Host F550 4X4 Motorhome Quad Slide 330

I got the motorhome winterized & while I was draining the water tank & hot water heater I fixed my headlights. The bulb for the center section had fallen out.


And then I changed the color of the DRL from White

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To Amber

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Not really much of an update as of yet but I'd started looking for a shop that would work on the engine and this was where I started to run into issues. Most of the shops I contacted said that they couldn't fit my 35' rig into their shop. Finally found a shop in Spokane called Specialized Diesel NW that was willing to work on it. To do the head gaskets properly you have one of two options.
1) Pull the cab - Not possible on my rig due to the motorhome conversion.
2) Pull the engine and do the work on a engine stand.

The ROUGH part is the cost. While I'd hoped to do this work myself I finally decided that it was a fools errand and figured I'd hand the job off to others. Right now the rough estimate is $11,500 to $12,000 plus tax which is 8.5% I think in the Spokane area. Here's the email I got from the shop.


You will receive a complete itemized list of everything once the job is completed, but here are some of the items that we usually replace on a job like this.



-Heads get completely rebuilt, pressure checked, surfaced, etc. We install Manton HD Valve springs and pushrods on all 6.4's due to the excessive back pressure created by the dual turbo design.

-ARP head studs with MaxxForce 7 gaskets.

-New updated rocker arms and bridges


-New Ford oil cooler

-All new gaskets for all parts that are disassembled, replaced, etc.

-Engine oil and filter change, fuel filters, cooling system flush.

-Updated HPFP harness/gasket.

-All new fuel injector lines, updated rail pressure sensor

-Thermostats get replaced, as well as all cooling system o-rings in radiator hoses, tubes, etc. If the upper and lower radiator hoses haven't been upgraded to the new version, we'll install those as well.

-Belts and tensioners


-Glow plugs will be tested and replaced if needed.

The plan is to get it into the shop sometime next month or ASAP they have time and get this fixed so I can have a few trial runs under my belt with it prior to the trip to Moab in June.
 
Not really much of an update as of yet but I'd started looking for a shop that would work on the engine and this was where I started to run into issues. Most of the shops I contacted said that they couldn't fit my 35' rig into their shop. Finally found a shop in Spokane called Specialized Diesel NW that was willing to work on it. To do the head gaskets properly you have one of two options.
1) Pull the cab - Not possible on my rig due to the motorhome conversion.
2) Pull the engine and do the work on a engine stand.

The ROUGH part is the cost. While I'd hoped to do this work myself I finally decided that it was a fools errand and figured I'd hand the job off to others. Right now the rough estimate is $11,500 to $12,000 plus tax which is 8.5% I think in the Spokane area. Here's the email I got from the shop.


You will receive a complete itemized list of everything once the job is completed, but here are some of the items that we usually replace on a job like this.



-Heads get completely rebuilt, pressure checked, surfaced, etc. We install Manton HD Valve springs and pushrods on all 6.4's due to the excessive back pressure created by the dual turbo design.

-ARP head studs with MaxxForce 7 gaskets.

-New updated rocker arms and bridges


-New Ford oil cooler

-All new gaskets for all parts that are disassembled, replaced, etc.

-Engine oil and filter change, fuel filters, cooling system flush.

-Updated HPFP harness/gasket.

-All new fuel injector lines, updated rail pressure sensor

-Thermostats get replaced, as well as all cooling system o-rings in radiator hoses, tubes, etc. If the upper and lower radiator hoses haven't been upgraded to the new version, we'll install those as well.

-Belts and tensioners


-Glow plugs will be tested and replaced if needed.

The plan is to get it into the shop sometime next month or ASAP they have time and get this fixed so I can have a few trial runs under my belt with it prior to the trip to Moab in June.

EDIT: forgot you had a 6.4, you could still talk to them though

Did you talk to these guys? They are in Arlington

https://powerstrokecustoms.com/

They leave the cab on and don't pull the engine.

 
I thought this was just a timing cover issue? What makes you think its a head issue after your initial test?
 
EDIT: forgot you had a 6.4, you could still talk to them though

Did you talk to these guys? They are in Arlington

https://powerstrokecustoms.com/

They leave the cab on and don't pull the engine.


Yep they don't have the room or aren't interested. They just said they couldn't do it. And the 6.0 is different from the 6.4. From all the comments online ME trying to do the heads with the cab on wasn't a great idea. The risk of damaging the head gaskets during reassembly was a major risk. While I don't want to have to spend the money I don't see a way around it.

I thought this was just a timing cover issue? What makes you think its a head issue after your initial test?

After further investigation the head gaskets were still the final diagnoses. I was hoping it was the front cover and had some who suggested it could be but the head gaskets seem to ne the more likely fault.
 
