OP
Oh it’s pissed. It gave me a solid hint when the battery died… 😂
Of all places luckily it occurred at Costco and in I went for a warranty exchange.
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My Dream LJR
- Thread starter Sgt Jarhead
- Start date
Of all places luckily it occurred at Costco and in I went for a warranty exchange.
OP
Well, the rig is now on KMC Machete Beadlocks with 35” Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I’m astounded how much heavier these are compared to the 35” BFG MT’s are on regular aluminum wheels 😂
I also had to adjust the Moryde Tire Carrier Snubbers for the added back spacing of the KMC’s compared to the other set.
I also had to adjust the Moryde Tire Carrier Snubbers for the added back spacing of the KMC’s compared to the other set.
OP
Between the holidays, work, and family- I’ve put the project on the back burner the past few months and finally got back around to it this weekend.
Though it didn’t stop me from stock piling Jeep parts in the meantime. 😅
Parts from Nemesis industries arrived just before Christmas. I ended up ordering their complete replacement fender kit, Titan Tub Armor, Billy Rockers, Corner Armor, and fender flares.
I also purchased a used savvy gas tank skid plate and took advantage of the Black Friday deal over at UCF and purchased their Aluminum Transmission and Engine Skid Plate!
Though it didn’t stop me from stock piling Jeep parts in the meantime. 😅
Parts from Nemesis industries arrived just before Christmas. I ended up ordering their complete replacement fender kit, Titan Tub Armor, Billy Rockers, Corner Armor, and fender flares.
I also purchased a used savvy gas tank skid plate and took advantage of the Black Friday deal over at UCF and purchased their Aluminum Transmission and Engine Skid Plate!
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OP
Photos probably didn’t dump in order off my phone but I tried 🤷🏽♂️ (I think I have it correct now)
The installation of the parts from Nemesis industries was pretty straight forward. I only had instructions for the replacement fenders and Titan Armor/Billy Rockers, though the instructions could’ve been better.
When I finished installing the fenders and the brackets I had to make some adjustments for the lines running to the evap canister. Due to the relocation bracket I had to extend the lines another 2-4 inches. I also had to extend the wires to one of the windshield water pumps. The kit is very well thought out relocating the windshield reservoir, evap canister, horn and fuse box out of the way while raising their inner fenders. Sadly I didn’t end up using their battery box brackets since it’s meant for a Optima Red Top. I wanted to avoid spending the money on an “upgraded” battery.
The Fenders, Titan Armor, and Corner Armor all lined up really well. The only struggle I had was ensuring the Billy Rockers lined up to the body mounts. Not to mention snapping two bolts when I removed the Moryde Tire Carrier before the corner armor went on… 🙃
The Aluminum/Khaki mix is quickly growing on me. I believe I’ll have the corner armor, Titan Armor and Fenders color matched followed by the fender flares and Billy Rocker rattle canned black.
I still have to button up some small things such as adding Max Bilt Trail Tail lights to replace the stock set. Once complete I’ll move onto adding the Savvy Gas Tank skid and hopefully move onto the Currie lift kit!
The installation of the parts from Nemesis industries was pretty straight forward. I only had instructions for the replacement fenders and Titan Armor/Billy Rockers, though the instructions could’ve been better.
When I finished installing the fenders and the brackets I had to make some adjustments for the lines running to the evap canister. Due to the relocation bracket I had to extend the lines another 2-4 inches. I also had to extend the wires to one of the windshield water pumps. The kit is very well thought out relocating the windshield reservoir, evap canister, horn and fuse box out of the way while raising their inner fenders. Sadly I didn’t end up using their battery box brackets since it’s meant for a Optima Red Top. I wanted to avoid spending the money on an “upgraded” battery.
The Fenders, Titan Armor, and Corner Armor all lined up really well. The only struggle I had was ensuring the Billy Rockers lined up to the body mounts. Not to mention snapping two bolts when I removed the Moryde Tire Carrier before the corner armor went on… 🙃
The Aluminum/Khaki mix is quickly growing on me. I believe I’ll have the corner armor, Titan Armor and Fenders color matched followed by the fender flares and Billy Rocker rattle canned black.
I still have to button up some small things such as adding Max Bilt Trail Tail lights to replace the stock set. Once complete I’ll move onto adding the Savvy Gas Tank skid and hopefully move onto the Currie lift kit!
