Just Expect Extra Purchases

Update #49

The last post actually took place over the holidays so I'll get this caught up. Since then I've been working on the "roll cage" I know I wanted a bar behind the back seats as well as along the sides. Also I put in cross bars by the windshield frame & above the back seats. Finally two bars down the center. I know that this is not a finished project, but I decided to paint it anyway with the usual method: primer, rock texture paint then tan to match the interior. Eventually I will add another bar behind the driver seats, behind the A pillar & across the dash. The cage is at the point where I can barely remove & install it by myself so the rest will have to wait. There were also some cosmetic changes involving plug welding holes & gaps.

I also installed some supports from the rear cage to the rear torque box. I got the idea from @Wildman build thread post. It looked like a challenge for my fabrication skills so why not. It didn't cost me anything & it will provide some additional reinforcement. I forgot to take more pictures because I tend to get in the zone with GTAW.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

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Your welds look like they could use some work. Recommend reaching out to @AirborneTexasRanger — He's a wealth of knowledge on the....

Oh crap! Nevermind!


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😄

Looking amazing! Love the paint texture and color. Layout looks great. Congrats. Must feel great to check that off the list (for now - since you indicated returning to it in the future).
 
Update #51

No progress on the build, but parts have been ordered...lots of parts. Papa Elon came through with a raise!
Rancho shocks & stabilizer
Revolution gears with new axles
Spicer ball joints
Spicer differential yoke front & rear for piece of mind.
Rock Jock coil springs
ARB air compressor & lockers
Barnes 4WD trans skid plate. Engine skid is on back order
Ruff Stuff 1 ton steering upgrade
Ruff Stuff DIY link kit
Ruff Stuff various brackets & DIY parts
Milestar Patagonia MT 33"

Drive shafts will be ordered after suspension setup is finalized. It is really hard to resist ordering these for a long time because I very much want to drive the Jeep again.

Other boring stuff like planning on refreshing fluids, filters & spark plugs once I figure out how to do that, don't laugh.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel
 
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Update #52

New tires are here & installed. It's crazy how new tires can totally change the look of the Jeep. I really want to keep the canyons which means I needed wheel spacers which is fine.

I also got the skid plate installed & it's almost completely flat. I needed to modify a 7" x 7" section to clear the bottom corner of the Atlas. I used some bar stock to build up the sides, then threw a cap pass to make everything smooth. I also had to clearance the transmission a bit & accidentally removed too much but I'll fix that when I put the bolt head protectors on. All in all I think it's a huge improvement over stock.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

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Update #53

Skid plate is complete, painted & installed. I had thought to use some tapered bolt protectors, but they stuck out ½" & looked ugly as hell, also it kinda defeats the purpose of the flat belly. I finally settled on using some weld washers, plug welded the back side to fill the slot then drilled a countersink. I have a mag-drill instead of a regular standing drill press so drilling these holes was very easy.

I bought an Anti-rock from @Lemmy & got that installed, well partially installed. I had built the front bumper a while back with the intention of using an Anti-rock. IIRC I asked for a measurement from a forum member & built the bumper off of that. I think I did pretty good. I even managed to get the spacing on the spare tire carrier correct for the larger tires. It rides centered on the back so the snubbers needed a little adjustment.

Oh, I also pulled out the rear axle.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

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Update #52

Skid plate is complete, painted & installed. I had thought to use some tapered bolt protectors, but they stuck out ½" & looked ugly as hell, also it kinda defeats the purpose of the flat belly. I finally settled on using some weld washers, plug welded the back side to fill the slot then drilled a countersink. I have a mag-drill instead of a regular standing drill press so drilling these holes was very easy.

I bought an Anti-rock from @Lemmy & got that installed, well partially installed. I had built the front bumper a while back with the intention of using an Anti-rock. IIRC I asked for a measurement from a forum member & built the bumper off of that. I think I did pretty good. I even managed to get the spacing on the spare tire carrier correct for the larger tires. It rides centered on the back so the snubbers needed a little adjustment.

