PC1P's 2006 Jeep LJ Build - Brünhilde
- Thread starter pc1p
- Start date
OP
I work from home and anything family related is with the Grand Cherokee - my winter driving will be winter wheeling, playing in the snow, hunting or ice fishing related (and possibly the occasional rescue)...
OP
Already double-coated the floorboards with 3M Pro Undercoating and epoxy paint. Axles are freshly painted with VHT Epoxy paint. I still need to do the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating in the frame rails but I have a heated garage and a garage drain. I'll be dropping a hot-water hose tap nearby soon (previous owner just ran a hose across the floor and into the basement)...
This ain't my first go-round with winter weather and salty roads
OP
It is supposed to be a warm day tomorrow, all the way up to 81º!
While I'm thinking about it - @starkey480 here's a tip... press and hold the "alt" key, then hit '0 1 8 6'
You're welcome!
It is supposed to be a warm day tomorrow, all the way up to 81º!
While I'm thinking about it - @starkey480 here's a tip... press and hold the "alt" key, then hit '0 1 8 6'
81deg ? You must be dying.
Saw over the weekend on craigslist, black 1/2 doors with uppers for $600. Man, I was sitting on me hands trying not to call on them. I gots lots higher on the list to buy than doors.
Edit : Still up
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/pts/d/casa-grande-jeep-tj-half-doors/7372348708.html
OP
Hit a milestone today...
More importantly - that means >200 miles without a single hint of death wobble
Figured it was a good a time as any to attack some of the other items on my list. First up was hooking up my winch. I like using these disconnect switches. If some idiot decides to cut the wires to steal the winch, at least it won't burn down my rig (I've seen it happen). Found a good spot on the inner fender and used some #10 nutserts to make installation easier since I hate having to reach nuts from the bottom ("that's what she said!")...
I need some new 2 AWG wire to feed the disconnect, so once Amazon gets that over to me I should be done with this...
More importantly - that means >200 miles without a single hint of death wobble
Figured it was a good a time as any to attack some of the other items on my list. First up was hooking up my winch. I like using these disconnect switches. If some idiot decides to cut the wires to steal the winch, at least it won't burn down my rig (I've seen it happen). Found a good spot on the inner fender and used some #10 nutserts to make installation easier since I hate having to reach nuts from the bottom ("that's what she said!")...
I need some new 2 AWG wire to feed the disconnect, so once Amazon gets that over to me I should be done with this...
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OP
The weather has been amazing this last month and fall seems to finally be in the air...
It was in the 60ºs this past weekend and looks to be more of the same for the next week. Overnight lows are hitting the 30ºs in some spots, so despite the lovely weather, I know Old Man Winter is just around the corner. As a result, I've been spending a lot of time wrapping up some of the house projects (new interior doors, paint, new trim, etc), while also getting the garage organized and getting my woodworking tools situated again.
I got a good jump on my French Cleat Wall, including a few tool holders and small storage...
Made a flip-top tool cart (with one more on the way for my thickness planar)...
And a drill-press stand with some small parts drawers...
Nothing fancy, just well-built tool storage and cabinets. Now that those are 95% done, I spent this past weekend focusing on the LJ. In typical fashion, I made a list and started to assign priority and target dates:
First up was this f*%$@#* oil pan gasket - for the third time!
Not sure why this is happening. The first time it leaked, I thought it was the oil pan being slightly misshapen. I replaced it and added a new gasket and was super diligent about making sure the gasket was in the groove while I raised the pan in place and still a leak. The gasket looked to be blown out, similar to the first failure but more drastic this time (note that in the photo above, the black goop on the gasket is from a stop-leak that I put in there to at least slow the leak down for a few weeks until I could get to it).
I did a lot of digging and it seems to be a somewhat common issue with no real smoking gun. In digging through, it seems that those who have successfully sealed it up have either skipped using the torque wrench for final tightening or have used some RTV to seal the gasket to the pan first. I decided to do both - a bit of RTV in the corners per the instructions, then a small thin kerf along the pan edge and bearing cap. I installed the pan gently and only snugged in place for a while to allow the RTV to set. I then torque it down by hand until the pan bolts were snug but not overly so. I drove for 45 minutes this weekend and had an ever so slight wet spot on the inspection plate cover, which I think it just remnant oil up in the bellhousing and starter. I have to power wash the underside in preparations for final undercoating and Eastwood Frame Coating this weekend, so I'll hit the bellhousing while I'm down there. Fingers crossed that it appears to be decently fixed this time...