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Very cool, don’t think I’ve seen the nemesis set up install on the forum. Looks like everything fit together clean
Do you think the UCF engine skid plate will work with the Banks Turbo installation? I am using a Terraflex skid plate that mounts directly to the engine case rather than the Jeep’s frame. I would rather have a frame mounted skid plate but I wasn’t aware of one that would clear the Banks turbo.
OP
I may recall one photo showing up on this forum. I’m surprised it’s not brought up because it’s a very clean set up. Time will tell how it handles off-road but from what I’ve read and videos I’ve watched it looks pretty stout to handle rocks.
OP
I believe it will require some deal of welding/fabrication.
I’ve came across this same dilema when I had it on my Yellow TJ.
In my case for this rig though, I plan on purchasing just the headers from American Racing Headers (found out they’ll sell just the headers separate from the exhaust system). From there I’ll bring in the rig to an exhaust shop with the exhaust pieces to the banks kit and have them work around the UCF Engine Skid.
In case anyone’s wondering I’ll be putting together a DIY Intercooler, and through HP Tuners and Flying Ryan have a custom tune for the rig gutting the cats/emissions.
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OP
Beat the sunset this evening getting on my Maxbilt Trail Tail lights soon as I got off work today.
Also found my missing plug and play trailer wiring kit while cleaning up the garage yesterday. I threw it on after I wired the pigtails off my stock tail lights to the Maxbilt set.
Also found my missing plug and play trailer wiring kit while cleaning up the garage yesterday. I threw it on after I wired the pigtails off my stock tail lights to the Maxbilt set.
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OP
While looking through Northridge blow out sale I came across JW Speaker lights for $20-25 a pop. Initially I was interested in ATP’s Footman Loop though purchased everything you see in the photo.
This was a complete impulse buy and forgot about it until it all arrived today… I’ll figure out where I can throw these lights on. 😂
This was a complete impulse buy and forgot about it until it all arrived today… I’ll figure out where I can throw these lights on. 😂
OP
Spent some time today swapping the stock gas tank skid plate to Savvy’s gas tank skid. While the gas tank was out I took advantage of the modification that stops fuel from puking out while filling up the tank.
Luckily with the 1” Body Lift from M.O.R.E. I was able to tuck my gas tank.
I’ve also removed the rear lights that I assume were used as reverse lights at one point.
Here’s how the rear end looks for now!
Luckily with the 1” Body Lift from M.O.R.E. I was able to tuck my gas tank.
I’ve also removed the rear lights that I assume were used as reverse lights at one point.
Here’s how the rear end looks for now!
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OP
A few hours were spent today running wire loom through exposed wiring from removing the electric fan, I also ran wire loom on the new tail lights, the plug/play trailer wiring, and the extra wire I had to add to the windshield wiper connection.
I also re-ran the wire for the rear view mirror thermometer just under the Grill near the front Body Mount. Lastly, I cleaned up all the wires on the driver side the best I could.
Also took advantage of a quick photo-op of the few comestic changes I’ve made so far.
I also re-ran the wire for the rear view mirror thermometer just under the Grill near the front Body Mount. Lastly, I cleaned up all the wires on the driver side the best I could.
Also took advantage of a quick photo-op of the few comestic changes I’ve made so far.
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OP
Some light maintenance was done today.
When I first purchased the rig I noticed a light oil leak that has built up over time between the oil pan and transmission. Commonly where either a valve cover leak, oil pan leak, a rear main seal leak, or a mix of it all occurs. 😂
I went ahead and replaced the valve cover gasket, the PVC elbows/grommets, and did an oil change using 10w30 high mileage oil based on research from this forum.
Hopefully the valve cover gasket and high mileage oil will stop the slow oil leak. Worst case I’ll be replacing the oil pan gasket and RMS.
I’ve also replaced the oil drain bolt with a Fumoto drain bolt with the long neck. I replaced it the intent of installing a UCF Engine Skid Plate to make oil changes much easier.
When I first purchased the rig I noticed a light oil leak that has built up over time between the oil pan and transmission. Commonly where either a valve cover leak, oil pan leak, a rear main seal leak, or a mix of it all occurs. 😂
I went ahead and replaced the valve cover gasket, the PVC elbows/grommets, and did an oil change using 10w30 high mileage oil based on research from this forum.
Hopefully the valve cover gasket and high mileage oil will stop the slow oil leak. Worst case I’ll be replacing the oil pan gasket and RMS.
I’ve also replaced the oil drain bolt with a Fumoto drain bolt with the long neck. I replaced it the intent of installing a UCF Engine Skid Plate to make oil changes much easier.
