Engines
First thing to consider is what motor and transmission do you want to run. Definitely go into this project knowing what you want out of it, daily driver, rock crawler, mud rig, overlander, etc. This will help you narrow down what engine and trans combo you should go with. There are a few things to keep in mind when deciding an engine. There are 2 generation of LS engines, gen 3 and 4. And there is also the Gen 5 LT direct injection engines which I want to touch on as well since ill be working on one soon I hope. Gen 3 engines also come in drive by wire and drive by cable. There are ways to convert a DBW to DBC but that is beyond the scope of this write up. You ideally will want a DBC setup since it is easier to adapt the universal throttle cable to a Jeep pedal and a LS throttle than it is to mount a DBW chevy pedal to the Jeep. All gen 4 engines are DBW but I do not know anything about converting them to DBC but I think it is possible. Gen 5 engines absolutly require the use of a DBW setup, and as of right now no one has converted these engines to DBC. There are plenty of people who do LS TJ swaps with DBW and eventually ill update this with how to do so when I try this my self.
Engine Mounts
I have only used the Novak weld on mounts but have done tons of research on different manufacturers as well. I went Novak because at the time, they were the only one advertising that you do not need a suspension lift or body lift to use their mounts and that appealed to me since I was keeping my Jeep somewhat stock in that regard. But there are certainly a lot of other companies that make quality mounts. I have my gripes with the Novak mounts, but they work and they do have engine mounting plates for Gen 5 engines that use their frame side mounts.
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With the Novak mounts, in their instructions they said to cut some of the pinch welds at the trans opening. I do not think I had to with a Jeep manual using a Jeep bellhouse, but would likely had to with a larger auto trans and it looks to be needed for the Quick Draw Brand bellhouse that is closer is size to a GM bellhouse. You can see marked in red what I had to cut. I then put a coat of seam sealer over top since it cut into the tub and then painted over top.
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A note about the steering shaft. The Novak weld one mounts require cutting the steering shaft support mount off and they supply a new bracket that relocates it and spaces it away from the engine a little bit. I messed up with placement of engine and it was too close to the driver side so I had to REALLY space the steering shaft away. Supposedly the Holley mounts do not require relocacting the steering shaft support.
I have also been looking into the Holley mounts for my next Gen 5 project so stay tuned and ill document more on the Gen 5 mounts. They are a bolt on, then weld on mount. The nice thing is they use I believe a factory F-body LS1 engine isolator for gen 3 and 4 engines that again can be picked up at a local autoparts store. The gen 5 engines uses the same frame side mount but a slightly different isolator mount that is based on the LS1 mount. Just follow the directions and things will turn out fine.
https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/engine-mounts/mmtj-g/
https://www.holley.com/products/eng...and_crossmembers/engine_mounts/parts/VK090181
https://davescustomsunlimited.com/jeep-tj-ls-series-and-gen-iii-conversion-engine-mounts/
Engine Accessories
For this one it is very simple. Stock truck accessories work great except for the AC. You probably got a $500 truck motor and what came on that will work great. With the AC (if you want it) it will have to be moved up high or you will need to notch the frame. I had both a plain truck accessory setup and a Trail Blazer SS setup which is the same other than it uses a different pump. I am working on a custom bracket that moves the PS pump higher since mine was acting as a bump stop while at the dunes but will allow more off the shelf parts like PS hoses.
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Oil Pans
This is also very simple. You can be cheap and use the truck pan your motor likely came with. Only draw back is it is deeper than the other pans out there. F-body has also been known to work and the Holley pans are also good (but expensive options). I personally like the Hummer H3 5.3 oil pan which is commonly advertised as the muscle car oil pan. Price point is reasonable, easily able to source, sump is not very long and also half the depth of the truck pan and the edges of the sump are very round to help with exhaust routing. First picture is the H3 pan, second picture is comparing the truck pan to a Holley 301-2 pan.
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