While I was doing the oil pan gasket, I found a shiny spot on the t-case skid. Seems that my cat is every so slightly kissing the skid at times (which explains the weird rattle I would here randomly at idle). A quick hit with my flap disk and it appears to be much improved and I have not heard the rattle again.
The BedRug rear portion finally arrived a few weeks back (it was ordered in April/May!) but I have not yet installed it. I finally took it out of the box to let it breath for a bit and then decided to attack the front. I had heard reports that many people with BedRugs have a hard time with the front, particularly the front driver-side, portion staying in place. My experience was the same. With the PO's previously applied bedliner (I freaking hate that stuff inside!) and my insulation foam, I could not find any Velcro or adhesive to stick to it for long. I decided to give up on that and went with some small zinc-coated sheet metal screws and washers. Now the carpet stays put and I can finally run a floor mat! I hope to get to the rear BedRug install later this week...
I finally found one benefit of my steep and long ass driveway - it's perfect for respooling my winch line!
I figure I have about 2-3 weeks before painting may become questionable, so I hope to get the sliders at least painted and cured by then, same as the frame stiffeners. I'll get to the GTS on Sunday if possible. I think I need to add "Replace Blower Motor" to my list since it's a lot louder than I think it should be and from what I have read, it's probably what caused the resistor bank to fail.
It was in the 60ºs this past weekend and looks to be more of the same for the next week. Overnight lows are hitting the 30ºs in some spots, so despite the lovely weather, I know Old Man Winter is just around the corner. As a result, I've been spending a lot of time wrapping up some of the house projects (new interior doors, paint, new trim, etc), while also getting the garage organized and getting my woodworking tools situated again.
I got a good jump on my French Cleat Wall, including a few tool holders and small storage...
Made a flip-top tool cart (with one more on the way for my thickness planar)...
And a drill-press stand with some small parts drawers...
Nothing fancy, just well-built tool storage and cabinets. Now that those are 95% done, I spent this past weekend focusing on the LJ. In typical fashion, I made a list and started to assign priority and target dates:
First up was this f*%$@#* oil pan gasket - for the third time!
Not sure why this is happening. The first time it leaked, I thought it was the oil pan being slightly misshapen. I replaced it and added a new gasket and was super diligent about making sure the gasket was in the groove while I raised the pan in place and still a leak. The gasket looked to be blown out, similar to the first failure but more drastic this time (note that in the photo above, the black goop on the gasket is from a stop-leak that I put in there to at least slow the leak down for a few weeks until I could get to it).
I did a lot of digging and it seems to be a somewhat common issue with no real smoking gun. In digging through, it seems that those who have successfully sealed it up have either skipped using the torque wrench for final tightening or have used some RTV to seal the gasket to the pan first. I decided to do both - a bit of RTV in the corners per the instructions, then a small thin kerf along the pan edge and bearing cap. I installed the pan gently and only snugged in place for a while to allow the RTV to set. I then torque it down by hand until the pan bolts were snug but not overly so. I drove for 45 minutes this weekend and had an ever so slight wet spot on the inspection plate cover, which I think it just remnant oil up in the bellhousing and starter. I have to power wash the underside in preparations for final undercoating and Eastwood Frame Coating this weekend, so I'll hit the bellhousing while I'm down there. Fingers crossed that it appears to be decently fixed this time...
While I was doing the oil pan gasket, I found a shiny spot on the t-case skid. Seems that my cat is every so slightly kissing the skid at times (which explains the weird rattle I would here randomly at idle). A quick hit with my flap disk and it appears to be much improved and I have not heard the rattle again.
The BedRug rear portion finally arrived a few weeks back (it was ordered in April/May!) but I have not yet installed it. I finally took it out of the box to let it breath for a bit and then decided to attack the front. I had heard reports that many people with BedRugs have a hard time with the front, particularly the front driver-side, portion staying in place. My experience was the same. With the PO's previously applied bedliner (I freaking hate that stuff inside!) and my insulation foam, I could not find any Velcro or adhesive to stick to it for long. I decided to give up on that and went with some small zinc-coated sheet metal screws and washers. Now the carpet stays put and I can finally run a floor mat! I hope to get to the rear BedRug install later this week...
I finally found one benefit of my steep and long ass driveway - it's perfect for respooling my winch line!
I figure I have about 2-3 weeks before painting may become questionable, so I hope to get the sliders at least painted and cured by then, same as the frame stiffeners. I'll get to the GTS on Sunday if possible. I think I need to add "Replace Blower Motor" to my list since it's a lot louder than I think it should be and from what I have read, it's probably what caused the resistor bank to fail.
Nice - I love the French Cleat wall. And that’s quite a cool view you have in your front yard.
