How to plumb compressed air?

matkal

matkal

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Any good articles/threads out there on plumbing an air compressor and running air lines in a garage?

Preferably something simple, I only need two drops along a straight line. The middle is easy, I’m just unclear on the beginning (compressor) and ends and in-line accessories(?) like valves, regulators, separators, driers, etc.

I’m pretty sure I want to go with copper.
 
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matkal said:
Any good articles/threads out there on plumbing an air compressor and running air lines in a garage?

Preferably something simple, I only need two drops along a straight line. The middle is easy, I’m just unclear on the beginning (compressor) and ends and in-line accessories(?) like valves, regulators, separators, driers, etc.

I’m pretty sure I want to go with copper.
Click to expand...

I plumbed all of the airlines in our 40K square foot cabinet shop last year - two extra-big-ass Kaeser screw compressors, two line dryers, multiple coalescing filters, and somewhere around fifty valved drops with various connectors and FRLs, amongst other stuff - so I'm reasonably sure that I'm qualified to answer your questions...BUT...you need to ask said questions, and be specific. I'll tell you this, though: you don't want copper. You can run some NICE air lines for the cost of copper, and be way better off in the end. So, details of the facility, please? Intended usage, types and number of appliances, etc, will be very helpful.
 
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Sundowner said:
I plumbed all of the airlines in our 40K square foot cabinet shop last year - two extra-big-ass Kaeser screw compressors, two line dryers, multiple coalescing filters, and somewhere around fifty valved drops with various connectors and FRLs, amongst other stuff - so I'm reasonably sure that I'm qualified to answer your questions...BUT...you need to ask said questions, and be specific. I'll tell you this, though: you don't want copper. You can run some NICE air lines for the cost of copper, and be way better off in the end. So, details of the facility, please? Intended usage, types and number of appliances, etc, will be very helpful.
Click to expand...

Wow, that sounds like an amazing system! I don’t need anything remotely close to that, I’ve got 2/3 of a 30x40 pole building and as I said, I’ve got a short main run (26’) along the ceiling and two drops.

The most demanding task will be very limited painting, mostly running an impact wrench and a die grinder. Maybe a small sandblaster at some point.

What alternatives to copper would you suggest? Black pipe is out for me and I looked into max line(?) and the smallest kit is 100’.
 
If you want something cheap and easy to use, you can use PEX. PEX isn't rated for compressed air though, but I (and the internet) know many that use it and have never had an issue. Never use PVC though as it can shatter and send tiny pieces everywhere at high speeds. For a bit more money you could also use PEX-AL-PEX.

For my garage, I ran 3/4 PEX to 1/2 distribution blocks that have standard 1/4 outlets. I have a separate run to a filter/desiccant drier/filter setup for painting or sandblasting.
 
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I've also seen the recommendations to not use PVC but I have a buddy who plumbed his auto shop with PVC years ago and never had a problem.
 
After doing some research I've definitely decided on copper. The Rapid Air products are very nice but cost prohibitive for my application and I can buy copper locally.

If I'm using 3/4 for my main run then stepping down to 1/2 for my drops will using 3/8 regulators, separators, etc. at the ends of the drops be ok or will it reduce the performance?
 
As I said: I wouldn't use copper...at least not unless I was running a gas system that required it. The IR system is far superior for a home shop, and not cost-prohibitive for home usage. 3/4" or 20mm will be fine for everything that you have, and you'll have no more than a handful of fittings. You'll need a good line dryer for a blaster or for painting, but if you're already concerned about the costs of the IR system, you might want to save your pennies before starting: decent driers are not cheap, and unless you run a HUGE filter you can't even get close to their performance...so you'll be playing with wet media and fisheyes from there on out, especially with a copper line system. Be sure to flex-couple your compressor. Best of luck.
 
Sundowner said:
As I said: I wouldn't use copper...at least not unless I was running a gas system that required it. The IR system is far superior for a home shop, and not cost-prohibitive for home usage. 3/4" or 20mm will be fine for everything that you have, and you'll have no more than a handful of fittings. You'll need a good line dryer for a blaster or for painting, but if you're already concerned about the costs of the IR system, you might want to save your pennies before starting: decent driers are not cheap, and unless you run a HUGE filter you can't even get close to their performance...so you'll be playing with wet media and fisheyes from there on out, especially with a copper line system. Be sure to flex-couple your compressor. Best of luck.
Click to expand...
Excuse my ignorance but I’m not familiar with the “IR system”. Please elaborate.
 
