Ohh…those are performance series…little different animals than the ones I rebuilt. Special tools required to blend the pressure and fill. Still rebuildable, just different than the what I did in the thread you were posting in.
Project Basketcase!
- Thread starter Rickyd
- Start date
Ohh…those are performance series…little different animals than the ones I rebuilt. Special tools required to blend the pressure and fill. Still rebuildable, just different than the what I did in the thread you were posting in.
Yep. I plan on adding schrader valves to the reservoir end caps as part of the process. From what I can tell they aren't that different in function and assembly.
They are not. I think they use different pistons, so valving them is different.
Ordered up the parts I'll need for the windstar/ranger intake.
-3"×3.5" 90* silicon elbow at the filter
-2.75"×3" 90* silicon elbow at the throttle body
-a couple different length 3" aluminum 45* elbows as I'm not sure which one I'll use yet,
- 1/2" barbed bulkhead fitting for the pcv hose
-a length of 3" stainless steel pipe with a 45* angle that will get cut down to be the pass through into the cowl.
- 3" silicone straight hose to connect the filter housing to the cowl
The 45* on the stainless pipe is going to be a splash deflector inside the cowl.i also plan on bolting a small plate to the outside of the cowl,drilling the 3" hole through it and the cowl and then welding the pipe to the plate so there is a secure connection at the firewall.
-3"×3.5" 90* silicon elbow at the filter
-2.75"×3" 90* silicon elbow at the throttle body
-a couple different length 3" aluminum 45* elbows as I'm not sure which one I'll use yet,
- 1/2" barbed bulkhead fitting for the pcv hose
-a length of 3" stainless steel pipe with a 45* angle that will get cut down to be the pass through into the cowl.
- 3" silicone straight hose to connect the filter housing to the cowl
The 45* on the stainless pipe is going to be a splash deflector inside the cowl.i also plan on bolting a small plate to the outside of the cowl,drilling the 3" hole through it and the cowl and then welding the pipe to the plate so there is a secure connection at the firewall.
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Also got the currie track bar in this weekend! Had to unbolt the swaybar,shock and pull the coil on the drivers side in order to drop it down for the room I needed to drill the bolt holes for it's bracket.
The old rough country bar would bind up and not even sag down to full extension of the shocks when the jeep was in the air. Now it slips right down to full shock extension. Sure makes getting the coils in and out a lot easier not needing to stand on the axle and force it down.
The rough country bushings all seemed tight but the jeep had a small tail wag in the back over certain sudden bumps at speed. No more!
The rough country bar would also whack the gas tank skid. Now I have plenty of clearance.
Bye to this junk!
The old rough country bar would bind up and not even sag down to full extension of the shocks when the jeep was in the air. Now it slips right down to full shock extension. Sure makes getting the coils in and out a lot easier not needing to stand on the axle and force it down.
The rough country bushings all seemed tight but the jeep had a small tail wag in the back over certain sudden bumps at speed. No more!
The rough country bar would also whack the gas tank skid. Now I have plenty of clearance.
Bye to this junk!
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Ok,one more project done! Windstar intake installed
I cut down a piece of stainless 3" pipe to act as a rain deflector. Got the whole intake clamped in place to set the angle of the pipe and tac welded the backing plate to the tube.then removed and fully welded it. Plate is secured to the firewall with some self tappers. A short section of 3" silicon tubing connects the windstar intake to the firewall tube. Last pic you can kinda see the section of econoline housing with a 3" inlet grafted onto the ranger/windstar housing.
I used red loctite on the pcv 1/2" bulkhead fitting nut.
It is holding itself up off the valve cover so far and no contact with the hood.i'll monitor and come up with a support bracket if needed.
I cut down a piece of stainless 3" pipe to act as a rain deflector. Got the whole intake clamped in place to set the angle of the pipe and tac welded the backing plate to the tube.then removed and fully welded it. Plate is secured to the firewall with some self tappers. A short section of 3" silicon tubing connects the windstar intake to the firewall tube. Last pic you can kinda see the section of econoline housing with a 3" inlet grafted onto the ranger/windstar housing.
I used red loctite on the pcv 1/2" bulkhead fitting nut.
It is holding itself up off the valve cover so far and no contact with the hood.i'll monitor and come up with a support bracket if needed.
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My impressions are a definite whooshing,droning sound at wot,but not obnoxiously loud to me.and more get up and go than I had before with the stroker at higher rpms.
This was done as a supporting mod to the 10.2:1 compression ratio as a way to get cooler air. The seat of the pants power increase is a nice bonus!
This was done as a supporting mod to the 10.2:1 compression ratio as a way to get cooler air. The seat of the pants power increase is a nice bonus!
I noticed more noise at cold startup as well. Probably the idle motor is open further.
Got some almost new rockjock 9131rh rear coils from @rjaym . He shipped them fast and in the original packaging. Thanks!
They are 17" free length and supposedly give 3.5" lift vs the 3" lift 9133 rockjocks(15" free) i have in there now. Just what I was looking for to even out the shock travel of the fox shocks I'm rebuilding.
They are 17" free length and supposedly give 3.5" lift vs the 3" lift 9133 rockjocks(15" free) i have in there now. Just what I was looking for to even out the shock travel of the fox shocks I'm rebuilding.
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Ucf no body lift skid from @Woodrow is in! I've been wanting a mild tuck for a long time now and he gave me a great deal. Thanks woody!
Nice! Functional and aesthetic. The stock skid plate is the biggest eyesore on a TJ to me. Now go find some rocks to bash it on!
i already had all the requisite mods necessary for a tuck.sye,adjustable arms,mml,body lift.It worked out perfectly for a few reasons.
The shifter was hitting the body in second but no more!
Removing the transfercase shift linkage drop plate let the zbar be almost parallel and shift smooth again.
The upper and lower rough country arms are at their limits of thread engagement with jj's.
The exhaust only needed loosened at the header and retightened,partly because of the flex joint i installed.
Any higher tuck and it wouldn't have been a simple Saturday job(cut and weld arms,cable shifter,more exhaust work,etc).
Tcase output was raised 2-1/8" from stock on my 97. Clearance underneath is improved about 2" with a much better profile. Looking forward to trying it out on some berms I usually get snagged on!
The shifter was hitting the body in second but no more!
Removing the transfercase shift linkage drop plate let the zbar be almost parallel and shift smooth again.
The upper and lower rough country arms are at their limits of thread engagement with jj's.
The exhaust only needed loosened at the header and retightened,partly because of the flex joint i installed.
Any higher tuck and it wouldn't have been a simple Saturday job(cut and weld arms,cable shifter,more exhaust work,etc).
Tcase output was raised 2-1/8" from stock on my 97. Clearance underneath is improved about 2" with a much better profile. Looking forward to trying it out on some berms I usually get snagged on!
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I really appreciate it. The community here has many kind generous folks like you
Fixed the smoked hvac blower resistor and pigtail today.
I think I found where the extra resistance was coming from! I bought a ching chong blower motor but didn't install it as the pigtail didn't get hot after this fix
Also cut a 1/4" spacer for the right rear coil
I think I found where the extra resistance was coming from! I bought a ching chong blower motor but didn't install it as the pigtail didn't get hot after this fix
Also cut a 1/4" spacer for the right rear coil
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