My Dream LJR

[MikeE024]

man this is a clean build, i need to tidy up my jeep after seeing this.

How do those falcon shocks ride with the currie springs?

I’m also curious how you like the shocks @Sgt Jarhead

Do you believe the hood louver helps lower your engine bay temps with the turbo or do u find it to be more fo looks? I wondered what it would look like paint matched and you showed me (looks super nice).

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

man this is a clean build, i need to tidy up my jeep after seeing this.

How do those falcon shocks ride with the currie springs?

Thank you!

The combination rides extremely well!

Though the only down side, the Falcon Shocks are set up for a 3-4” lift. With the Currie springs though I need 3-4” of bumpstops as the shocks are the limiting factor. So I’ll likely be selling the shocks sometime in the near future and likely outboard the new seat of shocks I purchase.

@Mikee024 as for the hood louvre I purchased I believe it did alleviate the temperature under the hood. I did the same thing for my previous TJ while running the Banks Turbo and it made quite a difference!

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

Well, she went back to being a floater when I found out a co-worker of mine can weld. He was able to assist with installing the BMB Sway Bar Relocation brackets referring to @hosejockey61 video, as well as relocating the rear upper spring perch upright.

While at it I replaced the ball joints with Spicers, and was finally able to swap over to the Big Brake Kit from BMB.

I’ve been waiting on the sway bars to be relocated because a while back I sent out the D/S BMB Knuckle to Mr. Blaine so I can do the OTK Tie Rod Flip with the Currie Steering.

With all the “major” work out of the way, my motivation was through the roof finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. The ORO Swayloc I had sitting in the garage for months went on after everything else was accomplished.

The PSC Front Bumper went on with its Warn 9.5CTI Winch and Shackles, Black Oak Pod Lights, Factory 55 Flatlink, Fairlead, and bolt locks. The front bumper will likely stay until a Savvy (Zavvy?) front bumper ever returns in stock.

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

I’m amazed how far she’s come in just over a year. I was beginning to feel like I’ve put her in the back burner with how long she’s sat on the driveway. Though looking back at my thread I realized I’ve kept a somewhat steady pace with this build.

The next step is to get an alignment done and will be adding the engine skid plate, and wiring various accessories such as rock lights, ARB Compressor, etc.

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

Probably should’ve done this a long time ago though luckily haven’t put many miles since buying the rig.

I removed the rear differential cover to replace the fluid and add a Lube Locker Gasket. I quickly realized the fluid hasn’t been replaced in a long time… the magnet caught quite a bit of metal shavings due to lack of service.

I also noted a single tooth on the outside of the ring gear was chipped but didn’t find any other damage while inspecting the rest of the differential. I didn’t notice any odd wear other than what I believe a shim slightly sticking out near the driver side.

Would this be something of concern or can I slap it back together and run it?

On a positive note, the diff’s have been re-geared to 4.88!

 

[LONGJP2]

Would this be something of concern or can I slap it back together and run it?

If it's still open, I would replace the rubber air hose.
That oem formed hose won't last forever.
IIRC, 3/16 (clear) fuel line works.

 

[Mike_H]

Aftermarket locker?

To me, if the diff is spitting shims, it means the pre-load isn't high enough. Unfortunately, those shim kits are $$$. You probably only need a thou per side too, to keep em in. Shims come 0.003 min, though, which means you'll need to rebuilt the whole stack. Its a lot of work, but its also something that should be fixed.

I'd also ditch the factory rubber line and put a proper bulkhead fitting on.

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

Aftermarket locker?

To me, if the diff is spitting shims, it means the pre-load isn't high enough. Unfortunately, those shim kits are $$$. You probably only need a thou per side too, to keep em in. Shims come 0.003 min, though, which means you'll need to rebuilt the whole stack. Its a lot of work, but its also something that should be fixed.

I'd also ditch the factory rubber line and put a proper bulkhead fitting on.

I didn’t realize it may have been aftermarket until you mentioned it…
I assumed it was the stock locker until I just now started looking at Google images

It might be an ARB based on photos though am not 100% certain.

I sincerely appreciate the input, I’ll have to find out who in my area can teach me/accomplish this.

 

[Mike_H]

I didn’t realize it may have been aftermarket until you mentioned it…
I assumed it was the stock locker until I just now started looking at Google images

It might be an ARB based on photos though am not 100% certain.

I sincerely appreciate the input, I’ll have to find out who in my area can teach me/accomplish this.

I'd guess ARB as well. Nice thing about that is it should be easy to get the rest of the parts you need for a "proper" installation. Do you have another air compressor on board though? The factory system operates at 5 psi or so and IIRC, ARB needs 50 PSI.

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

I'd guess ARB as well. Nice thing about that is it should be easy to get the rest of the parts you need for a "proper" installation. Do you have another air compressor on board though? The factory system operates at 5 psi or so and IIRC, ARB needs 50 PSI.

I do have an ARB Air Compressor and a spare ARB Air Locker accessory pack hidden somewhere in my garage.

 

[MikeE024]

I'd guess ARB as well. Nice thing about that is it should be easy to get the rest of the parts you need for a "proper" installation. Do you have another air compressor on board though? The factory system operates at 5 psi or so and IIRC, ARB needs 50 PSI.

I was wondering about the air compressor as well.

Can’t comment about the chip being ok or not. I’m interested to hear the answer.

You now have a LL and non-synthetic is cheap enough that you could do another change sooner rather than later to flush out more nasties and then inspect again for evidence for further cracking. That’s what I would do if I didn’t change the gears. But I’d probably want to get new gears in the rear. The gears are already paid for if u have an ARB lol.

