NP231 doubler / crawlbox

Wildman said:
@Gollywomper should be able to answer this?
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The flip kit I used adds a bit of height to the 300. Without a doubler you should have no problems getting to a flattish skid. With a doubler and a flipped 300 with the flip kit I used you might have to massage the floor a tad. I have no idea about the Midnight case. But it should be good as well.
 
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Gollywomper said:
The flip kit I used adds a bit of height to the 300. Without a doubler you should have no problems getting to a flattish skid. With a doubler and a flipped 300 with the flip kit I used you might have to massage the floor a tad. I have no idea about the Midnight case. But it should be good as well.
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Cool. I'll stick with waiting on a Savvy skid.
 
update: case is painted and home. it's a fugly camo/pea green but the shop gave me lots of old paint they can't use anymore and this was the least conspicuous choice.
got all the aluminum seal flanges cleaned up better than i thought i could, they are not perfect, but not bad enough to warrant replacing. still kinda bugs me, so i may just shoot um flat black.
did find 1 yoke has been broken, 1 of the joint retainer nubs is busted/chipped and the other is just not there, so i'll steal it from the other case if it's good. i was kinda worried about the input, it was crusty. but it ended up cleaning up well too, that stock 31 spline input is one of the most expensive parts for this case, the dam 32spline input upgrade is cheaper at that point but then won't jive with the Frogfab kit.

now that video i posted of that 205 rebuild, that guy used goo on all the gaskets............the factory didn't use anything but the paper. in the old days we might use some Indian head on the thermostat or water pump gasket but not much else.

gooo or no gooo? this is not a pressure unit, i don't see the need to glue it together.
 
someguysjeep said:
update: case is painted and home. it's a fugly camo/pea green but the shop gave me lots of old paint they can't use anymore and this was the least conspicuous choice.
got all the aluminum seal flanges cleaned up better than i thought i could, they are not perfect, but not bad enough to warrant replacing. still kinda bugs me, so i may just shoot um flat black.
did find 1 yoke has been broken, 1 of the joint retainer nubs is busted/chipped and the other is just not there, so i'll steal it from the other case if it's good. i was kinda worried about the input, it was crusty. but it ended up cleaning up well too, that stock 31 spline input is one of the most expensive parts for this case, the dam 32spline input upgrade is cheaper at that point but then won't jive with the Frogfab kit.

now that video i posted of that 205 rebuild, that guy used goo on all the gaskets............the factory didn't use anything but the paper. in the old days we might use some Indian head on the thermostat or water pump gasket but not much else.

gooo or no gooo? this is not a pressure unit, i don't see the need to glue it together.
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I've always had good luck with Indian head and paper gaskets on water pumps and case halves. I'd do that in a heartbeat. You don't need the gap filling ability of RTV.
 
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TY all, so the consensus is to use something in addition to the paper, i guess.

those dam aluminum bits were buggin me and i really don't wanna paint um, so i picked up a small HF blaster and some glass beads..............now them bitches are clean. still a dark dull grey, but nice and clean and i'm cool with that.

was about 30$ for the gun and media, less than the cost of 1 of those fancy billet pieces i keep lookin at.
worked well with the pulverized glass . spotless with no evidence of use on the subject, the glass doesn't scar the soft material.

blaster2.PNG
 
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someguysjeep said:
TY all, so the consensus is to use something in addition to the paper, i guess.

those dam aluminum bits were buggin me and i really don't wanna paint um, so i picked up a small HF blaster and some glass beads..............now them bitches are clean. still a dark dull grey, but nice and clean and i'm cool with that.

was about 30$ for the gun and media, less than the cost of 1 of those fancy billet pieces i keep lookin at.
worked well with the pulverized glass . spotless with no evidence of use on the subject, the glass doesn't scar the soft material.

View attachment 313994
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ok so i'm just gonna bring up small things i find i have issue with in this video. the 1st issue was him needing to remove those snap rings off the bearing to remove them.......BZZZZZ, not needed for removal.

next up is in the rebuild about 14:20 in, he puts the tail housing onto the gear set then knocks that bearing in. the problem to me is the housing then sits on the gear. there is a cast piece on the tail that protrudes like an L and it's smashed into the gear when he knocks the bearing in, and the housing doesn't turn, since it makes contact.
what needs to happen is the bearing gets knocked in 1st, and seated. this controls the depth the tail sits at and holds that L casting off the gear and the housing spins nicely. not sure how he seated that bearing like that.

 
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next up is this surprise i missed b4, i can see and feel a ridge, so it's not worthy.
25$ from offroaddesign. the other is fine and both collars show no signs of wear, so just a single fork.

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alright, still wet out so playin with the TC for now. next issue up is video #3 about 00:20 in.


