Question for the fabricators amongst us

someguysjeep said:
you are correct... sorry for the mistake it was not the actual mount it was the adapter plate.
5/8 worked for me, because i was building around it, another guy tried it and it was a hair to much to pair that much trim to a stock skid and not have a contact point. 3/8 would do fine 1/2 would be real close 5/8 will touch.
Click to expand...
The typical trim centers around reusing the flange head bolts that go into the trans. If you abandon those and go to a flat head zinc plated alloy fastener, then you can trim the U off completely and put a piece of 1/4" plate on there. 1/4" is the thickness of the weld stud heads. Then drill and countersink the plate exactly in the middle of what used to be the two socket access holes.
 
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IIRC i sandwiched 2 plates and drilled the lower plate so the bolt heads fit up inside with minimal protrusion and i had a flat surface to mount to. which never mattered cause those were out front of the rest of it. but the extra 1/4" plate got me just under the TC.

here's a giggle for y'all this is the beam i did 1st. sorry can't find pics of the OE adapter i cut up, or i'm not recognizing it.







tc beam 2.PNG


tc beam 6.PNG
 
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i found it..........i guess i never altered the OE piece and just remade it. with a lower profile.

trans plate.PNG

this pic really sucks (sorry ) but OE skid on the left and homemade crap on the right, that difference in skid depth came from altering that mount.

skid.PNG
 
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someguysjeep said:
post 41 sounds like the best your gonna get off that chunk.
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I could get another 1/4" out of it but it isn't worth it. I would have to redo the whole plate with the weld studs, convert them to countersunk welded in and then lay out and countersink the two up into the trans.
 
altering these mounts could negate the use of belly drops with short lifts, but for most the belly drop is about the skill limit.
if tuckin the skid up (TT) i see no reason to not take what you can from the mount, and lessen how much you need to shove that drive line up.

a 1310 joint goes about 30*, ya? so TT's can generate what 20*+. a DC shaft splits that angle in 1/2 at the top end? does altering the adapter give angular room we can use or is it beyond what we need? < that answer is most likely case specific.
 
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fab is an art....... and what i lack is the tooling to make pretty parts. i'd love to outfit the garage and have time to make good looking functional parts like Blaine does. i can access anything i need at work, but then it becomes a race to finish b4 they lock the doors every eve. or relying on favors from other guys that don't wanna bother with your messes.

crude and functional is sufficient, but but often results in things you are reluctant to show off. and is often my excuse to rework things. if i had a proper workshop with proper tooling, my rig would be very different than what it is right now.
 
someguysjeep said:
fab is an art....... and what i lack is the tooling to make pretty parts. i'd love to outfit the garage and have time to make good looking functional parts like Blaine does. i can access anything i need at work, but then it becomes a race to finish b4 they lock the doors every eve. or relying on favors from other guys that don't wanna bother with your messes.

crude and functional is sufficient, but but often results in things you are reluctant to show off. and is often my excuse to rework things. if i had a proper workshop with proper tooling, my rig would be very different than what it is right now.
Click to expand...
It isn't tooling to make parts. It is just patience. I have a drill press, a small bench belt sander for deburring parts that I cut with a grinder. That's about the extent of it except for a good chop saw.

This is the hypothetical brought to fruition, all done with a cut off disc in a grinder, a drill press, and a few bits.

Shortened 32RH mount so the OEM trans mount can be used.

DSC_5680.JPG

Sitting on the cross member
DSC_5681.JPG


Cross member is formed from 4 pieces of 1/8" flat bar. 3" wide for the top and bottom and then the angled sides were cut from two more pieces. Corner butt welded and then sanded to look a bit better since I suck at long welds. I made it the shape of the belly skid I will be using.
DSC_5677.JPG


Angled ends because Aaron thinks I can't do it that way.
DSC_5682.JPG


Trusting what I know, 1/8" thick tabs on the frame.
DSC_5676.JPG

Access holes for the socket to remove the nuts on the studs.

DSC_5678.JPG


I need to get a side by side of a stock mount and the shortened one. Here it is.
DSC_5687.JPG
 
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ay them welds look better than 95% of what i see posted ........some are downright scary AF to me.
i run 8-12" beads by hand quite often and it's just finding that sweet spot to slide along or a point you can roll your wrist through that length of motion.....but you know this.
 
mrblaine said:
It isn't tooling to make parts. It is just patience. I have a drill press, a small bench belt sander for deburring parts that I cut with a grinder. That's about the extent of it except for a good chop saw.

This is the hypothetical brought to fruition, all done with a cut off disc in a grinder, a drill press, and a few bits.

Shortened 32RH mount so the OEM trans mount can be used.

View attachment 210060
Sitting on the cross member
View attachment 210061

Cross member is formed from 4 pieces of 1/8" flat bar. 3" wide for the top and bottom and then the angled sides were cut from two more pieces. Corner butt welded and then sanded to look a bit better since I suck at long welds. I made it the shape of the belly skid I will be using. View attachment 210062

Angled ends because Aaron thinks I can't do it that way.
View attachment 210064

Trusting what I know, 1/8" thick tabs on the frame. View attachment 210066
Access holes for the socket to remove the nuts on the studs.

View attachment 210067

I need to get a side by side of a stock mount and the shortened one.
Click to expand...
Yes!!!! I am thinking how I can bring the ends ip, I am assuming I will have to redo the crossmembers when the atlas comes in.
 
someguysjeep said:
ay them welds look better than 95% of what i see posted ........some are downright scary AF to me.
i run 8-12" beads by hand quite often and it's just finding that sweet spot to slide along or a point you can roll your wrist through that length of motion.....but you know this.
Click to expand...
My wrist roll is good for 6" and then it starts getting a bit shaky. My problem is I don't weld enough to get good at it.
 
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