Ride Quality

Okay, I know I'm about to get toasted here, but I feel I just can't sit on this anymore. When I needed new shocks a few years ago, I really wanted to go with Fox 2.0s. At the time, I had a suspension lift of about 2.5". While measuring for shocks, I found that the front Fox shocks were not a good fit in that the 0-2" measured out too short for my application, and the 3-4.5" were too long, so I started looking for something similar, but in a size that would fit my build.

About the only thing I found that was of similar construction to the Fox 2.0 was the then new Rough Country V2, and the sizes were perfect for what I had. So, I started searching the web for "Rough Country V2 Jeep TJ". I couldn't find any direct hits. The only reviews I did find on these particular shocks were on bigger truck applications, but they were all positive reviews. I even heard some folks say things like, "Forget what you used to think about Rough Country. These shocks are actually nice.". At $130 per shock, the price was considerably higher than the "budget" shocks on the market, but still about $50 per shock less than the Fox 2.0.

I figured I'd roll the dice and order a set. I was replacing my worn out Rancho 5000 (pre X model) shocks. Once I had them mounted, I took them for a ride over a particular stretch of road in my area that I knew was rough and in need of some repair. I was really happy with the ride they provided. They were very complaint with no harshness. They were a real improvement over what I had been riding on.

Then, I found this forum. I had been familiar with guys like Blaine and Jerry from other forums they were once active on, so I figured this was the place to be. I was right. But, Imagine my terror when I started reading the absolute disgust for all things Rough Country around here.😁 I started thinking that maybe my old shocks were so worn that these new shocks just felt good in comparison, but were actually not that good at all. So, I decided to order a set of Black Max shocks to compare them to and decided that I'd keep the shocks that felt best and sell the others since neither set would have more than a couple hundred miles on them. To my delight, the Rough Country V2s rode at least as nice as the Black Maxes did on road and did really well off road, as well. I decided to go with the V2s. I didn't have to sell the Black Maxes because just after I made my decision, my son purchased a 2001 TJ that he immediately lifted 2" and was in need of new shocks, so he's riding on them now.

So, to wrap up this rather long winded post, I would say that either my old ass is not an accurate tool for testing ride smoothness, or that ALL Rough Country components suck...except the V2 shocks. 😁

Oh, and in the spirit of full disclosure, I also have a Rough Country motor mount lift, but how do you screw up a chunk of aluminium?

no toasting from me. There are things that RC does perfectly fine. Their customer service is great, I've even had them send me replacement parts for free without any warranty stuff. The CRES 2 HD is a good solid cargo net. Their sway bar disconnects are a good value. Their LED lighting might not be Baja Designs level but they're a clear step up from the nameless Chinese crap on Amazon. And they're the only company that makes anything close to a Rubicon-width factory looking fender flare.

I'm completely open to the possibility that they could make (or relabel and resell) a good shock. Their reputation is based more on the shocks they've historically packaged in their lift kits, and thoughtlessly including goofy stuff like drop pitman arms in their lift kits. If I see some feedback around here from someone who has been able to directly compare them with some of the other players I might even try them out.
 
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Your description of what it's doing definitely sounds more bump steery to me, so I probably wouldn't worry about the shocks just yet, especially if the ride doesn't seem terrible. If the shocks are so bad that it impacts vehicle stability, it's not comfortable.

You may have posted already, but what is your tire size, wheel width and backspacing, and what tire pressure do you run? Excessively small backspacing (wide track width and scrub radius) will make the vehicle want to follow imperfections in the road. I've seen people say even running too much tire pressure has made their TJ feel less planted.

Food for thought on the track bar...some people actually choose the RC track bar on purpose because the bend around the front axle pumpkin is actually very generous and clears the cover better than most. I've never had one in my hand to measure how much the pivot point moves from the OE rod end but it doesn't look like it'd be as severe as an actual "drop bracket" that goes between the frame mount and a more OE-like single-shear mounted bar.

They are 32 x 10.5 x 20 tires. Nitto Ridge Graps. I run about 28 psi in them. I know the side wall on the 20” tire isnt forgiving but shouldn’t effect steering I wouldn’t think.
 
They are 32 x 10.5 x 20 tires. Nitto Ridge Graps. I run about 28 psi in them. I know the side wall on the 20” tire isnt forgiving but shouldn’t effect steering I wouldn’t think.

what about wheel width and backspacing/offset? If they're something like 20x10 with 3" of BS then you'd have a ton of scrub radius.
 
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what about wheel width and backspacing/offset? If they're something like 20x10 with 3" of BS then you'd have a ton of scrub radius.

Yessir. They are 20x10. I’m not sure what the offset of the rim itself is. I bought them used and haven’t measured. I do know I’m running 1.25” spacers because I had to buy them to adapt the 5x4.5 to 5x5. I only have the guy $200 for the rims so it was worth it to me.
 
Was it, really?



You asked about ride quality.
Most here would suggest lowering your air pressure.
Unfortunately, with the larger rims you won't see the same results.

I kinda misspoke when I said ride quality. I was referring more to the way it handles and drives. Some cool folks pointed out some stuff and I believe have me on track to fix it.
 
Was it, really?



You asked about ride quality.
Most here would suggest lowering your air pressure.
Unfortunately, with the larger rims you won't see the same results.

And I just saw your “was it really” comment. Yeah. It was. You do you and I’ll do me. Mmmmkay.
 
I found a large source of the steering issues and sorting them today. They had the caster set at damn near zero. I got the passenger side set to 4.5 when it bottomed out. I’d rather be closer to 6 but that will require new links. This should make a substantial difference anyway. Got a work call to go fix atm but will get the other side adjusted when I get back home and report results.
 
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I found a large source of the steering issues and sorting them today. They had the caster set at damn near zero. I got the passenger side set to 4.5 when it bottomed out. I’d rather be closer to 6 but that will require new links. This should make a substantial difference anyway. Got a work call to go fix atm but will get the other side adjusted when I get back home and report results.

Realistically, if you take off one, get it set, you should just fit the other upper to the axle. They shouldn’t fight each other.
 
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Realistically, if you take off one, get it set, you should just fit the other upper to the axle. They shouldn’t fight each other.

I used a similar method. I measured the one I had in spec where I wanted it and just measured the other out to match. It drives sooooooo much better now.
 
Not picking on you, but normally measuring them to match is not the answer.
However, if it went in easy, you're good.

I figured there was a more mathematical way to do it but that was the best my redneck education could come up with 😂 it did go it fairly easy and the angle on each side at the upper ball joint was really close to the same. Within .2 of each other. It does drive considerably better so it can’t be all bad. lol. To get any more adjustment out of it I’ll have to buy adjustable lower arms as well. Mine are fixed.