Missfire cyl 6

mattcat670

New Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2022
Messages
1
Location
Wa state
Jeep tj frens!
I need mechanic help!!
My mechanical mind is at its limit.
My vehicle is a 2002 jeep wrangler sport automatic.

I recently rebuilt my 4.0 I6 and did the full stroker build during this process I worked with Russ Pottentger @bishipbuhel racing. He supplied me with racetec pistons, 4.2 crank, a higher lift cam, a fully ported head, matched scat rods, bullet timing chain, Matched injectors, and a larger throttle body from BBK.

At the time of the rebuild I replaced every single bolt, sensor piece and part. All new and of the quality Russ told me to. This including rebuilding the trans, a new exhaust from the headers all the way to the tailpipe(including cats!) The o2 sensors are all new Bosch. The coil pack was replaced with a msd ignition rail and all throttle body parts where replaced (IAC,MAP,TPS) the only thing original in my engine bay is the stock computer, the original wiring, evap system, and the original engine block.

Now to the problem.
Since I have put this jeep back on the road I keep running into a missfire on cylinder 6 and evap code saying very small leak. I have done a leak down of the cylinders starting at 80 lbs and had a maximum loss of 7lbs. Cranking Compressions where all up in the 160-170psi range and have swapped coils, plugs, injectors, o2 sensors for newer ones, checked fuel rail press @47lbs, did a bleed down on the rail to find zero loss checked injector patterns and all checked out proper. My plug in 6 is sometimes wet and other times it looks like it has had a good burn(not rich, nor lean)
I forgot to mention I went and borrowed a Daimler Chrysler computer to set the sync sig at the cam, and replaced the cranck sensor with 3 different brand to no avail.

Tonight I pulled off the valve cover and checked my lift and every single intake and exhaust valve had uniform lift. I used a camera to look into the cylinders to find no culprits, oil is clean, doesn't burn a drop and I'm at a loss for words confiding my circumstances.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm starting to think that maby there is a bad computer or a messed up wire going to the coil pack. But I would even know how to test this. Thanks in advance
 
Jeep tj frens!
I need mechanic help!!
My mechanical mind is at its limit.
My vehicle is a 2002 jeep wrangler sport automatic.

I recently rebuilt my 4.0 I6 and did the full stroker build during this process I worked with Russ Pottentger @bishipbuhel racing. He supplied me with racetec pistons, 4.2 crank, a higher lift cam, a fully ported head, matched scat rods, bullet timing chain, Matched injectors, and a larger throttle body from BBK.

At the time of the rebuild I replaced every single bolt, sensor piece and part. All new and of the quality Russ told me to. This including rebuilding the trans, a new exhaust from the headers all the way to the tailpipe(including cats!) The o2 sensors are all new Bosch. The coil pack was replaced with a msd ignition rail and all throttle body parts where replaced (IAC,MAP,TPS) the only thing original in my engine bay is the stock computer, the original wiring, evap system, and the original engine block.

Now to the problem.
Since I have put this jeep back on the road I keep running into a missfire on cylinder 6 and evap code saying very small leak. I have done a leak down of the cylinders starting at 80 lbs and had a maximum loss of 7lbs. Cranking Compressions where all up in the 160-170psi range and have swapped coils, plugs, injectors, o2 sensors for newer ones, checked fuel rail press @47lbs, did a bleed down on the rail to find zero loss checked injector patterns and all checked out proper. My plug in 6 is sometimes wet and other times it looks like it has had a good burn(not rich, nor lean)
I forgot to mention I went and borrowed a Daimler Chrysler computer to set the sync sig at the cam, and replaced the cranck sensor with 3 different brand to no avail.

Tonight I pulled off the valve cover and checked my lift and every single intake and exhaust valve had uniform lift. I used a camera to look into the cylinders to find no culprits, oil is clean, doesn't burn a drop and I'm at a loss for words confiding my circumstances.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm starting to think that maby there is a bad computer or a messed up wire going to the coil pack. But I would even know how to test this. Thanks in advance

I’m not an engine guru, but I do know that the only O2 sensors recommended on this forum are NTK/NGK.

P.s. welcome to the forum. Also in WA
 
Intermittent or a hard fault? This screams shorted control wire.

If it's intermittent, with KOER I'd wait for it to fail, CAREFULLY (so I didn't disturb the harness' position) back-probe the suspect injectors control wire with a t-pin, take an INCANDESCENT test light connected to battery positive, touch t-pin. If the test light lights and doesn't flicker, you've found your problem. Turn engine off. Test light should still be lit if a short exists. Carefully wiggle harness while paying attention to the light. When the light goes out, you've found your short. If all of that tests good. T-pin power feed, switch test light to battery negative, test light should light.

Or, visually check the harness to be sure there aren't chaffed wires in the harness that runs behind the valve cover. But, that's not near as fun to me.

There's also a chance that the driver has failed and has a short to ground in the PCM. I can walk you through testing for that as well if you want/run into that. But do the previous stuff first.