Are you doing the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating? I've been thinking of doing this to mine before winter gets hear.
OP
I've always wanted to do a cleat wall, but couldn't justify one in my previous garage space (I did do one in a friends green house and they loved it!). I figured it was worthwhile to try it in this one (even though this garage will be repurposed to lawn/garden supplies once we decide what we're going to do about a shop/casita).
Yup, for the frame: Eastwood on the inside, then the VHT Epoxy on the outside. On the remaining portions of the tub, I will use my tried-and-true 3M Professional Undercoating. I had many vehicles while living in PA originally that I did the paint/undercoating combo and I never had a problem with rust or undercoating issues. I found that if it's properly prepped-for and applied (which many times it isn't!), undercoating holds up much, much better than paint in impact-riddled areas like undersides of tubs and wheel wells. Touch ups are also quite easy (though again, there is some prep work that some people take for granted).
OP
This had to be the easiest HVAC blower replacement in the history of automotive HVAC...
It took a whopping 15 seconds to remove and 30 seconds to install. The blower noise has been eliminated and all I can hear now is the sound of moving air through the ducts and vents (the old one had a very noisy whine!). The new blower also moves a lot more air now, so that's a big plus I wasn't really thinking about...
After waiting over 6 months for it to be delivered and having it in the back of the garage for a few weeks, I finally got around to installed the rear BedRug. I had to plug up the missing body/tub plugs in the rear wheel wells. They're an odd size and I could not locate any proper replacement body plugs, so I did the next best thing - I drilled them out to a common size for easy replacement in the future (if needed). With a 1" step-bit, I centered the bit the best I could, then slowly took off material until the oval became a circle, then simply used the same bit to increase the ID to 1". A little black paint and a new body plug and it was all done. No I can install the rear wheel well liners after I replace the factory GTS with the Savvy unit!
It took a whopping 15 seconds to remove and 30 seconds to install. The blower noise has been eliminated and all I can hear now is the sound of moving air through the ducts and vents (the old one had a very noisy whine!). The new blower also moves a lot more air now, so that's a big plus I wasn't really thinking about...
After waiting over 6 months for it to be delivered and having it in the back of the garage for a few weeks, I finally got around to installed the rear BedRug. I had to plug up the missing body/tub plugs in the rear wheel wells. They're an odd size and I could not locate any proper replacement body plugs, so I did the next best thing - I drilled them out to a common size for easy replacement in the future (if needed). With a 1" step-bit, I centered the bit the best I could, then slowly took off material until the oval became a circle, then simply used the same bit to increase the ID to 1". A little black paint and a new body plug and it was all done. No I can install the rear wheel well liners after I replace the factory GTS with the Savvy unit!
OP
In my hurry to get ready for the move back to the east coast, I never properly adjusted the headlights after swapping the Truck-Lites in place. I matched the height and width of the beam pattern of my wife's 2017 Grand Cherokee (using my garage and grid as a guide) and the results so far have been good.
I took some "long exposure" photos below with my iPhone. Not the best to capture comparative results, but you get the idea of how the cutoff looks and how the lumens fill the woods next to the road...
Low Beams:
High Beams:
Low Beams w/Rigid SAE Fog Cubes:
I'm thinking I'm going to ask Santa for a set of KC HiLiTES 100 SlimLite LEDs to replace the Hella fogs on the pillars (https://www.quadratec.com/p/kc-hilites/slimlite-led-6-inch-pair-pack-100)
I took some "long exposure" photos below with my iPhone. Not the best to capture comparative results, but you get the idea of how the cutoff looks and how the lumens fill the woods next to the road...
Low Beams:
High Beams:
Low Beams w/Rigid SAE Fog Cubes:
I'm thinking I'm going to ask Santa for a set of KC HiLiTES 100 SlimLite LEDs to replace the Hella fogs on the pillars (https://www.quadratec.com/p/kc-hilites/slimlite-led-6-inch-pair-pack-100)
I messed up and got lockers before a light bar.
What must the mall crowd think of me now ?
The LJ is looking good in PA. I had a horrible blower motor too, dealt with it all winter until one day i finally looked it up. I couldn't believe how easy it was to replace. Have you noticed any sound reduction in the back since adding the bedrug? I've been putting off adding the rear for sometime now.
OP
Maybe slightly - with the hardtop and floor matting, the LJ is surprisingly quiet already and even with the new Magnaflow exhaust, it is the quietest Jeep I’ve ever owned. The rear BedRug may have made a slight but measurable difference but I think that was probably more from plugging up the 2 holes in the inner fenders than anything from the BedRug itself.