I think it may have been easier to break off the rubber bushing, then use the vise gripWell they're off, good job I don't need them!
Couldn't get a big enough set of vise grips on a Sunday afternoon. Hadn't seem suggestion of oil filter wrench. So, bit embarrassing, but it got ugly. I snipped at the metal sleave over the shaft until I had a section I could get some vise grips on...
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One of the nuts was so stuck on the top of the shock actually sheared off anyway, second one undid but was by far the most unhelpful nut I have had on the Jeep so far.
Have you sprayed the hell out of the nut and bolt with penetrating oil? Recommend Kroil or Liquid Wrench. Let is sit for a day or so and then give it shot.OK, so I am no doubt being dumb, but this is the first time I have removed a shock.
How do I get the nut on the top mount on the front shock undone? When I turn the nut the upper part of the shock body rotates with it. I have looked at one of my new shocks and it does the same, so I guess it is meant to do that. I can't hold it tightly enough with my hand, so how do I stop the shock turning to get the nut undone?
You don't have the ballsI really want to rip one of your shocks off now.
I did give that a go, saw it on a YouTube video. Took forever, then I found the grips I had were too big and I couldn’t get them in to grip on shaftI think it may have been easier to break off the rubber bushing, then use the vise grip
I sprayed all my hardware for 2 days. To be fair these were the only two I had any problem with. But I have yet to have a go at the rears…Have you sprayed the hell out of the nut and bolt with penetrating oil? Recommend Kroil or Liquid Wrench. Let is sit for a day or so and then give it shot.
You just jinxed yourself.I sprayed all my hardware for 2 days. To be fair these were the only two I had any problem with. But I have yet to have a go at the rears…
Alcohol, what alcohol? I was looking at the tee shirt.You're not supposed to be looking at the alcohol.
Fixed that for accuracy, I think.I was looking at the teetee shirt.
Loosen, but don't remove, the control arm and track bar bolts that pass through a rubber bushing. Disconnect the sway bar from the axle. The axle will drop much further. And you will learn a whole bunch of good things about bonded rubber bushings.Swapping out shocks and coil springs....worked on passenger front today. Getting the shock off was very easy, but that coil spring was a bitch and a half. Had to deal with a budget boost from previous owner. Tomorrow I'll put the wheel back on and start on the driver side. Compressing the coil was not easy,any pointers?
I did disconnect the sway bar links and will do the other twoLoosen, but don't remove, the control arm and track bar bolts that pass through a rubber bushing. Disconnect the sway bar from the axle. The axle will drop much further. And you will learn a whole bunch of good things about bonded rubber bushings.
Jack up one side of the axle and the other side will drop down, once the other stuff is disconnected.I did disconnect the sway bar links and will do the other two
yea easy if it wasn't for the budget boostJack up one side of the axle and the other side will drop down, once the other stuff is disconnected.
Damn that's a tall budget boost you got there, I would also have struggled lol. Do what boogie and jjvw said. One thing that buys extra clearance if you haven't already is to remove the jounce bumper cups. You can reach into the spring at full droop to undo the cup bolt. It also helps to put weight down on the axle side you are trying to droop. I didn't have anyone to help me so I used my knee.
I use the "loaner" Coil strut compressors from Advance auto when I install 4" springs. No lower isolators up front.the spring compressor I have only compresses on one side..actually the that was loaned to be is the wrong kind.....gotta search out for the one with 2 (Toledo Spring Compressor) I notice there are upper isolators/insulators
should there be lower ones too?