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OP
Well, finally pulled these old half doors out of the shed. I snagged them back in 2018 for $40 in Hawaii with the intent to restore them but threw it in the back burner until now.
They’ll need a bit of TLC between fixing the inner latching mechanism (due to one of the ears for the rod that locks the door snapping), replacing a few door pin inserts, and of course repainting the doors, inner panels and door latches.
So far I’ve stripped them down and will take them to a shop and have the doors color matched. I’ll take the time to revive the inner door panels, exterior/interior latches myself and look into taking the key tumblers to a locksmith so they work with my key.
They’ll need a bit of TLC between fixing the inner latching mechanism (due to one of the ears for the rod that locks the door snapping), replacing a few door pin inserts, and of course repainting the doors, inner panels and door latches.
So far I’ve stripped them down and will take them to a shop and have the doors color matched. I’ll take the time to revive the inner door panels, exterior/interior latches myself and look into taking the key tumblers to a locksmith so they work with my key.
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OP
Ended up not only dropping off the doors, but decided to have the Poison Spyder Hood Louver color matched as well.
In the meantime I took the time to slowly start adding in the accessories I’ve had stored away. So far I’ve drilled new holes into the inner fender for the Infinite Off-Road 6 Switch Power Controller and ARB Compressor. I’ll finish up routing the wires then follow up on adding an old set of rock lights from Infinite Off-Road.
In the meantime I took the time to slowly start adding in the accessories I’ve had stored away. So far I’ve drilled new holes into the inner fender for the Infinite Off-Road 6 Switch Power Controller and ARB Compressor. I’ll finish up routing the wires then follow up on adding an old set of rock lights from Infinite Off-Road.
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OP
Just over a month later and I’ve put together the doors and slapped on the hood louver. For $40 half doors I purchased years ago they look brand new!
I ended up re-painting the door panels and re-key the tumblers (the member that posted how to do it can be found here) to work with my ignition key. I accidentally broke the “ear” to the lock/unlock portion of the latch assembly while removing the interior door latch. After seeing the price for a replacement I ended up jimmy riggin’ the ear with a little bit of JB plastic weld and a couple zip ties… so far it’s holding strong! 😂
Excited to have these half doors with warmer weather right around the corner out here in the PNW. I’ll just have to revive the half door uppers and head to the hardware store for an Allen bolt that went missing for the louver.
I ended up re-painting the door panels and re-key the tumblers (the member that posted how to do it can be found here) to work with my ignition key. I accidentally broke the “ear” to the lock/unlock portion of the latch assembly while removing the interior door latch. After seeing the price for a replacement I ended up jimmy riggin’ the ear with a little bit of JB plastic weld and a couple zip ties… so far it’s holding strong! 😂
Excited to have these half doors with warmer weather right around the corner out here in the PNW. I’ll just have to revive the half door uppers and head to the hardware store for an Allen bolt that went missing for the louver.
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OP
OP
I was finally able to bring in the rig to a friend and have the old SkyJacker Long Arm removed and the lower control arm brackets welded back in. The long arm was left in disarray, an example was the Upper CA Brackets being re-drilled to fit the OEM Upper CA’s in the front and rear and likely most of the aftermarket CA bushings shot.
With that out of the way the Currie Control Arms went on, new JKS rear trackbar, new front sway bars, new bumpstop bushings, as well as replacing the Terraflex Skid Plate for the Aluminum Skid from UCF.
Next up will be removing the drop pitman arm/front track bar drop bracket and putting back the original pitman arm and new JKS front track bar. Followed by installing he engine skid plate, relocation the rear coil spring bracket upright, new rear sway bars, replace the ball joints, and install the BMB kit w/ Sway Bar Brackets relocated for the Currie tie rod flip.
The ride quality is already leaps and bounds from what it was when originally purchased and will only get better after this is done. I’m exited how far along it’s come within a year! 😬
With that out of the way the Currie Control Arms went on, new JKS rear trackbar, new front sway bars, new bumpstop bushings, as well as replacing the Terraflex Skid Plate for the Aluminum Skid from UCF.
Next up will be removing the drop pitman arm/front track bar drop bracket and putting back the original pitman arm and new JKS front track bar. Followed by installing he engine skid plate, relocation the rear coil spring bracket upright, new rear sway bars, replace the ball joints, and install the BMB kit w/ Sway Bar Brackets relocated for the Currie tie rod flip.
The ride quality is already leaps and bounds from what it was when originally purchased and will only get better after this is done. I’m exited how far along it’s come within a year! 😬
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Therbytj
Member