Jeep Jeffrey

[Christian.mers]

I learned that the Pressure was adjusted all the way to the Minimum and then the springs over compensate and put it to the proper adjustment.

My grandpa just got a new separator plate for his VB. Instead of being stock thickness it’s about .125in. And not like .025 like his normally is (not an accurate number as I cannot remember what the number stock thickness was)

It is wild that it’s all just screws holding everything together and expected not to fail

Edit: The Separator plate isn’t for a jeep, it’s his truck. His separator plate has cracked twice and he wasn’t wanting to deal with it again

 

[hear]

The ATSG manual does have it correct (for at least the throttle valve and sleeve. I annotated mine to indicate what the FSM has, and then I even drew that wrong!

 

[Christian.mers]

I vividly remember that and putting it in and saying “this is stupid” and I went onto my camera roll and said “the fsm must be wrong” and I put it in correct. Results will be posted when I check my valves

 

[Christian.mers]

Sticky sticky valves. When rebuilding I didn’t realize everything should fall into place with no resistance at all and so that led me to assembling everything that way. Rookie mistake. Valve body is disassembled and I’m polishing the valves/bores till everything goes in with no resistance. I use WD40 for my testing, spray the bore and the valve and if it doesn’t go in the first 2 tries (under it’s own weight with no movement of the VB or assistance using your hands or a a tool to push it down) it needs polished

Here’s a better look at the TransGo TF-1 kit for a torqueflite 6 pressure Release system. It’s all designed so you can take all of the pressure off your adjusting screw and these springs adjust it where it needs to be (middle valve with 2 springs, shim, and spring seat)

Be very vigilant removing everything like @hear said because if I wasn’t paying attention I would’ve gotten my orientation in my picture wrong. Thankfully I vividly remember everything

Note: The metal sleeve (throttle plunger sleeve) has a bigger and smaller end, put the valve (throttle plunger) into the bigger end. I know in the picture above that @hear put it shows the correct orientation but it doesn’t the sleeve orientation

 

[Christian.mers]

Also broke my pan magnet and Neutral Safety Switch…..

I dropped the magnet on the ground and it shattered into about 20 pieces and the switch just wouldn’t come out of the trans when I was removing the VB so I just manhandled it (I have a new one coming so I wasn’t worried about braking it.)
Now the challenge of getting it back in with ouch issues

 

[hear]

Putting the vb back in isn't too hard, just be careful with the shift selector seal as you're trying to get the park rod into place. Also protip, if you don't torque down the VB bolts you'll have a bad time, ask me how I know.

It's always nice when you take something apart and actually find something amiss. Like if the valves were sticking just enough to cause a problem but not enough for our amateur eyes to recognize it was a problem. Then what? Sticky valve was my diagnosis on the TV stuff, but it could easily be the cause of your 2-3 flare too. I'm anxious to see how it behaves after you get it back together.

 

[hear]

Note: The metal sleeve (throttle plunger sleeve) has a bigger and smaller end, put the valve (throttle plunger) into the bigger end. I know in the picture above that @hear put it shows the correct orientation but it doesn’t the sleeve orientation

I make a pretty big point of that in the VB re-assembly video. The FSM & ATSG don't mention it at all. But if you put it on backwards I don't think you can get throttle bracket on, although I haven't actually tried.

 

[Christian.mers]

I forgot to put the jeep in neutral and I couldn’t get the park rod out so it’s still hanging around in the park gear. I have to get it back out so that I can put my detent ball and spring back into the VB. That ball will go flying, I haven’t had to lose it and find it yet and I sure hope to not have to do. I would’ve done the upgrade and get rid of the ball is if wasn’t like $50

I’m one of those weirdos that torque everything to spec all the time. When rebuilding engines especially. I take a marker and make a line if I’ve torqued it then I make another line when I torque it a second time so it’s an “X” so that I know I’ve torqued it. On my VB I just tighten to 35in. Lbs in a certain pattern so it draws everything down properly and then I make a point to hit every bolt a second time. I do this with my pan and most other stuff. If it’s important it’s getting torqued 2 times. Obviously I’m not Torquing my hose clamps, believe it or not it is a big thing to torque hose clamps in aircraft settings.

