Skid Plate Thickness

[That'll Buff]

Seeing as the Barnes skid hasn't been in stock for a while, I decided to look at UCF skids again on a whim. Of course when I clicked on their website I get hit with a 15% off sale which doesn't state the end date to induce panic buying (and it's working). This is when I noticed that UCF has free shipping and Barnes doesn't, which now changes my thought process since really the only reason I wanted the barnes instead was the price. With the discount, the UCF 3/16" steel is roughly the same as what I estimate the Barnes to be after shipping, and the 1/4" is roughly $50 more (all ignoring the fact you have to provide your own hardware for UCF). For reference, the Barnes is 1/4" steel. In short, is the added strength of the 1/4" steel worth it, or do most get by with 3/16" just fine?

For added context, all of these skids are no body lift skids simply due to not wanting to deal with the added work (and price) from a full tuck at this moment. Steel was only chosen due to price differences between it and aluminum. This skid is technically "temporary" due to the desire to tuck in the future, but will be on long enough that it will definitely see use.

 

[Unique Username]

Call Barns if you want the skid and they will make it. I know a few people who have called and got the skid. They aren’t going to make it and keep it on the shelf.

 

[That'll Buff]

Call Barns if you want the skid and they will make it. I know a few people who have called and got the skid. They aren’t going to make it and keep it on the shelf.

I actually prefer UCF's design, literally only reason I was going for Barnes was price. This sale now puts them close enough that UCF is now my top choice. I'll keep calling Barnes in mind though just in case I somehow forget and the sale ends though.

 

[macleanflood]

I did 3/8" belly up aluminum and love it.

-Mac

 

[That'll Buff]

I did 3/8" belly up aluminum and love it.

-Mac

In the future Mac, in the future.

 

[bbaldwin237]

UCF basically always has the 15% off coupon so don't feel a panic.

I have 1/4" aluminum UCF everything (belly, engine, and tank) and have been very pleased with them. They have taken a beating already and are holding up well.

 

[Tronner]

I have the UCF 3/16 steel Skid and the UCF aluminum 3/16 gas tank skid. No complaints with either. Shipping is free, but takes about a week and a half for the order to ship as they are made to order.

 

[Rut Row]

UCF basically always has the 15% off coupon so don't feel a panic.

I have 1/4" aluminum UCF everything (belly, engine, and tank) and have been very pleased with them. They have taken a beating already and are holding up well.

Same here. I'm quite happy.

 

[GPK03X]

You could get the extra clearance skid and just use a drop kit until you’re ready for the tuck

 

[That'll Buff]

You could get the extra clearance skid and just use a drop kit until you’re ready for the tuck

They don't make them for early models.

 

[The4bangertj]

Early models seem to have a little more room than the later models. Both myself and my buddy have early models and could fit the 1inch deep skid (full tuck) without a body lift and using the stock transmission mount and a 231j. So if you wanted to you could prob buy one skid rather than doing it twice.
But ima buy once guy now so now I have a body lift and I did the 3/8 aluminum diy skid and made a crossmember. Zero regrets.

 

[That'll Buff]

Early models seem to have a little more room than the later models. Both myself and my buddy have early models and could fit the 1inch deep skid (full tuck) without a body lift and using the stock transmission mount and a 231j. So if you wanted to you could prob buy one skid rather than doing it twice.
But ima buy once guy now so now I have a body lift and I did the 3/8 aluminum diy skid and made a crossmember. Zero regrets.

The main concern and reason I'm not doing the tuck at the same time despite doing it with a body lift is because of the extra work that has to be done. I've got a weekend to do this plus a few other small projects at the same time before I have to button everything up, so adding exhaust massaging and the chance that my driveshaft becomes too short into the mix is not desirable. Technically, if I wanted to I could buy the ultra flat that you're talking about, do everything, see if it fits, and if it doesn't put the stock one back on, but that results in having to deal with returns and more waiting around. I'm not technically opposed to it and could be convinced if other people chime in, but I'm really looking to try an knock everything out in one weekend while also allotting time for stuff to go wrong.

 

[bbaldwin237]

They don't make them for early models.

The point would still stand though, if you got the ultra high you could use a spacer kit. But like I said, if you're only looking to buy now because of price, you could hold off because they always (*) offer the sale.

 

[That'll Buff]

The point would still stand though, if you got the ultra high you could use a spacer kit. But like I said, if you're only looking to buy now because of price, you could hold off because they always (*) offer the sale.

