Help removing fender flares

[LONGJP2]

When using a vicegrip, there's a fine line between holding the nutsert so it can't spin, and squeezing it so hard that it holds the bolt tighter. If you get the bolt out, you can tighten the nutsert (with tool), then add antisieze to the bolt. Also, run the bolt all the way through to make sure the end of the nutsert didn't get damaged.
No issues with the plastic nuts, but I haven't had to do the rears yet.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

For the rears it is probably easier to just remove the inner fender instead of fighting it to get to the plastic nuts. From that point on, its no different than the front. Good time to inspect/clean anyway.

 

[Drewwhitetj]

Once you have done it a time or two, removing the flares is not so bad. The rears are absolutely harder than the front due to the plastic nuts inside the plastic inner fender. I prefer to remove them and inspect for rusty nutserts.

View attachment 193037

How do u get the metal alan nut off to make a new hole?

 

[Viking Jeeper]

How do u get the metal alan nut off to make a new hole?

If you are referring to what I have pictured below its not an Allen nut, it is a nutsert that for some reason has a six sided hole. Mine were rusty so I drilled them out with a 9/32 bit and replaced with a new nutsert. You could also just use regular nuts and bolts. On the rears though the liner realy gets in the way.

 

[Bird Dog]

When I replaced my flares, I replaced all my plastic ones with aluminum nutserts and stainless steel bolts (10-24 I think). Bought a nutsert driver and it worked like a charm.

 

[roverhi]

When I replaced my flares, I replaced all my plastic ones with aluminum nutserts and stainless steel bolts (10-24 I think). Bought a nutsert driver and it worked like a charm.

Hope you used Lanocane, TefGel or some other insulator on the SS fastener threads. The SS will weld itself through dissimilar metal corrosion to the aluminum NutSerts in short order without an insulator.