Help me understand the Super 35 kit

Ok so, what i get from all of this is that, a good super35 kit is a good as as Dana 44/F8.8, but would it be any different on a 2.5L?

I got the 2.5, 31''s and stock gearing (manual transmition), thinking on going 33s (or 35, i know i got a lot to do before going 35s and is not THAT recommended on a 2.5, but i think it might be worth experimenting on it for fun, it is not a daily driver after all)

I got my hands on a used F8.8 axle complete with its disk bakes and 31spline, and a limited slip, non mounted yet, very good state both of them, and for a total of about $300 usd
I am planning on getting it installed in a few months when i complete the 4'' lift kit so it goes into the shop just once, but now IDK if for my specific case it would be better to just sell back the 8.8 and get a super35, or just stick to the 8.8 as i already got it with its LSD

(P.D: i plan on regearing to 4.56 or 4.88 same time i get the 33s, or if I manage to get all the preparation and reinforcement needed for the 35s before i need to get new tires, 4.88 or 5.13 with the 35s)
 
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2.5 & five speed ... 4.88 gears and 33" tires is the sweet spot.

Jeeping off road.jpg
 
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Ok so, what i get from all of this is that, a good super35 kit is a good as as Dana 44/F8.8, but would it be any different on a 2.5L?

I got the 2.5, 31''s and stock gearing (manual transmition), thinking on going 33s (or 35, i know i got a lot to do before going 35s and is not THAT recommended on a 2.5, but i think it might be worth experimenting on it for fun, it is not a daily driver after all)

I got my hands on a used F8.8 axle complete with its disk bakes and 31spline, and a limited slip, non mounted yet, very good state both of them, and for a total of about $300 usd
I am planning on getting it installed in a few months when i complete the 4'' lift kit so it goes into the shop just once, but now IDK if for my specific case it would be better to just sell back the 8.8 and get a super35, or just stick to the 8.8 as i already got it with its LSD

(P.D: i plan on regearing to 4.56 or 4.88 same time i get the 33s, or if I manage to get all the preparation and reinforcement needed for the 35s before i need to get new tires, 4.88 or 5.13 with the 35s)
It’s apples to oranges comparison. An 8.8 is not lined up with your TCase output. It hangs down lower. It’s an LSD. The S35 would line up, give more clearance, and is a true locker. Of course the 8.8 would be cheaper, but really it’s about what you want to do with the Jeep
 
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Ok so, what i get from all of this is that, a good super35 kit is a good as as Dana 44/F8.8, but would it be any different on a 2.5L?

I got the 2.5, 31''s and stock gearing (manual transmition), thinking on going 33s (or 35, i know i got a lot to do before going 35s and is not THAT recommended on a 2.5, but i think it might be worth experimenting on it for fun, it is not a daily driver after all)

I got my hands on a used F8.8 axle complete with its disk bakes and 31spline, and a limited slip, non mounted yet, very good state both of them, and for a total of about $300 usd
I am planning on getting it installed in a few months when i complete the 4'' lift kit so it goes into the shop just once, but now IDK if for my specific case it would be better to just sell back the 8.8 and get a super35, or just stick to the 8.8 as i already got it with its LSD

(P.D: i plan on regearing to 4.56 or 4.88 same time i get the 33s, or if I manage to get all the preparation and reinforcement needed for the 35s before i need to get new tires, 4.88 or 5.13 with the 35s)
It also sounds like the 8.8 isn't ready to hang under your Jeep, so there's some fabrication that needs to take place also. Correct?
 
It also sounds like the 8.8 isn't ready to hang under your Jeep, so there's some fabrication that needs to take place also. Correct?
I think it can easily be done in two steps:

1) On the 8.8, remove all the metal between the wheels studs.

2) Insert a ‘44 where all that metal used to be.

🙂
 
I wouldn't install an 8.8 under my TJ if it was free. Really. Its pinion shaft is offset to the side of the tcase output shaft which makes the DC joint work harder (in two directions), it's heavy as a pig, and it has reduced ground clearance.
 
I’m still working on my 97 SE making it road worthy. Eventually I’d like to make some upgrades to make it more reliable for trails and the occasional bad route decision. So would a Super 35 upgrade and rear locker be appropriate for a 2.5L I4 with an AX5 manual 5 speed on 31x10.5x15s or should I just leave well enough alone?
 
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I’m still working on my 97 SE making it road worthy. Eventually I’d like to make some upgrades to make it more reliable for trails and the occasional bad route decision. So would a Super 35 upgrade and rear locker be appropriate for a 2.5L I4 with an AX5 manual 5 speed on 31x10.5x15s or should I just leave well enough alone?
I'd call a Super35 overkill for that combo. No reason you couldn't upgrade the diff with a traction adder though if needed.
 
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Thanks. I’m still trying to figure out what I don’t know, so far I’ve discovered it’s mostly everything. :)
Hang in there. Keep reading and asking questions. Lots of great resources around these parts.
 
I’m still working on my 97 SE making it road worthy. Eventually I’d like to make some upgrades to make it more reliable for trails and the occasional bad route decision. So would a Super 35 upgrade and rear locker be appropriate for a 2.5L I4 with an AX5 manual 5 speed on 31x10.5x15s or should I just leave well enough alone?
If you’re eventually getting bigger tires then yes. But if I were you I’d wait till I decided on a final gear ratio for regearing. Do it all at once.
 
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Who the fuck builds a trailer you push around?
Proceeds are the money you make when you sell something.

Precedes means go before.

If I can get a trailer that proceeds me I’m all in.

Usually when I loan it out it comes back worse or broke. 🙄
 
I wouldn't install an 8.8 under my TJ if it was free. Really. Its pinion shaft is offset to the side of the tcase output shaft which makes the DC joint work harder (in two directions), it's heavy as a pig, and it has reduced ground clearance.
To be fair, any TJ with a rear trackbar creates the exact same dual plane misalignment as the suspension cycles and the track bar moves the axle back and forth side to side as well as the up and down motions.

As someone who used to run the Teraflex arms with their hard bushings that tore up control arm mounts, that's one is in your back pocket.