New tie rod advice needed

04LJ

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2018
Messages
99
Location
Chicago
Hello. I am new to forum. Fairly novice to working on my vehicle. This is my 6th jeep now and it is not a daily driver. Not driven in winter only spring thru fall. Anyway, I’ve looked thru forums and other advice and I think one of the first things I would like to add is better steering components. Currie, ZJ tie rod seems good. I like Currie And was wondering how the install is. I think I can do it. I have replaced the oil pan, trans lines, and this weekend pulled the left rear axle shaft and had a shop press in the seals and bearings and then I re installed it. So, is doing the steering myself doable? And what is a good kit and are there any other things to improve there while I’m saving up for the parts? Already installed a rubicon express stabilizer. Thanks much
 
Take it from someone who has run the Currie tie rod (and installed it), you can install it in about 1 hour tops. Seriously, it's ridiculously easy to install. Just make sure after you're done you align your TJ using this procedure: How to align your Jeep Wrangler TJ

If you are a good DIY mechanic, this is one of the easier things you can do.

As for anything else to improve, maybe new brakes if you're in need of them.
 
If you can do an that other work, then steering will be easy. Use a big hammer to snack the steering knuckle, but not the threaded stud itself.

What size tire are you running? The ZJ tie rod is good for 33s. Currie is recommended at 35s.
 
If you can do an that other work, then steering will be easy. Use a big hammer to snack the steering knuckle, but not the threaded stud itself.

@mrblaine showed me an interesting trick. If you take a decent sized center punch and place it right in the middle of the threaded stud (I believe there's an indentation there that it sits in perfectly) and give it a good smack with a big hammer, it knocks it right out without damaging the threads.

I was having trouble hitting the knuckles on mine since it seemed to be seized on there. It tried Blaine's method and it came right out the first time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 04LJ
@mrblaine showed me an interesting trick. If you take a decent sized center punch and place it right in the middle of the threaded stud (I believe there's an indentation there that it sits in perfectly) and give it a good smack with a big hammer, it knocks it right out without damaging the threads.

I was having trouble hitting the knuckles on mine since it seemed to be seized on there. It tried Blaine's method and it came right out the first time.
I read about that recently. I'll try it out next time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Take it from someone who has run the Currie tie rod (and installed it), you can install it in about 1 hour tops. Seriously, it's ridiculously easy to install. Just make sure after you're done you align your TJ using this procedure: How to align your Jeep Wrangler TJ

If you are a good DIY mechanic, this is one of the easier things you can do.

As for anything else to improve, maybe new brakes if you're in need of them.
Thanks very much. I’ll look at the brakes and see if they need to be done too
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
If you can do an that other work, then steering will be easy. Use a big hammer to snack the steering knuckle, but not the threaded stud itself.

What size tire are you running? The ZJ tie rod is good for 33s. Currie is recommended at 35s.
I have 33in tires on 15 x 10 Rims On a tight budget for now but would be able to save for the Currie. Think it’s 550$
 
@mrblaine showed me an interesting trick. If you take a decent sized center punch and place it right in the middle of the threaded stud (I believe there's an indentation there that it sits in perfectly) and give it a good smack with a big hammer, it knocks it right out without damaging the threads.

I was having trouble hitting the knuckles on mine since it seemed to be seized on there. It tried Blaine's method and it came right out the first time.
Good method, even easier, turn the nut over so the solid side is up. Thread it almost all the way flush with the top of the threads and hit it. When the joint drops out the nut catches it and you won't screw up the threads as you are hitting the nut.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 04LJ and Chris
I have 33in tires on 15 x 10 Rims On a tight budget for now but would be able to save for the Currie. Think it’s 550$
The Currie won't really benefit you unless you are spending time in the rocks. The cost difference between it and the ZJ is pretty significant. Plus it is designed for lifts in the 4" range. The ZJ is more than sufficient for most on 33s. Just things to consider.
 
  • Like
Reactions: skrelnik
The Currie won't really benefit you unless you are spending time in the rocks. The cost difference between it and the ZJ is pretty significant. Plus it is designed for lifts in the 4" range. The ZJ is more than sufficient for most on 33s. Just things to consider.
Thanks. Where would I be able to get the ZJ tie rod new? Do I need a new drag link too? Thanks again
 
  • Like
Reactions: CodaMan and 04LJ
I never quite understood what the extra ES3096L tie-rod end was for - if you are only changing the tie rod; you only need one. The joint at the pitman arm to drag link is the same part, so maybe the write-up was done with that in mind?
 
The ZJ steering is a solid upgrade--I wheeled and DD'd mine on 33s for 3 years with no issue until I found a deal on the currie steering.

Heres the difference between the zj and the currie steering though. Its a monster.

IMG-0929-1.JPG
 
Thanks
The ZJ steering is a solid upgrade--I wheeled and DD'd mine on 33s for 3 years with no issue until I found a deal on the currie steering.

Heres the difference between the zj and the currie steering though. Its a monster.

View attachment 43921
for the pic. I may save up for the Currie depending on other things I want to update. I’ll inspect the front brakes and if they need to be replaced I will put money there and get the crown kit for steering. If they are ok, I will most likely get the Currie.
 
Well looked at the brakes today. Front pads and rotors look good, no scoring on the rotors and pads have plenty of life left. The rears are the same, a bit of wear on the left inner pad. Thats where i had the axle seal leak and maybe caused more wear? not sure...Anyway, I am seriously looking at the currie. Seems to make sense if i decide to go to 35's in the future. Its good to know that either way u all have great advice