Oh, I also pulled out the rear axle.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

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Nice those weld washers on the skid plate look good. Way better than my hex heads that just stick right out.
 
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Nice those weld washers on the skid plate look good. Way better than my hex heads that just stick right out.

Thanks, they're only 3/16 but it was enough of a backer to fill the existing slot with weld. It also allowed me to tack them in place as it was bolted to the frame & avoid having to plot holes, redrill & hope they line up again. Only issue I have was after I drilled the countersink, I needed to weld the seam in the hole then smooth it out.
 
Update #54

Got the rear differential housing partially welded. I say partially because I found some major defects which are in need of repair. Once I cleaned all the gunk off the differential I some big porosity in the plug welds joining the axle tubes to the differential. Took a closer look & saw some cracks. I wanted to know how bad the cracks were so I penetrant tested it.
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This is only the 4 top ones. I should have left it alone, but I didn't. Using a burr bit I started digging, it just got worse from there. The pea sized pores & cracks went all the way through the weld & into the base metal. Dug everything out as best I could, preheated everything & welded it all up. I also welded the outer edge while I was at it. Not my best work but I don't see any cracks. I'll PT it again next weekend.

Why repair it? Because you learn more about welding when you're making repairs.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

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Looking for someone feedback here. I'm in the process of regearing & this is where I am at so far. I'm thinking I need to increase the pinion shims.

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This is where I ended for the day. Not much progress towards the end goal but I'm learning so that's something.

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Good on you! You'll have a lot of pride in the end having learned and done it yourself.

You may have covered this, can't recall (follow too many builds... lol) - What's up with the impact marks around on the carrier? Looks like it was the pinion coming in contact. Just didn't want that to be a new thing with these new gears.
 
Good on you! You'll have a lot of pride in the end having learned and done it yourself.

You may have covered this, can't recall (follow too many builds... lol) - What's up with the impact marks around on the carrier? Looks like it was the pinion coming in contact. Just didn't want that to be a new thing with these new gears.

That was from my first setup a few weeks ago. Rookie mistake. It doesn't contact the carrier anymore so I don't think it will be an issue
 
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This is where I ended for the day. Not much progress towards the end goal but I'm learning so that's something.

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Progress is progress!

Use far less marking compound when painting the teeth next time. Unlike welding, you don't want a puddle here😁.

You are very much in the ballpark now. But I can't tell for certain with so much paint at the root. Can you wipe most of that off and then anyway just enough to make it yellow but not build up? Don't change any shims yet as you might be there as is.
 
Progress is progress!

Use far less marking compound when painting the teeth next time. Unlike welding, you don't want a puddle here😁.

You are very much in the ballpark now. But I can't tell for certain with so much paint at the root. Can you wipe most of that off and then anyway just enough to make it yellow but not build up? Don't change any shims yet as you might be there as is.

How's this?

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Progress is progress!

Use far less marking compound when painting the teeth next time. Unlike welding, you don't want a puddle here😁.

You are very much in the ballpark now. But I can't tell for certain with so much paint at the root. Can you wipe most of that off and then anyway just enough to make it yellow but not build up? Don't change any shims yet as you might be there as is.

I've heard others recommend to dilute the marking compound with oil... Can't recall the type of oil but it makes it more viscous for a better reads........ Others can will give you better advice to this point
 
I've heard others recommend to dilute the marking compound with oil... Can't recall the type of oil but it makes it more viscous for a better reads........ Others can will give you better advice to this point

His looked thinned out and runny already, so no need here. It's just mixing it with gear oil.
 
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Yes that's better. Add more pressure when turning the ring gear if you can.

It looks like you're still deep. Try removing 5 thou.

Hoping this looks promising. My backlash is at 11 so that might need to be adjusted but I only changed the pinion shims for this pattern.



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