Hindsight says I should have had a RV bay in my garage but I don't and I also wish I'd had my driveway poured at least 25' from the garage towards the house. That would have given me a place to roll a engine hoist around. But it is what it is.

EDIT: I knew I was taking a chance buying this rig with the 6.4. Finger crossed that once it's repaired I won't have any other issues with it. Believe me I wish I was spending the money on other things.
 
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Not really much of an update as of yet but I'd started looking for a shop that would work on the engine and this was where I started to run into issues. Most of the shops I contacted said that they couldn't fit my 35' rig into their shop. Finally found a shop in Spokane called Specialized Diesel NW that was willing to work on it. To do the head gaskets properly you have one of two options.
1) Pull the cab - Not possible on my rig due to the motorhome conversion.
2) Pull the engine and do the work on a engine stand.

The ROUGH part is the cost. While I'd hoped to do this work myself I finally decided that it was a fools errand and figured I'd hand the job off to others. Right now the rough estimate is $11,500 to $12,000 plus tax which is 8.5% I think in the Spokane area. Here's the email I got from the shop.


You will receive a complete itemized list of everything once the job is completed, but here are some of the items that we usually replace on a job like this.



-Heads get completely rebuilt, pressure checked, surfaced, etc. We install Manton HD Valve springs and pushrods on all 6.4's due to the excessive back pressure created by the dual turbo design.

-ARP head studs with MaxxForce 7 gaskets.

-New updated rocker arms and bridges


-New Ford oil cooler

-All new gaskets for all parts that are disassembled, replaced, etc.

-Engine oil and filter change, fuel filters, cooling system flush.

-Updated HPFP harness/gasket.

-All new fuel injector lines, updated rail pressure sensor

-Thermostats get replaced, as well as all cooling system o-rings in radiator hoses, tubes, etc. If the upper and lower radiator hoses haven't been upgraded to the new version, we'll install those as well.

-Belts and tensioners


-Glow plugs will be tested and replaced if needed.

The plan is to get it into the shop sometime next month or ASAP they have time and get this fixed so I can have a few trial runs under my belt with it prior to the trip to Moab in June.

damn, thats some list. Yes, the main issue is trying to find a shop to work on a coach this big. Mine is only 32', but trying to find a dealer to work on, is a bitch. Even when Ford had a recall, to upgrade the computers, no shop would touch it because they said if the thing threw a code after the upgrade, it would be stuck in there shop, until it could be repaired and no one wanted to deal with it?

So basically, your only choice is a commercial truck repair shop, but then the coach isn't big enough for them
 
Hindsight says I should have had a RV bay in my garage but I don't and I also wish I'd had my driveway poured at least 25' from the garage towards the house. That would have given me a place to roll a engine hoist around. But it is what it is.

EDIT: I knew I was taking a chance buying this rig with the 6.4. Finger crossed that once it's repaired I won't have any other issues with it. Believe me I wish I was spending the money on other things.

Man, that is disappointing Rick. I expect that, in addition to the money, you also don't love having other folks work on your stuff. I'm certainly that way, at this point. But sometimes, it has to be.
 
Man, that is disappointing Rick. I expect that, in addition to the money, you also don't love having other folks work on your stuff. I'm certainly that way, at this point. But sometimes, it has to be.

If I had the spot to work on it I'd rather do it myself. Talking with this shop and then also talking with people who have had them do repairs I feel OK with it.
And the fact that they are replacing items that I hadn't thought about before makes me feel better.
They're also going to install the Air Dog fuel pump and filters plus the BD Diesel up-pipes and manifolds I already have.

It'll be nice to have it fixed and be able to enjoy.

damn, thats some list. Yes, the main issue is trying to find a shop to work on a coach this big. Mine is only 32', but trying to find a dealer to work on, is a bitch. Even when Ford had a recall, to upgrade the computers, no shop would touch it because they said if the thing threw a code after the upgrade, it would be stuck in there shop, until it could be repaired and no one wanted to deal with it?

So basically, your only choice is a commercial truck repair shop, but then the coach isn't big enough for them

I've been reading this from a lot of the RV forums. Most dealers won't do the recalls.
 
Had one person try telling me I was in the Cummins swap range with that price. Thankfully another member jumped in and said his was in the $40k range.
Part of the price is due to it taking up 2 bays in the shop. So I'm tying up space.
 
When I'd started looking at having a shop do this for me I'd set the limit I was willing to pay @ $10K. But I decided that the $2K more was worth it for the lack of headache for me. I do wish that the shop was closer to me but the shops near me didn't have the space for my size of rig.
I'll be asking more questions and see what else I might want to have replaced when the time comes since they'll be that deep into the engine.
 
