Cost
I cannot tell you what your cost is since every build is different. I did mine for about $6000 if you exclude all the mistakes and changes I made midway through. Mine had all new engine accessories, rebuilt 5.3, and I paid for some good quality parts. I could have skimped on a lot and reduced cost. Keep in mind I bought 80% of the parts before inflation hit hard in late 2020. I have convinced my self I can do this for less than $2500 but will be janky for sure and I may try this out one day on a basket case TJ I have lying around.
Below is a table of what I would consider mandatory but you could probably price shop or omit things. PRICES MAY NOT BE ACCURATE, I cannot constantly verify this info since things change so much any more. This also does not include all shipping and taxes. I did not add any price for the engine it self. I can get a running 5.3 with a harness all day for $500 or less, but I hear its more like $1000-1500 out west. Or you may want to rebuild with all new accessories. I would also add another $500-1000 to account for extra bits you need to purchase like hose clamps, hardware, fittings, etc. The small stuff adds up quicker than you think.
Table below is the engine mount options I know of, you only need to pick one. I personally used the Novak Weld-on mounts and they work, but I like the idea of the Holley mounts and will likely try that out for my next personal swap. Remember 6 cylinder frames can use bolt-on mounts or weld-on mounts. 4 cylinder frames require weld-on mounts..
Below is the cost of using the Quick Draw Brand adapter with your own supplied transmission. I personally used a brand new AX15 that cost me about $2000 delivered to my house. Your cost on that may vary.
And one more major cost to consider is the wiring. There are 3 options to consider, the purchased standalone and new standalone you will need to have the PCMs tuned to remove the VATS which a lot of people will charge anywhere from $100 to $150 to do such a service. There is supposedly also a way to unlock the PCM for free, but it must be from a running truck. I think how it works is you need to start the engine in the vehicle then disconnect the PCM connectors while it is running.
| Holley Terminator | Summit | Holley | $ 1,249.95 | There are many part numbers that depend on what features you engine may have so keep that in mind when ordering a Term X |
| Standalone Harness | | | $ 600.00 | Plenty of options, but they are all around the $600-800 range |
| DIY Standalone Harness | | | $ 180.00 | Can be done cheaper, this is using a quality pre-made fuse box and accounting for loom, tape, and other materials. |
Things to Consider
First one is gearing. The LS makes way more torque and power than the original engine and you just do not need the same numerically higher gears like you do with the original engine to out the power to the ground. For example, I am on 31s with an AX15 and started with 3.08 gears for about a year then went to 3.73 gears. I did not notice any real increase in useable power and it was just way louder at highway speeds and more fuel consumption. I think the AX15 OD of .79 is just too short for V8s but I feel as if a 6L80 can use the same tire and gears and would be ideal since its 6th gear is 0.67 and will drop the RPMs at highway speed to a more appropriate RPM. So keep all this in mind when choosing your components like transmissions, gears, tires, etc.
Mounting the PCM was somewhat of a struggle for me since I liked everything clean. When I had the terminator X, I mounted it behind the glove box, but had to remove the pocket of the glove box so it was useless. When I went to a stock Gen 3 PCM, I mounted it below the brake booster and machined a plate that replaced the tray that was in there so it could fit a PCM mount. It is tight in there, but it does fit.
You are likely going to have to use a SYE or tear open the transfercase if sticking with a NP231J, so just plan and budget to rebuild it. I have heard lots of people say its not strong enough, and maybe that true if you used it differently than me. I am not hardcore rock crawling, I play in the sand and trails and have not had that fail. I have had other things fail.
So with that said, plan to upgrade your drivetrain. I destroyed my stock Dana 35 bearings, destroyed a 175k mile NV3550, one U-joint on my new rear drive shaft (might have been more user setup error, not the part it self), and a transmission mount. All of this in 2-1/2 years, so upgrade accordingly.
You will certainly need a cable shifter for the transfercase since in most cases the TC is moved from its stock location.
Weight of an iron block LS is very close to a Jeep 4.0 so no need to worry about suspension mods to support an LS. An aluminum block engine will take off 100lbs. Depending on where you put it, the engine will sit behind the front axle entirely so congrats its now in the league of mid engine super cars like Ferrarris, Lamborghinis, C8s, Mclarens, and the legendary 88 Fiero with 95k miles and a case of PBR in the passenger seat.
I am not a mechanic and do not have a big space to work in. I have a little more tools than the average home garage and I had no wiring experience before this swap. I was able to require everything and do a frame off restoration with my hand tools, a welder, and a engine hoist. Nothing special.
Novak is a huge wealth of knowledge on this subject and I highly recommend you look into them. However they are still trying to sell their products so keep that in mind when reading their resources. Some of the stuff is easily sourced elsewhere for less like clutches, and flywheel bolts, but they sell high quality adapters that you should consider.
Now for fuel mileage, again to reiterate the specs. Stock 5.3 with headers, TBSS intake manifold, 92mm Throttle body, AX15, 3.73 gears, 31in tires and a 2in lift. I get on average with half country highway/freeway, half city I get 16.5mpg in the summer and 14.5mpg in winter. I have gotten 18mpg often on long road trips, and have gotten 20mpg once. I think it could be better with a better highway cruising RPM.
Conclusion
Hopefully this should help. I want to make a more thorough DIY on LS swapping these, and ill be working on videos when I get closer to doing my Gen 5 5.3 swap on my LJ. My first swap took me 6 months of planning and research before its first drive, and probably another 6 months after refining everything. This second swap is taking longer, since its a customer funded swap and I am only going as fast as they send me parts money. Was it worth it? Yes, but I wish I did it a bit differently like going with a different engine and trans setup to satisfy my personal goals with it. I hope to add some Youtube videos in the post below in the future. Good luck with your swaps!