What Locker is in the front? And are the front gears in good shape?

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

I was wondering about the air compressor as well.

Can’t comment about the chip being ok or not. I’m interested to hear the answer.

You now have a LL and non-synthetic is cheap enough that you could do another change sooner rather than later to flush out more nasties and then inspect again for evidence for further cracking. That’s what I would do if I didn’t change the gears. But I’d probably want to get new gears in the rear. The gears are already paid for if u have an ARB lol.

What Locker is in the front? And are the front gears in good shape?

Yeah I threw in the new fluid for now and will likely run it for a bit before doing another flush.

As for the front differential I’ll be pulling it tomorrow and see what it has in store for me.

More than likely I’ll just have the rear re-done using Revolution Gears.

 

[MikeE024]

Yeah I threw in the new fluid for now and will likely run it for a bit before doing another flush.

As for the front differential I’ll be pulling it tomorrow and see what it has in store for me.

More than likely I’ll just have the rear re-done using Revolution Gears.

Hopefully, things look good up front.

It won't hurt to remove the rear fluid, but it also makes sense to hold off if you plan to swap the gears soon. Really depends on what you want to do.

I've been very happy with my R&G gears. I had the REM finish done but still followed normal break-in then did two flushes in the rear (the second flush looked nice and clear). Having the REM done was my insurance policy in case I didn't do the break-in procedure correctly.

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

Hopefully, things look good up front.

It won't hurt to remove the rear fluid, but it also makes sense to hold off if you plan to swap the gears soon. Really depends on what you want to do.

I've been very happy with my R&G gears. I had the REM finish done but still followed normal break-in then did two flushes in the rear (the second flush looked nice and clear). Having the REM done was my insurance policy in case the gears wouldn't have been otherwise broken in properly.

Forgot about the REM process. I’ll have to keep that in mind when I pull the trigger. I originally wasn’t aware of the gears and locker being done. I came in with the thought it was on 4.10’s and OE lockers so overall it was a pleasant surprise so far lol

Worst case, if I have to do both I may consider jumping up to 5.13’s.

 

[MikeE024]

Forgot about the REM process. I’ll have to keep that in mind when I pull the trigger.

FYI, the REM'd gears are marketed as not needing to be broken in. I'm the weirdo who decided to play it safe and attempt to follow the normal schedule. I figured it couldn't hurt.

I originally wasn’t aware of the gears and locker being done. I came in with the thought it was on 4.10’s and OE lockers so overall it was a pleasant surprise so far lol

Worst case, if I have to do both I may consider jumping up to 5.13’s.

Pretty sweet it came with the extra goodies. Do you have an air-on switch along with F/R locker switches or do you only have F/R locker switches? I'm curious about how your setup works.

I didn't realize you six-speed guys ever ran 5.13s with 35s. If you could use some extra juice you can always toss that turbo back on.

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

FYI, the REM'd gears are marketed as not needing to be broken in. I'm the weirdo who decided to play it safe and attempt to follow the normal schedule. I figured it couldn't hurt.



Pretty sweet it came with the extra goodies. Do you have an air-on switch along with F/R locker switches or do you only have F/R locker switches? I'm curious about how your setup works.

I didn't realize you six-speed guys ever ran 5.13s with 35s. If you could use some extra juice you can always toss that turbo back on.

I have a Infinite Off-Road “SPOD” that’s ran to the ARB air compressor, and a wiring harness that connects the two as well as air locker actuators.

I believe when I looked over re-gearing charts on here it mentioned either 4.88/5.13 being good for the 4.0/NSG370 Combo. If/when I pull the trigger on installing the turbo the 4.88 gears would likely be the better choice!

 

[MikeE024]

I have a Infinite Off-Road “SPOD” that’s ran to the ARB air compressor, and a wiring harness that connects the two as well as air locker actuators.

I believe when I looked over re-gearing charts on here it mentioned either 4.88/5.13 being good for the 4.0/NSG370 Combo. If/when I pull the trigger on installing the turbo the 4.88 gears would likely be the better choice!

I just compared our RPMs. The 4.88s definitely look like a better pairing with the turbo. Lol

As a reference, with 4.88s, I believe you'll rev about 250 more RPMs than I do with 5.38s on 35s at 70 mph. Running 5.13s would put you at like 450 more RPMs than me lol.

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

Pulled the front differential cover and overall it looked much better than the rear. The front has the original Rubicon locker and of course 4.88 gears.

Oil was pretty old though not as much metal in the magnet of the fill plug.

After cleaning it out I threw on the Lube Locker gasket.

 

[Sgt Jarhead]

I just compared our RPMs. The 4.88s definitely look like a better pairing with the turbo. Lol

As a reference, with 4.88s, I believe you'll rev about 250 more RPMs than I do with 5.38s on 35s at 70 mph. Running 5.13s would put you at like 450 more RPMs than me lol.

I appreciate that!

 

[MikeE024]

Pulled the front differential cover and overall it looked much better than the rear. The front has the original Rubicon locker and of course 4.88 gears.

Oil was pretty old though not as much metal in the magnet of the fill plug.

After cleaning it out I threw on the Lube Locker gasket.

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I'm curious about your locker setup. Do you have a rubicon locker pump for the front and the ARB pump plumbed to the rear? So you have to turn on your ARB compressor via a switch and then the rear locker via another switch?

I ask because folks have mentioned that the ARB locker requires a much higher pressure to engage than the 5 psi rubilocker pump.