Rocky Mountain Billy Goat Build

Yeah, I’m not happy with GenRight at all, here it is close up. I’ll try to brush the sides first probably, otherwise a body color matching wrap will be on the list.

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@rasband, you, my friend, have been a busy bee...I am counting on you in September...

I think I’m out this year but am planning to get the other guys out there next year for the Rubicon. Let me double check with the power that be on that, I think she wasn’t down for me hitting up CA without her.

She may be on board for an AZ run with Starkey since I can squish it in fewer days due to the proximity.

Too many trails, too little time.
 
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I think I’m out this year but am planning to get the other guys out there next year for the Rubicon. Let me double check with the power that be on that, I think she wasn’t down for me hitting up CA without her.

She may be on board for an AZ run with Starkey since I can squish it in fewer days due to the proximity.

Too many trails, too little time.
no worries, one thing I know, that trail ain't going anywhere!
 
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Mine were all mismatched as well. I brushed mine with a maroon scotchbrite on a sanding block and WD40. Use forward strokes only for the final pass. 50% overlap. Looks great but can get pretty bright in direct sun for people behind you.
 
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I was wondering the same, but it’s also smooth vs brushed. I’d expect the same “family” to be at least somewhat close.
The flat tailgate panel was "timesaved", which means it was run through a sanding machine. Can't do that with bent panels. They should have timesaved to the corner guards while they were still flat. Then use die saver, which is silicon sheet, to keep from marring them in the forming process.
 
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The flat tailgate panel was "timesaved", which means it was run through a sanding machine. Can't do that with bent panels. They should have timesaved to the corner guards while they were still flat. Then use die saver, which is silicon sheet, to keep from marring them in the forming process.
Thank you for teaching me the terminology, that’s good to know! The difference of them won’t matter soon as I’ll forget about it shortly. I’ll brush the others to get closer and call it good for now. The corners came pre-scratched, so there’s not much pressure on me doing it right.
 
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Prepping for some LED tail lights I swapped out my flasher relay. The new one works for blinkers but not hazards (however I haven’t swapped the lights yet) - ordered the Gold Coast one just in case after the change the hazards still don’t function properly. I’ve seen a few threads with similar issues where using the “nicer” relay corrects it.
 
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Prepping for some LED tail lights I swapped out my flasher relay. The new one works for blinkers but not hazards (however I haven’t swapped the lights yet) - ordered the Gold Coast one just in case after the change the hazards still don’t function properly. I’ve seen a few threads with similar issues where using the “nicer” relay corrects it.
When I upgraded to LEDs all around my flashers/hazards were acting real weird. At one point, the turn signal indicators on the dash stayed on constantly. I ended up switching out both front and rears with a set of bulbs from superbriteleds so that they matched the lens color, and for some reason that ended up solving the problem
 
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I had a free steering skid that has worked fairly well, but I did bend it a bit. I decided to upgrade that so there’s another support. I’m a little surprised the bolt heads on the bottom aren’t counter sunk, depending on how this skid hits that work may be something I consider but time will tell.

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I had a free steering skid that has worked fairly well, but I did bend it a bit. I decided to upgrade that so there’s another support. I’m a little surprised the bolt heads on the bottom aren’t counter sunk, depending on how this skid hits that work may be something I consider but time will tell.

View attachment 257182
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I had a free steering skid that has worked fairly well, but I did bend it a bit. I decided to upgrade that so there’s another support. I’m a little surprised the bolt heads on the bottom aren’t counter sunk, depending on how this skid hits that work may be something I consider but time will tell.

View attachment 257182
I’m guessing because it’s preferred to have the strength of grade 8 bolts for big hits and you aren’t necessarily sliding on the bottom part of the that skid like you are on rock sliders or belly pan.
 
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Yeah, I’m not happy with GenRight at all, here it is close up. I’ll try to brush the sides first probably, otherwise a body color matching wrap will be on the list.

View attachment 256579
That was quick. The tailgate looks very flat, which is good. The Savvy one required me to drill the four holes in the center. It's much better now. It's a little frustrating trying to work out all the scratches when brushing the aluminum. It just depends on how deep they are, but if you focus on those areas, the surface will not be level anymore, so it's time consuming to keep it all level. Not as big a deal if you're not worried about leaving some of the scratches. It will turn out nice, and I'm interested in seeing a side view of the Jeep since I also have flame red and havce thought about doing this
 
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I’m guessing because it’s preferred to have the strength of grade 8 bolts for big hits and you aren’t necessarily sliding on the bottom part of the that skid like you are on rock sliders or belly pan.
If rocks get into where the bolts live, it's long past time to back off and try a different line.