Jeep Wrangler TJ Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement

[TJ4Jim]

When removing the old CPS, I noticed the felt spacer was missing, with just a tiny piece of it still stuck to the sensor. I was able to put my finger into the hole and feel the old felt down in there, but am unable to get it out and in doing so, it fell to a position that I an no longer feel it. I tried to get a vacuum hose in there to suck it out, but with no success.

Will it just fall down into the oil pan where I can remove it from there? Not sure what it looks like in there or if I can get it out without taking the whole thing apart.

It will just lay in the bell housing, nothing to be concerned with.

 

[DavidCade]

I’m having trouble locating the cps. I have a 2003 with the 2.5l. I don’t see it anywhere on the bell housing. This is a picture on the driver side of the bell housing. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[TJ4Jim]

I’m having trouble locating the cps. I have a 2003 with the 2.5l. I don’t see it anywhere on the bell housing. This is a picture on the driver side of the bell housing. Any help would be much appreciated.

View attachment 287278

Welcome to the forum.

If your Jeep is the 03' then you have the 2.4 that is totally different.

You can locate your service manual in the resource section for additional info.

 

[Cbritland]

If you have a Wrangler TJ Sahara 4.0L 5spd manual its a 2 bolt part. Mopar P/N: 68407888AA

 

[LittleGiant]

I had a similar issue regarding code P0320, my 98 auto TJ run rough on idle or gear reving up by itself, and usually the condition went away after some driving... so before I spend 100+ bucks on a new crankshaft position sensor I plugged it off and removed it to check its condition (I was going to diagnose it but I tried manually adjusting first), I gave it a clean with a rag checking the condition of the wires and connectors and since nothing looked damaged I installed it back on... when I tried to tighten the screw back on I noticed that the screw was really short and could not hold tightly the CPS, so I replaced the screw... first I just let the CPS go in all the way and tighten the screw... when I turned the engine the reving up was still there, then I tried placing the CPS all the way out from the hole as possible and tighten the screw again (the CPS hole has a slot) and VOILA! the condition was no longer there... but the code and check engine light where still on... I drove around for a while with the light still on but no reving condition... the next day I started the jeep and the check engine light was gone!!!

PS. The screw I had on and had replaced was M10 not a 7/16...

I think I got lucky but you never know if you don't try!

I know this is an older post, but what do you mean the CPS has a slot? I’m finding that the screw is too short as well.

When I took out my old one I noticed the screw wasn’t fully tight and the CPS was wobbly.

Do you have to place it in and turn it?

There is only one bolt so it’s not possibly install incorrectly is it?

 

[LittleGiant]

The new MOPAR CPS has a cardboard spacer stuck to it to set the gap. Once the engine starts, the cardboard tears off. That is probably why moving the CPS out in the slot worked. I have the same problem with the screw being too short. Off to the hardware store to get a longer one. Looks like 10mm head with M7x1.0 threads.

Just purchased a new mopar CPS for my 04 Auto. It don’t come with a cardboard piece. What do you by that to fill the gap?

Same issue here with the screw being too short

 

[rav082762]

Really? I didn't know that. That's odd... Wonder why the CPS sensor would be different just based on the transmission type?

The CPS for the 1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE 2.5L Engine is located at the 10 0’ Clock position on the bell housing, driver’s side, for the Manual 5 speed . The CPS connector is just to the left of the fuel rail. The issue with the CPS going bad, Carbon Deposits over time. I replaced my CPS and my engine smoothed out, but I replaced my Distributor Cap and Rotor at the same time.