Help with the SwayLOC

JMT said:
Are the arms on the SwayLoc supposed to be parallel so the links are the same length? I’m assuming so since there are no splines and it is what it is, but my links are 9.25” and 10” respectively nkw after second adjustment.

Reason I ask is on two separate wheeling trips I disconnected at the trailhead and afterward my passenger side swaybar bracket was bent out toward the passenger tire. Granted, one of those trips I didn’t get out after a few minutes to make sure it disconnected, but it was of course later on on the day.

So I took both links off and made sure they were correct length (no binding at ride height on flat ground) and actually had to shorten one side and then put it back on and then check the other side and actually shorten it a little bit to get them just right. But now I’ve done this twice and both times it bent that bracket.
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The length doesn't matter. What matters is you set the link length with the rig on level ground side to side and grow the links to the swaybar mounts. If you are bending the sway bar link mounts on the axle, then you are not making sure it is disconnected before getting into too much articulation. Or you have a sticking latch which you need to check and it likely going to be from trying to set links by dimension rather than how far the arms are from the link mounts.
 
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mrblaine said:
The length doesn't matter. What matters is you set the link length with the rig on level ground side to side and grow the links to the swaybar mounts. If you are bending the sway bar link mounts on the axle, then you are not making sure it is disconnected before getting into too much articulation. Or you have a sticking latch which you need to check and it likely going to be from trying to set links by dimension rather than how far the arms are from the link mounts.
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Ok, well, I set them at ride height on level ground twice, so next time I go off-road I’ll unlatch and drive a few yards till it flexes a bit and check. Should probably do that every time anyway.

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JMT said:
Ok, well, I set them at ride height on level ground twice, so next time I go off-road I’ll unlatch and drive a few yards till it flexes a bit and check. Should probably do that every time anyway.
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Definitely make sure it is disengaging all the way. You can hear click usually when it does. I will rock the jeep a bit with the roll bar to get it disconnected which usually doesn't take much if I'm on level ground.

This excerpt is from the swayloc install instructions and mentions the issue you are having.

From the Operating the SwayLOCTM with the Manual Lever section.

If the latch is not loaded with the Jeep being slightly twisted, then the latch will clunk as it moves to the rear and disengages. IF the latch does not move once the arm is flipped to the rear, then there is most likely pressure on the latch, keeping it engaged. Simply rocking the Jeep side to side may result in enough movement to lessen the force on the latch and allow it to clunk open. If the Jeep is parked with the front axle slightly twisted to the frame, then you may need to drive for a short distance before it will unlatch. Please listen for the clunk or stop to verify that it is disengaged before you force the Jeep to flex, as failure to disconnect may result in failure, most likely to the linkage attachment to the axle brackets.

NOTE: Forcing the Jeep to articulate with the SwayLOCTM engaged may result in component failure, please ensure that when you disengage the latch, that it does in fact disengage. This is typically determined by listening for the “clunk” as it moves to the extent of travel.
 

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mrblaine said:
Yes, but by dimension or the length that fit?
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Length that fit. I wasn’t worried about any difference in length bc I was familiar with the AR spline rolling process and knew they were commonly slightly off and it didn’t affect function, so while there aren’t splines, the bar may have been designed where the arms wouldn’t be perfectly parallel. That was the main thing I wanted to discover, but I think my problem is the disengagement. I listened for the click the first time I took it off-road (from inside the rig), but didn’t hear it. I got out to check and it was disengaged. Since then I didn’t bother getting out and checking. I’ll rock it from side to side from now on and make sure before hitting the trail. Thanks.

I’ll be welding on your sway bar brackets soon, so The old ones will just be cut off. 🙂 For now I just beat it back into submission.
 
JMT said:
I’ll be welding on your sway bar brackets soon, so The old ones will just be cut off. 🙂 For now I just beat it back into submission.
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The old ones set the height and location of the new ones so you'll need to pay attention. I'd also suggest that you double them up since you seem to have a propensity to test things past the design limit.

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JMT said:
That was the main thing I wanted to discover, but I think my problem is the disengagement. I listened for the click the first time I took it off-road (from inside the rig), but didn’t hear it.
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A waterproof DC limit switch with a led light(s) inside vehicle on console would be a fairly easy add-on to tell when it was engaged or disengaged.
 
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Finally got around to working on installing the SwayLoc I got during the Quadratec sale & wait.

Do I need to check my work here and get bar dead on flush, or is this normal/acceptable?

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JpZombie said:
Finally got around to working on installing the SwayLoc I got during the Quadratec sale & wait.

Do I need to check my work here and get bar dead on flush, or is this normal/acceptable?

View attachment 481562

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One mine, one or both of the sides was supposed to be just under flush.

If I recall correctly, the directions clearly talked about it. Did you check them?
 
Moglocker said:
Did you get it on?
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Haven’t made it back out to the shop yet. My almost 3 year old is sick/has a cold, so I’ve been trying to keep him chill while also trying to keep his almost 2 year old brother from destroying the house and/or killing himself in the mean time 🫤
 
JpZombie said:
Haven’t made it back out to the shop yet. My almost 3 year old is sick/has a cold, so I’ve been trying to keep him chill while also trying to keep his almost 2 year old brother from destroying the house and/or killing himself in the mean time 🫤
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If there's no more room to get the bar into the arms, there's no more room. The key is getting the arms to be snug enough on the bar where the clamping force of the two bolts is sufficient. From your picture, it looks like you're there. Unless there's gaps you can close off between the frame and arms - I think you're good.
 
Wonder how much it would cost to ship one. I still have mine I'm not installing any time soon it seems.
 
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