My Dream LJR

I'm curious about your locker setup. Do you have a rubicon locker pump for the front and the ARB pump plumbed to the rear? So you have to turn on your ARB compressor via a switch and then the rear locker via another switch?

I ask because folks have mentioned that the ARB locker requires a much higher pressure to engage than the 5 psi rubilocker pump.

I had originally thought it was stock Rubicon Lockers and 4.10 gears.

At a glance from both differentials they’re ran to the stock locker pumps. There aren’t any other switches from what I saw in the dash, so I assumed it’s ran as if I had both OE lockers.

I’m going to have to dig into it once I wire the air compressor and find out exactly how the rear locker is connected/ran.
 
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I had originally thought it was stock Rubicon Lockers and 4.10 gears.

At a glance from both differentials they’re ran to the stock locker pumps. There aren’t any other switches from what I saw in the dash, so I assumed it’s ran as if I had both OE lockers.

I’m going to have to dig into it once I wire the air compressor and find out exactly how the rear locker is connected/ran.

Have you used the locker much? I’d image that the dash light only blinks for the rear locker. I’m also curious about your setup.
 
Have you used the locker much? I’d image that the dash light only blinks for the rear locker. I’m also curious about your setup.

I have not for the exception when I first bought it to see if it would engage.

I looked at the pumps and it appears the air lines were plumbed together for the rear locker. Not sure how it would work when it comes to the locker button though at this point I’ll be undoing it all and keep one of the pumps as a spare.
 
Ordered the Savvy Cable and it had arrived a little over a week ago.

Finally got around to throwing it on, with the 4” lift and TT the shifter use to bind quite a bit and now shifts smoothly! I also had the time to throw on the Speedohealer to correct my speed with 35’s and 4.88 gears.

When I had originally bought it, it had a weird issue of the rig only starting in 4L. Well, yesterday I came across an issue where the 4WD light wouldn’t come on, thus the Jeep not starting at all.

I investigated the 4WD light not coming on and it was as simple as cleaning the contacts on the transfer case switch.

After I had fixed it so the Jeep continues to start in 4L only I decided to finally investigate as to why. It appears the clutch doesn’t “engage” the neutral safety switch. I pulled the switch back by hand a bit and was able to turn over the rig in 2WD. So it looks like I’ll have purchase a few washers to push the neutral safety switch towards the clutch and hopefully that resolves it.

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Ordered the Savvy Cable and it had arrived a little over a week ago.

Finally got around to throwing it on, with the 4” lift and TT the shifter use to bind quite a bit and now shifts smoothly! I also had the time to throw on the Speedohealer to correct my speed with 35’s and 4.88 gears.

When I had originally bought it, it had a weird issue of the rig only starting in 4L. Well, yesterday I came across an issue where the 4WD light wouldn’t come on, thus the Jeep not starting at all.

I investigated the 4WD light not coming on and it was as simple as cleaning the contacts on the transfer case switch.

After I had fixed it so the Jeep continues to start in 4L only I decided to finally investigate as to why. It appears the clutch doesn’t “engage” the neutral safety switch. I pulled the switch back by hand a bit and was able to turn over the rig in 2WD. So it looks like I’ll have purchase a few washers to push the neutral safety switch towards the clutch and hopefully that resolves it.

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Makes sense since the clutch does not have to be pushed to start a Rubicon in 4 LO.
 
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Slightly off topic, but my father and I have been looking off and on for at least a 7k trailer to haul rigs to flip and of course for my Jeep for future travels to Rubicon, Moab, etc.

Earlier today I found a 2006 18ft 7k Aluma Trailer w/ dual electric brakes that needs quite a bit of TLC. After going back and forth we agreed on $2,500.

I felt at that price it was pretty hard to pass up and thus finished picking it up an hour ago.

Very excited to restore this to haul my LJR with my Ram 1500! 🙂

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Slightly off topic, but my father and I have been looking off and on for at least a 7k trailer to haul rigs to flip and of course for my Jeep for future travels to Rubicon, Moab, etc.