Sundowner said:
As I said: I wouldn't use copper...at least not unless I was running a gas system that required it. The IR system is far superior for a home shop, and not cost-prohibitive for home usage. 3/4" or 20mm will be fine for everything that you have, and you'll have no more than a handful of fittings. You'll need a good line dryer for a blaster or for painting, but if you're already concerned about the costs of the IR system, you might want to save your pennies before starting: decent driers are not cheap, and unless you run a HUGE filter you can't even get close to their performance...so you'll be playing with wet media and fisheyes from there on out, especially with a copper line system. Be sure to flex-couple your compressor. Best of luck.
Click to expand...
I’m sure it’s the best stuff in the world but I can’t run down to the hardware store and get the shit. Thank you anyway.
 
@Sundowner
Do you have any experience and/or input with airline products from this company?

https://www.rapidairproducts.com/
I picked up a cigar box of their 3/4” fittings a while back at an estate sale.
Just something I was kicking around using so I’m not always rolling out the air hose.
 
jgaz said:
@Sundowner
Do you have any experience and/or input with airline products from this company?

https://www.rapidairproducts.com/
I picked up a cigar box of their 3/4” fittings a while back at an estate sale.
Just something I was kicking around using so I’m not always rolling out the air hose.
Click to expand...

I've used it before, and it's okay; I actually keep a roll of the flexible line in stock at the shop for times when I need to run or re-route a line and I don't want to use up a bunch of fittings to turn a corner or offset through a wall, etc. It is not acceptable for straight runs, however, without a LOT of support: it WILL sag and it WILL make you hate yourself. Needless to say, suspended lines are out of the question... which is also true for any other line that's below 25mm/1" in diameter. If you're just tacking it to a wall...no big deal.

IR = Ingersoll Rand. Available through any of their locations or dealers. For home use, 20mm is the cat's meow; what little extra you spend in line cost and fitting cost you gain in being done in a couple of hours, and in being able to disassemble and repair on the fly.
 
Mike the Silver TJ said:
I've also seen the recommendations to not use PVC but I have a buddy who plumbed his auto shop with PVC years ago and never had a problem.
Click to expand...
PVC can be used but it needs to be schedule 80 and it really needs to be threaded
but it needs to be grounded as PVC really picks up the static
 
Twopoint said:
PVC can be used but it needs to be schedule 80 and it really needs to be threaded
but it needs to be grounded as PVC really picks up the static
Click to expand...

I don't usually suggest that material because of the risk of fatigue...and because of the expense and labor (mostly relating to threading). PEX is a better option: crimp, hang, and go on with your life. Still...it takes a great deal of hanging; I got rid of all of it at the shop...and the PVC, too: people were tired of it exploding.
 
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Sundowner said:
I don't usually suggest that material because of the risk of fatigue...and because of the expense and labor (mostly relating to threading). PEX is a better option: crimp, hang, and go on with your life. Still...it takes a great deal of hanging; I got rid of all of it at the shop...and the PVC, too: people were tired of it exploding.
Click to expand...
lol, I have heard of shed 40 exploding, but never sched 80. as for the threading it is easily done by hand.
but to be honest, all air systems were I have ever installed were either black pipe or galvanized.
 
Twopoint said:
lol, I have heard of shed 40 exploding, but never sched 80. as for the threading it is easily done by hand.
but to be honest, all air systems were I have ever installed were either black pipe or galvanized.
Click to expand...

The difference between 40 and 80 is that 80 explodes when impacted, and 40 explodes on its own.

I've never liked threading 80; it's not difficult...but I don't like threaded joints on air systems at all, regardless of material: too many chances for something to not seal and require a lot of repair work. I don't like brazed joints, either, but they're required on some systems; for me, twist-lock compression is where it's at...and I don't say that in a vacuum, from only using company money. I'm plumbing my personal shop in the same system that I use at work, albeit in a size more suitable to my needs than the 40mm stuff I use during the day.
 
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