Pinion nut replacement

[tom1496]

Have a quick question regarding the nut for the pinion. My original nut is stuck in a socket lol Would this new nut with a washer integrated be a suitable replacement?
Part number: Omix-Ada 16584.04

It fits just fine, however just wanted to make sure before i torque down.

 

[tworley]

Edit: that'll work.

The pinion nut is oblong and considered a one time use nut.

 

[tom1496]

Edit: that'll work.

The pinion nut is oblong and considered a one time use nut.

Okay great now should i install the old washer? Or im good without with this flange nut

 

[tworley]

I dont recall a washer. What does the old pinion nut look like? Curious if someone use something different

 

[tom1496]

Heres a couple pictures. I was able to get the old nut out of the socket

 

[hosejockey61]

No on the washer if you're going to use that nut.

 

[hosejockey61]

Even though you got the nut out, use the new one without a washer. Stover nuts are designed for one time use. On a pinion I only one them once. If you reuse a $4 nut and it loosens over time it can destroy your gears which will cost a hell of a lot more to replace.

 

[tom1496]

Even though you got the nut out, use the new one without a washer. Stover nuts are designed for one time use. On a pinion I only one them once. If you reuse a $4 nut and it loosens over time it can destroy your gears which will cost a hell of a lot more to replace.

Ahh makes sense. Okay final question so i marked the nut in relation to the yoke and diff, with this being a new nut what does it need to be torqued down to? Ive read anywhere from 160-220?

 

[hosejockey61]

Ahh makes sense. Okay final question so i marked the nut in relation to the yoke and diff, with this being a new nut what does it need to be torqued down to? Ive read anywhere from 160-220?

Marking the nut in relation to the yoke does absolutely nothing. When doing a re-gear, the difference between 160 and 200 is barely noticeable. I've tried just out of curiosity to mark and then torque to see how close it is and it's not an effective method.

You are correct with the torque spec 160-200. Now the question is, are you dealing with a crush sleeve or a shim pack? if you're dealing with a crush sleeve, you'll need a new one. Then you'll need to get to 16-20 in/lbs rotating torque after the sleeve begins to crush. It takes a LOT sometimes to get a sleeve to crush and other times hardly anything. I've broken a 1/2" ratchet trying to get a sleeve to crush before. Once it does start to crush, make VERY MINUTE adjustments until you get to the 16-20 spec. It doesn't take much at all to over crush a sleeve and have to replace it again.

 

[tom1496]

Marking the nut in relation to the yoke does absolutely nothing. When doing a re-gear, the difference between 160 and 200 is barely noticeable. I've tried just out of curiosity to mark and then torque to see how close it is and it's not an effective method.

You are correct with the torque spec 160-200. Now the question is, are you dealing with a crush sleeve or a shim pack? if you're dealing with a crush sleeve, you'll need a new one. Then you'll need to get to 16-20 in/lbs rotating torque after the sleeve begins to crush. It takes a LOT sometimes to get a sleeve to crush and other times hardly anything. I've broken a 1/2" ratchet trying to get a sleeve to crush before. Once it does start to crush, make VERY MINUTE adjustments until you get to the 16-20 spec. It doesn't take much at all to over crush a sleeve and have to replace it again.

All that has to be done even if i all i did was replace the seal?

 

[hosejockey61]

All that has to be done even if i all i did was replace the seal?

Technically, yes.

What axle? Dana 44 uses shim pack. Dana 30 and Dana 35 use crush sleeve.

 

[tom1496]

Technically, yes.

What axle? Dana 44 uses shim pack. Dana 30 and Dana 35 use crush sleeve.

 

[tom1496]

Its a dana 30.

 

[hosejockey61]

Its a dana 30.

So here's the predicament you are in. Since the Dana 30 uses a crush sleeve it would require installing a new crush sleeve and torquing to spec. What others have done in the past is what you described earlier. They'll re-tighten the original nut until it matches the mark they made. They will use loc-tite to hold it on. The problem is that you don't know what your pre-load really is. But it works for some people some of the time, but not everyone all of the time. I think I made my preference clear but ultimately it is up to you at this point.

$4 pinion nut and $6 crush sleeve or possible $800 for new gear set up.

 

[Lou]

as hose jockey said, marking the nut and reinstalling to where it was before typically works. The right way to do it is to measure your pinion preload before you disassembled it and put a new nut on until you get the same preload as before.

 

[tom1496]

Welp. Okay. I really appreciate the help you guys.