I’m sure the sticky vlvs could absolutely be why my TV was seeing 0 boost, some of my vlvs I really had to give the VB love to get out.

I’ll have to test if you can get the bracket back on with the sleeve on in the incorrect orientation but the plunger in the correct orientation.

I’m pretty Excited to get him back on the road. I need new tires bad and this Soft top and half doors suck in the winter but last winter I didn’t have heat at all and I’ve fixed it since then. I have all the crap I want to do to him. I ordered my stuff for an XJ tie Rod conversion, ball joints, I want to get new control arms, I need to replace the bushings on all mine because I’m getting some shimmy and it only occurred after I took the control arms out and put them back in (I didn’t preload the bushings) but they looked rough and swollen. Took a spud wrench and a big hammer to get them back in.

I need to finish my Savvy t case shifter, I’m having trouble understanding how to adjust the ends to be where I need them or how they should feel/ look when properly adjusted

 

[Christian.mers]

Good news. Finished the Valve Body and put it back into its loving home, new neutral safety switch and new accumulator installed too. I got to drive it yesterday and drive it to work today and it shift great. Forced downshift at 45mph is good and lockup is firm and quick like I drilled it out to be. The bigger the holes (into the Lockup switch casting) means more pressure so it’s firm. I’m getting good shifts all the way around 2-3 flare is fixed. 1-2 is shifting good and not at exaggerated rpm.

 

[Christian.mers]

While the jeep was down and not being driven I also replaced the tie rod, drag link, sleeves, ends, and ball joints. All were needing it badly! My unit bearings will be needing replaced soon but for 28 years old there’s minimal play and free spinning (slight resistance on driver). I knew they were old when the entire bolt was rusted in and I had to crank for an hour to get 6 bolts out! I also had to use a pulled and a giant 1/2 impact to spin it down. It sure sucked! But the old ones are out and the ones are in

The bottoms were wallowed out so badly that I could hold the stud horizontally and it would fall down by itself. Not sure if this normal but the tops did not move at all. Not even with vise grips

 

[Christian.mers]

Thought it was the XJ conversion kit but I guess it wasn’t. I don’t wheel hard or anything so I’m sure It’ll be fine, if not I’ll just buy a currectlync

 

[dla]

Thought it was the XJ conversion kit but I guess it wasn’t. I don’t wheel hard or anything so I’m sure It’ll be fine, if not I’ll just buy a currectlync

That is the ZJ tie rod, it’s diameter is a bit larger and it’s solid not hollow tubing like the TJ one.

 

[Christian.mers]

Thank you for the correction, I couldn’t remember for the life of me if it was ZJ or XJ

 

[Christian.mers]

Rebuilt Trans is holding up strong! I’ve only got about 250 miles on it but I will note. You can feel the increased line pressure from the TF-1 shift kit and you can hear it build up and bleed off when you are coming off the line and all the way up to the 1-2 (not super loud but noticeable). I have no concerns and my forced downshift to 2nd is crisp at around 45-50mph. Really nice and firm lockup.

Found this killer Crown Vic. If I had $3,500 I would buy it right now. It’s only 30 minutes away

 

[Apparition]

Rebuilt Trans is holding up strong! I’ve only got about 250 miles on it but I will note. You can feel the increased line pressure from the TF-1 shift kit and you can hear it build up and bleed off when you are coming off the line and all the way up to the 1-2 (not super loud but noticeable). I have no concerns and my forced downshift to 2nd is crisp at around 45-50mph. Really nice and firm lockup.

Found this killer Crown Vic. If I had $3,500 I would buy it right now. It’s only 30 minutes away

View attachment 653788

Looks like a derby car

 

[Christian.mers]

Looks like the wife is making him sell it

 

[Christian.mers]

Installed these front speakers that my buddy had laying around. Bought a pigtail that plugs into the factory location and has spade connectors on it. I am a crazy man about not altering my harness. Bought these 4x6 adapters and they matched up when I held them to the factory speaker (I only had one on the passenger side which didn’t even work). New ones are 4x6 but I guess small on the mounting locations, this is what I rigged up

Happy altogether, sounds better than having no front speakers so I’m pleased about it. Wanting to install an amp and sub next but I need to alter my console for a sub