JKS vs Currie Front Track Bar

I guess it varies. I have front arms that are pretty much stock length and the currie trackbar barely grazes the rubi front cover.

It is a 97 with 44s swapped in though?

I'm not sure!

I've only ever messed with my TJ specifically, and I have Dana 30 fronts, so I have nothing to compare it to other than you guys' experiences.
Haven't gotten around to a 44 front yet, but judging by the diff covers I could see where it would cause issue based on my earlier statement...

on my current specs, I can slide my hand between the differential and the Track Bar at full droop, as well as full compression. I've got about 1" of clean clearance between the Track Bar and anything else

The 44 cover does seem like it would close that gap that I currently have, so that could be the issue entirely.
Maybe the 30 is netting me enough clearance, whereas the 44 would not.

When I get the front axle into my LJ, I'll throw in the JKS and cycle the suspension up/down to take some pics.
 
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The best marketplace deal I have scored was my currie front track bar. New style, unopened. Dude just had a lift installed locally and they recommended teraflex over the currie bar for some reason. So I got a new jj axle side currie bar for under $200.

This is my currie front track bar story.
 
The best marketplace deal I have scored was my currie front track bar. New style, unopened. Dude just had a lift installed locally and they recommended teraflex over the currie bar for some reason. So I got a new jj axle side currie bar for under $200.

This is my currie front track bar story.

When I very first got my TJ, I passed up a Marketplace deal on 4 new Currie 4" springs, and a Currie Track Bar.
$400 for the bundle.

I didn't know anything about TJ's at the time, aside from having one in my garage.

I've kicked myself in the ass about it ever since.
 
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When I very first got my TJ, I passed up a Marketplace deal on 4 new Currie 4" springs, and a Currie Track Bar.
$400 for the bundle.

I didn't know anything about TJ's at the time, aside from having one in my garage.

I've kicked myself in the ass about it ever since.

Been there before! What make my market place deal even sweeter was its the closest deal I have made on marketplace. They lived in the neighborhood across the street lol.
 
Currie/Rockjock allows for more suspension up travel due to the bends around the diff cover being better and the offset Johnny Joint at the frame side which further pushes the bar forward. And the joints are actual Johnny Joints. That is all that needs to be said about which is the preferable track bar.

With that foundation established, Currie/RJ is better suited for reshaping after a front stretch and building in additional up travel after a front outboard.

Short of custom fabrication, mine couldn't exist as it is without the Currie track bar in the front.

That makes a lot of sense. I have JKS bars front and rear on my Jeep, and I don't have any issues with clearance, but I followed the general "35's build standard" that a lot of us on the forum use, which is almost no custom work.

When I got my JKS bars, I figured the Currie would be better, but with a lot of members recommending the JKS as a decent alternative I went with them to save a bit as funds were rapidly depleting.

If I eventually decide to stretch, I'll order a Currie. Your explanation makes clear the difference between the two beyond "Currie is better quality". Thanks.
 
https://core4x4.com/product/crl-j-tjlj-tbk2/


Im running these front and rear. No brackets required. No binding at all. JJ’s both ends or one end (i have one end but will upgrade that end eventually. Look at the prices! Guaranteed for life. I’m on 3 years and still working fine.

If i do it again I’ll probably try their CA’s too.

Core 4x4 for the win with pricing and quality.
 
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... The Camp series would give you one JJ for a little less. But it has a poly bushing on the other side instead of rubber.

https://core4x4.com/product/crl-j-tjlj-rtb1/

If the poly bushing is accurate, that should be an immediate disqualifier. Poly bushing means a split bushing which will wear quickly and start knocking around. A bonded rubber Cleavite bushing is far more preferable.
 
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If the poly bushing is accurate, that should be an immediate disqualifier. Poly bushing means a split bushing which will wear quickly and start knocking around. A bonded rubber Cleavite bushing is far more preferable.

Yea that's why I wanted to point out the the camp series had poly on one side. It saves a little money but at what cost. However, the crawl gets two JJs.
 
If you are thinking about 4" of spring and 35's on the LJ, don't waste time and buy twice. Just get the RockJock and be done with it. I had a JKS bar and like @jjvw I have 1.5" of bumpstop. I got tired of fighting it and finally bought a RockJock. The difference is slight, but important. I also have a Rubicon with a Front 44.
 
If you have a front Dana 44 or a front stretch you'll find out quick why you want a currie. Yes all their stuff is $$$ but oh well.

What if I have a Currie 44, with a Currie cover, and a Metalcloak track bar? I even have had a Currie track bar waiting to replace it for at least two years but haven’t had a reason to?
 
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What if I have a Currie 44, with a Currie cover, and a Metalcloak track bar? I even have had a Currie track bar waiting to replace it for at least two years but haven’t had a reason to?

How much uptravel are you getting how much bump stop do you have? Genuinely curious, since you don’t really post much about your jeeps
 
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What if I have a Currie 44, with a Currie cover, and a Metalcloak track bar? I even have had a Currie track bar waiting to replace it for at least two years but haven’t had a reason to?

I was referring to the op's currie vs jks question. What if i used a piece of rebar to make a trackbar? What if it worked great with an f450 Dana 60?
 
How much uptravel are you getting how much bump stop do you have? Genuinely curious, since you don’t really post much about your jeeps

I can’t remember the exact up but it’s around 5”. It’s in storage or I’d measure it. 2” bump stop.
 
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I was referring to the op's currie vs jks question. What if i used a piece of rebar to make a trackbar? What if it worked great with an f450 Dana 60?

Oh and don’t get me wrong, I do think the Currie is the best trackbar that anyone can buy. But, I’ve never even had to bend my MC bar and it works.
 
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... But, I’ve never even had to bend my MC bar and it works.

I would have needed to. But I was not going to do that work to a track bar with a horizontal rod end that wears out. Even if MC kept giving me free replacements.
 
I would have needed to. But I was not going to do that work to a track bar with a horizontal rod end that wears out. Even if MC kept giving me free replacements.

Wasn’t meant as a dig at you. Just pointing out it worked without modification on a thick covered 44.

My bar has been on for 6 years. When it wears out I’ll install the Currie if I don’t decide to earlier.
 
That one is better than the name suggests.

Swap out the bushings (moog equivalent, I forget the part #) and you have a very good track bar for the money.

I just purchased a RC Trackbar for our jeep (recently acquired TJ 2004 6Cyl). Is there a quick and dirty way to look up this part # for the bushings? I'd like to try this out.

What I was able to find was this:

Track Bar Bushing K3176
Track Bar Bushing K3147

This is the trackbar kit I ordered with, seemed like a reasonable choice for my price range.

Forged | FR | 0-3.5 Inch Lift | Jeep Wrangler TJ (97-06)/Wrangler Unlimited (04-06)

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