Earlier today I found a 2006 18ft 7k Aluma Trailer w/ dual electric brakes that needs quite a bit of TLC. After going back and forth we agreed on $2,500.

I felt at that price it was pretty hard to pass up and thus finished picking it up an hour ago.

Very excited to restore this to haul my LJR with my Ram 1500! 🙂

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That trailer is well worth that. Nice move.
 
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Slightly off topic, but my father and I have been looking off and on for at least a 7k trailer to haul rigs to flip and of course for my Jeep for future travels to Rubicon, Moab, etc.

Earlier today I found a 2006 18ft 7k Aluma Trailer w/ dual electric brakes that needs quite a bit of TLC. After going back and forth we agreed on $2,500.

I felt at that price it was pretty hard to pass up and thus finished picking it up an hour ago.

Very excited to restore this to haul my LJR with my Ram 1500! 🙂

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That’s a great deal!
 
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Recently came across a used PSC Big Bore Steering Box on Facebook Market Place in Las Vegas. Made an offer for $300 + flat rate shipping on my end and within the week received it!

It appears the condition to the steering box is good overall and found markings that make me believe it was made on April of 2019. I’m tempted to send it off to PSC and have it rebuilt but we’ll see!

Been wanting one of these for years back when I had my yellow TJ. Glad to finally have one on hand!

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Found a used MOPAR Transmission Mount here on the forum and decided to switch out my polyurethane mount. Prior to, there weren’t any notable vibes on the rig though would prefer the opportunity to run all rubber on the rig.

While switching the mount I also ran to the hardware store for the proper length bolts and removed these odd spacers that were added onto the bracket that holds the transmission mount/exhaust hanger.

All this money I’ve spent on upgrades and I’ve neglected to replace the rear glass struts on the hardtop all winter… better late than never I suppose. 😅

Also, I may have potentially found a buyer for my PSC Front Bumper this weekend that’ll allow me to replace it with an aluminum front bumper from either UCF or Savvy… time will tell!

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Decided to do something a little different with the Gauge Cluster on the Dash and HVAC controls. I placed an order through Azzys Design Works and at the same time Amber LED’s for the Gauge and Warm LED’s for the HVAC and Interior Lights from Super Bright LED’s.. Overall love the difference it made!

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Sold my Poison Spyder Front Bumper a little while ago and while waiting for my replacement aluminum bumper by UCF to arrive I went ahead and installed the PSC Big Bore Steering box and PSC direct replacement steering pump.

I also installed an old set of 6 Infinite Off-Road rock lights from my previous Jeep I had hidden away in the garage. They’re tied into Infinite-Offroads “SPOD”.

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UCF Bumper Came arrived and is on the rig! Absolutely love the look.

Bought a set of Metal Cloak Shackle Tabs I’ll be adding on to the holes that remain. I’ll just have to cut them slightly shorter due to interference with the Factory 55 security bolts.



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Sold my Poison Spyder Front Bumper a little while ago and while waiting for my replacement aluminum bumper by UCF to arrive I went ahead and installed the PSC Big Bore Steering box and PSC direct replacement steering pump.

I also installed an old set of 6 Infinite Off-Road rock lights from my previous Jeep I had hidden away in the garage. They’re tied into Infinite-Offroads “SPOD”.

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Might I ask why you upgraded to PSC parts? Were you having trouble turning on the trail?
 
Might I ask why you upgraded to PSC parts? Were you having trouble turning on the trail?
I upgraded to get rid of the OEM Mercedes Box (once it fails it’s expensive to replace, unless you buy a used box).

The one from PSC is a Saginaw Box that’s overall beefier compared to OEM and retrofitted to work with the 03-06 Wrangler. It also has benefits of easily adding hydro assist down the road not to mention is rebuildable.
 
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How are ya liking those taillights? When I do corner armor, I’m looking at either these or the Savvy/Metalcloak style.

I’m a big fan of Maxbilt’s tail lights!

I’ve had these since roughly 2018 without any issues and believe they offer a lifetime warranty if any of the diodes fail.
 
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