1st the ford gears fit in and out much easier from the other hole, ( the front output side). they don't have room to scoot through the case from the input /rear output side.

then i have 3 shims on each side of the spacer, 1st all drawings i find show they can be 1 side or the other, they don't have to be split up. next is that chunk of cardboard, needed for assembly so you can keep the bottom end bearing up. i had to keep the assy at the far end of the cardboard and bend the edge up. it has to negotiate over the rise of the case pilot.

but if i got room for a sheet of cardboard, WTF are the shims doin, certainly not holding the thing tight in the case? the pin bottoms out in a dugout, so does this depend on case deflection once that pin is torqued to close that gap? seems odd to me since there could be as much as 1/8" of float there..

i got my main pin to slide in without pounding it through shims like @ 3:12. it does need tapped through the case on the other side.
 
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next issue comes at 10:05. the bearing slides on easily......he then proceeds to bash it through the inside of the case.

Bzzzzz. not needed, put the snap ring on the bearing, put the bearing in the case (i bumped it down by hand), then slide the shaft in and put on the outer snap.

he needs his hammer privileges revoked.

i'm halted until i get a shift fork. already ordered, they were 22.50 ea from Allstate gear, so i got 2 (i'll fresh both of these and save the good 1 for the other case, just in case).. offroad design had um for 25$ but don't have them labeled as in stock or not, so i'm not taking chances and went with a supplier that does list them in stock.
the piece is stamped with G97827 the equivalent is #2954135. in the Ford married TC it's same fork both sides, not all others are.
 
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new fork vs old. and a new 1/4" homemade aluminum PTO cover vs the old pitted poo.

started messin with the TC and while the Broncograveyard has certainly been quick with the shipping, they got me..............the dam shift rail kit is &^$#% GM and not what i ordered or what they say on the invoice, but somebody pulled the wrong kit, unlike shift forks these are not mirror images and not interchangeable,
gonna take a call to fix.... kicker is the finish was rough on the short rod so i had to polish it, sure they won't be fond of that. the rest of the kit is all the same seals, detents, so it's just the dam rods.

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TBH this kinda erked me, so i cleaned up the OE rods and used those to get a bit more assembled. the mod can be done to a complete case without teardown so i can change the rods later. a few of my new bolts are a tad longer then OE and they bottom out in a couple blind holes, so i'll grab some lock washers and it'll be fine. i have 1 through hole that if the fastener runs to deep it can contact a gear, but again just a lock washer should be enough.
 
so this sounds like it's gonna be some BS.
Broncograveyard says "ya bet they sent over a wrong 1 in the box maybe".
then he's proceeds to tell me there is not much he can do. and i should email him the problem and some pics of the stuff and if JB fabrications, the co he bought his stock from will agree to fix it for him, then he'll fix it for me.

it's better it was a phone call, or i mighta pulled some SOB over a counter for an answer like that. good customer service is here you go, sorry we screwed you up and we'll handle the rest. this was not a 3rd party order this came off your shelf.

so now i sit and wait.


edited:
am i the ass here?
i know they do not make the parts, but they do stock the parts, they did pull and ship the (wrong) parts.
ultimately the maker sent a piece this vendor should have never gotten, they don't sell the GM kit. but you represent their product as a vendor, why make a customer chase this to it's origin. 1 can only guess they don't check inbound or double check outbound orders. sucks too i want this to work out they get me parts next day, 2 at most and their prices are very reasonable.
 
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well tues i got an e-mail confirming that i was gonna have to wait a bit longer
so i didn't bother to check wed or thurs and missed that JB was gonna cover this and send me the right pieces and a return label for the wrong 1's, until they turned up in the mail today. so i'll be workin on that some tomrw.

so in the end i'm the ass, but the way to chill, maybe we'll get it fixed was not what i wanted to hear last wk.
 
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someguysjeep said:
well tues i got an e-mail confirming that i was gonna have to wait a bit longer
so i didn't bother to check wed or thurs and missed that JB was gonna cover this and send me the right pieces and a return label for the wrong 1's, until they turned up in the mail today. so i'll be workin on that some tomrw.

so in the end i'm the ass, but the way to chill, maybe we'll get it fixed was not what i wanted to hear last wk.
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I would not spend a penny with the folks who said you were on your own. Plenty of good folks to spend money with. Glad you got it resolved.
 
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Gollywomper said:
I would not spend a penny with the folks who said you were on your own. Plenty of good folks to spend money with. Glad you got it resolved.
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he never said i was on my own, but kinda lead me to believe the part had to come from the supplier and not from his stock. he should not even have this part there so it was the supplier that dorked us both, but in the end it got fixed pretty quick , i already got um slid in and the wrong 1's repacked for the mail mon.

i only need a front output 1350 yoke, should be the last piece until i mess with the doubler kit.
 
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