rear lower shock relocation bracket
- Thread starter Eddie Greenlee
- Start date
Look right next to the yellow sticker and you'll see the dent where the lower spring perch dented the can.
The 2" springs were great until I installed the rear tire carrier and put a heavy toolbox in the back. After that, my LJ developed a 1.5 inch squat. My rear tires were rubbing the tub and my pumpkin was rubbing the skid on my safari tank. I added 4" springs which solved the squat problem but also changed the suspension geometry and placed the cans too close to the lower spring perch.
Not sure if it's related but both of the frame mounted upper control arm brackets (from safe t cap) ripped off at or around the same time due to inadequate welds. I'll send pics of that later. Yes, I was on a crawling trip but, good Lord, safe t cap needs better welders.
nathanotis
TJ Enthusiast
@Jerry Bransford
In the case of the oft recommended Rancho shocks not doing well long term when being flipped, I assume clearance-ing the spring perch is still preferable to a relocation bracket? Or is there any other solution?
In the case of the oft recommended Rancho shocks not doing well long term when being flipped, I assume clearance-ing the spring perch is still preferable to a relocation bracket? Or is there any other solution?
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I’m going to go ahead and say it depends. It depends on your travel bias. When I had a 2.5” lift and belly up I did not use the relocation brackets and instead trimmed the perches so I could fit longer shocks. With my rockjock 4” lift, the relocation brackets actually returned favorable travel bias for me. I had the longest ranchos on with 6” uptravel and 3.5” downtravel. The relocation brackets returned it more towards 50/50 travel bias. I did end up bending the shock bracket coming down on a rock but those things are pretty paper thin I doubt the relocation bracket did it. I’ve since just welded on 1/4” thick shock mounts where they need to be.
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