My LJ Thread - A MrBlaine Spec'ed LJ Build for Daily Driving and Weekend Adventure

UND_Sioux said:
It appears (could be wrong) that the rear flares were cut (notched) slightly to sit flat on the tub body over the Savvy sliders. Am I seeing things?
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Maybe, the only notching I ever do is to trim off a small bit of the lip that turns inward. I don't ever trim away any of the flat part that the fasteners go through.
 
UND_Sioux said:
@mrblaine Any tricks trimming those rear fender flares around the sliders?
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Lots of people (myself including) think you should trim the flares up to be flush to the body over a slider. In practice though, the little gap it creates is really minor and not noticeable. I've thought about this 6 ways from Sunday, and without doing a TON of work, you'll make everything worse by trimming that back wall away.

The only way I can come up with to achieve a fully flat flare with a slider that goes under it would be to cut the flange off the flare where the slider goes. You would then need to plastic weld or use some sort of adhesive to reattach the flange to the flare, 3/16" of an inch offset from its previous position. Now you'll have a 3/16" gap at the "top" of the tab...so you need to try and fill that in, or have a very floppy tab. Finally, I believe that after all that work, the tab will still be fragile and break at the slightest bump offroad (or errant shopping cart).
 
Mike_H said:
Lots of people (myself including) think you should trim the flares up to be flush to the body over a slider. In practice though, the little gap it creates is really minor and not noticeable. I've thought about this 6 ways from Sunday, and without doing a TON of work, you'll make everything worse by trimming that back wall away.

The only way I can come up with to achieve a fully flat flare with a slider that goes under it would be to cut the flange off the flare where the slider goes. You would then need to plastic weld or use some sort of adhesive to reattach the flange to the flare, 3/16" of an inch offset from its previous position. Now you'll have a 3/16" gap at the "top" of the tab...so you need to try and fill that in, or have a very floppy tab. Finally, I believe that after all that work, the tab will still be fragile and break at the slightest bump offroad (or errant shopping cart).
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Or, you can have some 3/16" black ABS laser cut to fit the flare perfectly and space it out where the slider backer isn't. It is going to look like you spaced the flare out with 3/16" thick black ABS but hey, at least you won't have a gap.
 
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Longwhitejeep said:
Tub armor fixes it too!

This build along with @Midnight LJR build are dream builds of mine. Once funding catches up to aspirations.
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Rumors of my demise have been greatly exaggerated!

Glad you like the Jeep, this one inspired mine as well, and did try to put a little bit of my own spin on it.

Blaine and I still do need to talk about something to give it a bit more power to match his suspension though.
 
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Midnight LJR said:
Blaine and I still do need to talk about something to give it a bit more power to match his suspension though.
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ObiWanWebWheelr said:
It has been a little too long since my last post and this thread needs an update. With the holiday season here I've got a little time to kill and figured I would get some of the latest pictures of the project online. I'm quite pleased with the way it is coming together.

The front shock towers came out looking awesome. I like the way it blends in so well with the existing spring perch. It has that almost factory look to it having been well thought out.

View attachment 27540

View attachment 27541

Same with the rear out boarding, gets the shock where you need it to improve the handling. Might as well dampen the spring-mass system closer to the outside where your lever arm is longer with respect to the suspension roll center.

View attachment 27542
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Been bouncing around several threads and landed here, Great stuff. My LJ rebuild is to the point of outboarding front and rear. My question is, even after measuring your up and down travel, do I need to pick the shock length before I weld the new towers or weld in the towers and then find the correct shock lengths? I'm sure it's a combination.?
 
CAR-MAN said:
Been bouncing around several threads and landed here, Great stuff. My LJ rebuild is to the point of outboarding front and rear. My question is, even after measuring your up and down travel, do I need to pick the shock length before I weld the new towers or weld in the towers and then find the correct shock lengths? I'm sure it's a combination.?
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You can't build the shock towers without having the shocks in hand to know how to position the towers.
 
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jjvw said:
You can't build the shock towers without having the shocks in hand to know how to position the towers.
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Still kind of a gamble on length? Even if you cycle your suspension? Your up travel is fixed. Down on a long arm kit will most likely be set by limiting straps.? So I will have to pick a shock length and then set the towers to that.?
 
CAR-MAN said:
Still kind of a gamble on length? Even if you cycle your suspension? Your up travel is fixed. Down on a long arm kit will most likely be set by limiting straps.? So I will have to pick a shock length and then set the towers to that.?
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You should start a thread in general discussion asking for some help in figuring this out because you are in serious need of it.
 
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