This post will help you my lost soul....I was once lost, then I found this forum...Now, I have spent $14K on a Jeep that I bought for $13K....
New Axle Advice for 35s
- Thread starter The06LJ
- Start date
I’ll be the lone voice of 5.13 for 35s on the 6spd. I went there because I drive up a good number of inclines and am happy I did. I sit pretty comfortably in the power band up to about 80mph.
Anyone nearby is welcome to test drive it, but I’d suspect 4.88 would be just a touch too low and 5.38 would be a bit too steep for the Highway on 35s and an NSG370.
Anyone nearby is welcome to test drive it, but I’d suspect 4.88 would be just a touch too low and 5.38 would be a bit too steep for the Highway on 35s and an NSG370.
Disclaimer: I've never run RCVs.
They seem to be really stout axle shafts which are overkill (in my opinion) for most TJs on 35" tires. That being said, I do have a few friends that run RCVs on their JK & JL Unlimited rigs on 37" tires and they seem to hold up very well. Different Jeeps though, different game.
I have a buddy who stepped up to RCVs, because he was regularly breaking outer u joints. He has no more problems with that. I do however wonder what will go next!
Yes, that would be a concern. I suppose it all depends on how the rig is built and how heavy the driver's foot can get?
IIRC RCV main advantage is the continued strength even while turning. shafts that use u-joints are weaker while turning.
With your 3.73s this is what you currently run at 70mph:
4.56s
4.88s
The nice part about your trans is you have so many forward speeds. You can test drive your freeway gear ratios ahead of time.
For 4.56, hit the freeway at 70 in 5th gear.
5.13s will be 3000 RPM at 70. So that would be your current setup in 4th gear at 67 mph. Use a GPS or Google maps for your speed, unless you fixed your speedo.
When I drove across the country in mine, and the 42RLE downshifted, I found myself dropping the speed down to hit 2800 rpms. Comfort/noise was much better. If you go with 5.13s, you won't be able to get away from 3000 rpm all day across the plains. 4.88s will give you the opportunity to drop the RPMs a bit on the long flat stretches.
4.56s
4.88s
The nice part about your trans is you have so many forward speeds. You can test drive your freeway gear ratios ahead of time.
For 4.56, hit the freeway at 70 in 5th gear.
5.13s will be 3000 RPM at 70. So that would be your current setup in 4th gear at 67 mph. Use a GPS or Google maps for your speed, unless you fixed your speedo.
When I drove across the country in mine, and the 42RLE downshifted, I found myself dropping the speed down to hit 2800 rpms. Comfort/noise was much better. If you go with 5.13s, you won't be able to get away from 3000 rpm all day across the plains. 4.88s will give you the opportunity to drop the RPMs a bit on the long flat stretches.
Another vote for 5.13s. Dont be afraid of 3k rpms. They wont hurt a thing.
I'm all for low gearing, more than most usually, but I think we need to know what the power increase planned will be before we can really recommend a ratio. If it's going to be a decent size V8, then 5.13 with the 6 speed may not be the best choice...I could see his originally chosen 4.56 being good with most V8s and the low 0.84 ratio of the 6th gear (or if he's changing transmissions then that needs to be evaluated too).
Completely different trans here, but I'm geared one step over stock and I run about about 3200 rpm at 65, not a big problem for me in Oregon though. The extra torque from being geared higher is very enjoyable and the higher rpms is nothing to worry about. I've done six 24 hour trips of non stop 3200 rpm, absolutely zero problems.
So for your setup I'd also recommend 5.13 on 35's
So for your setup I'd also recommend 5.13 on 35's
rustygastank
TJ Enthusiast
I have Dana 30 and 35 with 4.88 gears 17" wheels 35" mud tires powered by the 4.0 with a 5 speed ax-15.
I run 65 mph at about 2500 rpm on flat freeway.
going up long steep its screaming at 4000 rpm and maybe pushing 50mph.
I run 65 mph at about 2500 rpm on flat freeway.
going up long steep its screaming at 4000 rpm and maybe pushing 50mph.
has something changed? I've seen here and seemingly in several other places that RGA rear axles are 4340 but their site says 4340 for the front and 4140 for the rear.
Well, the work has begun. I appreciate all the advice here, I ended up going with Yukon 4.88s, eaton Elockers and RCVs in the front, and yukon 4340s in the rear. Had the driveshafts rejointed and balanced and got the Vanco Super 16 kit. Topped it off with new unit bearings and ball joints and yukon diff covers. So when this is done, driveline should be all new from the tcase to the tires. And I think most of all, I'm looking forward to the brakes.
Yes that's fine and a good combination. And you can save a bunch of $$$ if you go for RGA's import version. Its warranty is "only" 10 years vs. Lifetime but they're pretty much the same axle shaft.
Yes, HTF could you tell that lol? They were fine but being they were steel they were heavy. I later swapped them for Savvy's aluminum corner guards.
I’m wanting to do the round tail lights plus I have some rust under the license plate,(gonna move it to the spare)they have a tail and separate reverse light,do you think those lights are any good,says lifetime
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