Buddy of mine is a 6.4 guy. He loves them, but says the weak point is the heads themselves. They crack, and the valve springs are not up to much of a tune. He’s big on aftermarket heads. He has a hot rod F250 and a tow pig F450 that he’s built engines for. Last one he built was like 6-8k in just parts. But that was a full machine job on the block and all new everything. No labor.
 
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Buddy of mine is a 6.4 guy. He loves them, but says the weak point is the heads themselves. They crack, and the valve springs are not up to much of a tune. He’s big on aftermarket heads. He has a hot rod F250 and a tow pig F450 that he’s built engines for. Last one he built was like 6-8k in just parts. But that was a full machine job on the block and all new everything. No labor.

I'd heard about the heads being an issue also and am waiting for a response from the shop as to if I should just plan on some new heads. But might just wait until they get the engine out and see. Heck with only 28K on the damn thing I'd hope the heads would be OK.

Other than custom 0-ring heads does anyone make a improved 6.4 head? I'm not trying for extra power or turning it up I just want the thing to be reliable.
 
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Your misfortune is why I bought a gasser. I would love a Super-C but I can't work on that. I can work on a Workhorse chassis.
 
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Your misfortune is why I bought a gasser. I would love a Super-C but I can't work on that. I can work on a Workhorse chassis.

I worked as a heavy line mechanic for a RV dealership and I can't tell you the number of gaspots I either had to install a new engine or that had major issues. I won't have a gas powered RV after that. I knew I was taking a chance on this rig with the known 6.4 issues and figured that into my offer price. Even after spending this to have it repaired I'll only be about $6-8K over what it's valued at by NADA or KBB. And since these are rare rigs they seem to sell pretty quickly.
I'd guess I could sell mine for $130K to $135K once it's repaired so I'd break even at that point if not making a little. Not that I plan on selling it.
Had a couple people ask me if I'd sell it as it sits and I told them sure just make me a reasonable offer.

It's not that I can't work on it but that I don't have a spot right now that would allow me to. So even if it was a gas chassis I'd more than likely still have to farm out the work.
 
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I'd heard about the heads being an issue also and am waiting for a response from the shop as to if I should just plan on some new heads. But might just wait until they get the engine out and see. Heck with only 28K on the damn thing I'd hope the heads would be OK.

Other than custom 0-ring heads does anyone make a improved 6.4 head? I'm not trying for extra power or turning it up I just want the thing to be reliable.

He has Kill Devil Diesel heads on both trucks. Alloy on the hot rod, iron on the tow rig. Dunno if there are other options but he’s been pleased with both sets.
 
I worked as a heavy line mechanic for a RV dealership and I can't tell you the number of gaspots I either had to install a new engine or that had major issues. I won't have a gas powered RV after that. I knew I was taking a chance on this rig with the known 6.4 issues and figured that into my offer price. Even after spending this to have it repaired I'll only be about $6-8K over what it's valued at by NADA or KBB. And since these are rare rigs they seem to sell pretty quickly.
I'd guess I could sell mine for $130K to $135K once it's repaired so I'd break even at that point if not making a little. Not that I plan on selling it.
Had a couple people ask me if I'd sell it as it sits and I told them sure just make me a reasonable offer.

It's not that I can't work on it but that I don't have a spot right now that would allow me to. So even if it was a gas chassis I'd more than likely still have to farm out the work.

To each his own. My GM engine and Alison transmission hum right along on the interstate. I'm in no hurry, so when I hit the hills and slow down to 55 mph, I just enjoy the scenery. The 6 mpg is not an issue, if it were, I would not own a MH.
 
He has Kill Devil Diesel heads on both trucks. Alloy on the hot rod, iron on the tow rig. Dunno if there are other options but he’s been pleased with both sets.

The shop I'm talking with I guess hasn't had a good relationship with KDD. Thanks.

To each his own. My GM engine and Alison transmission hum right along on the interstate. I'm in no hurry, so when I hit the hills and slow down to 55 mph, I just enjoy the scenery. The 6 mpg is not an issue, if it were, I would not own a MH.

It wasn't an attack on you or your choice I'm just relating to you my experience and reasons. Hope you never have major issues with it. I don't know what you're hauling or where but out here in the PNW the longer grades is what killed most of those engines. Not saying diesel engines don't/can't have issues but they are less likely to.

I got 6MPG out of my diesel pusher MH and swore I'd never do it again.
 
No offense taken. I started my camping in the PNW in a 72 VW camper van. I loved going up the gorge and camping out alongside the Columbia River.

In a gasser you have to take it slow and easy in the mountains. A couple years ago I drove I-70 over Loveland Pass in CO. 45-50mph all the to the top.

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