rear or front to get enough room to work under.

I sure hope I made sense by typing this.

You did make a lot of sense but I don't believe folks know just how critical it is. A normal floor jack has to roll or the vehicle has to move or you will jack the lifting pad right out from under what you have it on and drop the load or like has happened to us, hook the edge of the lifting pad, vehicle doesn't roll, jack doesn't roll, and then you fold the support arms that hold the lift pad parallel to the ground and drop the load.

 

[Kathy]

Great thread. Thanks for starting it! :thumbsup: There are hundreds of shop safety tips and best practices and hopefully this thread comes to the top occasionally for future reminders.

I work alone in my garage. One thing my wife and kids are well aware of (because I have blasted each one of them for doing it) is that you DO NOT just barge in to the garage. I have oriented most of my benches, welding table, tools stations, table saw, etc. so that the man door is at least in my peripheral vision. They know that if I ever have my back to the door when I am working on something I don't care how long they have to stand there until I see them.

Regarding fire extinguishers, I've never needed one but you obviously need to have them. I have 4 in my garage plus 1 on my welding cart which I take outside on occasion. As stated above, it's good to actually use one. I've discharged a couple of old ones just for this purpose.

In the event of fire, I keep 2 fire extinguishers by the rear man door. One for me and one for the person I'm yelling to for help! :risas3:

View attachment 74075

I’m assuming you don’t have them enter until you say it’s ok in case you are welding ? Or we have a window on our door, but Dave has welded with me in the garage, I just don’t look. I tell him he needs to keep the dog out of there when he’s welding because he doesn’t know not to look.
I’ve taken fire safety courses years ago when I was running group homes so have a general idea of how an extinguisher operates and discharges. But we need to get some in there ASAP and in a good accessible location.

 

[Kathy]

Our most common inadvertent fire is brake fluid on a rag we just used to clean up a spill with and then proceeded to weld around. The first time it happened surprised me because I didn't realize that brake fluid was flammable. The second most common accidental fires are my clothes. I have my helper watch while I'm under the rig with the caution, "if you see me on fire, don't bump me and make me screw the weld up, just put the fire out".

This is exactly what worries me. We have dirty rags all over and normally they wind up in the burn barrel. But I worry if there are chemicals that should not be mixed or be by flammable items.
And it sounds like you are similar to Dave. I’m sure I would hear it if I messed up what he was doing over saving his body from burning. :shakehead:

 

[Kathy]

I've never seen a car lift that didn't have locks on it. Correctly, you are supposed to raise the car to work height and then lower it to have it rest on the locks. If you lift is equipped, that will be the clunking sound you hear as the car is raised and they engage automatically. To lower it when you are done, you typically have to raise the car off the safety locks, disengage them manually and then hold them disengaged while you lower the car.

Yes his has locks. We just stop raising it after we hear the clunk . To lower, there’s a lever you have to pull down to disengage it, and then at the same time pull down the handle to lower the vehicle. So I’m glad to hear leacingnthe vehicle lifted for days won’t wear out the lift or compromise the hydraulics or anything. When I don’t understand how things work, everything is a question! But I’m learning . Thanks :tongue:

 

[J R]

Another question I thought of is when you have a car on a two post car lift, and there’s several days of work being done, are you supposed to lower the vehicle when your done for the day or is it ok to keep it raised until your done working on it?

I do not have a personal 2 post lift but have worked in a couple of shops that had them. I prefer to bring a vehicle down at the end of the day but wouldn’t loose sleep over leaving them in the air. All the ones I’ve used had locks to keep them from coming down unwanted and also locks to keep the arms from moving far out of place (the arms will still have a little play).

This would sit for acouple of days like this.

I would use these if I needed more support in the ass of a long bed truck or as a back up where ever needed.

https://m.northerntool.com/shop/too...4FmYupA5RgVUm2p_YET84vS2itrCwtpUaAmPmEALw_wcB