I guess I should be very clear about my plans for this lol. The reason I'm changing the skid out now is because I don't want to cut my front driveshaft in half since the stock skid already is trying to work its way into it. If I'm going to take it off to install the cable shifter, no point in putting it back on. At some point in the future, I'd like to do a proper tuck with aluminum engine and tranny skids but it is not a high priority on my list right now. The point of me choosing steel is because it is a relatively cheap way to fix this issue without regretting it too much in a few years when I replace it with what I really want. It is nice to know that that sale happens often though, so I'll keep a look out for it later then.

 

[The4bangertj]

Doing any “tuck skid” that’s not the exact stock drop will probably result in changes you don’t want to deal with. Even a 2inch drop skid (the no body lift ucf skid required exhaust mods for myself) not including adjusting all your drive shaft angles.
I would trim the stock skid and keep driving

 

[That'll Buff]

Doing any “tuck skid” that’s not the exact stock drop will probably result in changes you don’t want to deal with. Even a 2inch drop skid (the no body lift ucf skid required exhaust mods for myself) not including adjusting all your drive shaft angles.
I would trim the stock skid and keep driving

Interesting, I wasn't expecting the no body lift to require exhaust modification. Obviously I was aware that I'd have to change riveline angles and took that part into account, that's an easy enough fix, I just wasn't looking to do something like cut the 3rd cat out. I know the Barnes is something like a 3" drop vs the UCFs 2", and from what I had been reading it didn't seem like there were any issues with anyone installing either. I had even read at least one thread of someone calling the extra clearance version "plug and play." Guess this might be a case of every jeep is different.

 

[The4bangertj]

Interesting, I wasn't expecting the no body lift to require exhaust modification. Obviously I was aware that I'd have to change riveline angles and took that part into account, that's an easy enough fix, I just wasn't looking to do something like cut the 3rd cat out. I know the Barnes is something like a 3" drop vs the UCFs 2", and from what I had been reading it didn't seem like there were any issues with anyone installing either. I had even read at least one thread of someone calling the extra clearance version "plug and play." Guess this might be a case of every jeep is different.

Ya not to say every jeep is the same but my muffler was hitting the tub on the floorboard on rear passenger side feet. That was with the 2inch deep (no body lift) ucf skid. Lot of yanking it around and it “worked” but not ideal. Melted the carpet on the floorboard there all the time and would rattle and hit the tub every so often. The work to do the 2inch deep (cable shifter, sye, control arms, exhaust) is just as much as the 1 inch deep with the exception of maybe you’ll have to hit the tub in a spot for case clearance since your not running a body lift but if the body lift is even in the plans or thinking of it I’d cut the skid now and do the skid you want.

 

[That'll Buff]

Ya not to say every jeep is the same but my muffler was hitting the tub on the floorboard on rear passenger side feet. That was with the 2inch deep (no body lift) ucf skid. Lot of yanking it around and it “worked” but not ideal. Melted the carpet on the floorboard there all the time and would rattle and hit the tub every so often. The work to do the 2inch deep (cable shifter, sye, control arms, exhaust) is just as much as the 1 inch deep with the exception of maybe you’ll have to hit the tub in a spot for case clearance since your not running a body lift but if the body lift is even in the plans or thinking of it I’d cut the skid now and do the skid you want.

I'm doing this all because I'm putting in a body lift actually. As for cutting it, I have seen that where someone notches it and the welds in an arc above the driveshaft. Maybe I'll look into it more. Biggest annoyance with that is obviously that you have to slide it down the front driveshaft whenever you want to take it off, although I can't say there are many times where I've taken off the skid plate in general so maybe not as annoying as it might initially seem. Thanks for the info about the UCF skid though, when I read your first post it sounded perfect since there's so much room, now I know there's not as much as I was thinking.

 

[The4bangertj]

I'm doing this all because I'm putting in a body lift actually. As for cutting it, I have seen that where someone notches it and the welds in an arc above the driveshaft. Maybe I'll look into it more. Biggest annoyance with that is obviously that you have to slide it down the front driveshaft whenever you want to take it off, although I can't say there are many times where I've taken off the skid plate in general so maybe not as annoying as it might initially seem. Thanks for the info about the UCF skid though, when I read your first post it sounded perfect since there's so much room, now I know there's not as much as I was thinking.

Neither I or my friend had to hammer the tub. There is a lot more room than I was expecting above it. I can’t guarantee your experience will be the exact same.
The stock skid has a lot of shape to it for strength. Depend on how much your cutting sway I wouldn’t even worry about adding bracing. And if I was I would just weld a fin like vertical brace along the inside before I did anything up and over the drive shaft.

Here is a pic of my clearance I currently have. 1inch deep with a cross member and body lift. I have a ton of room on top.
Even going from the 2inch deep the the 1 inch deep I had to cut and weld my exhaust hangers to have the exhaust sit right. Thankfully 1inch wasn’t enough change that the pipes needed to be bent from a shop. Going from my stock to 2inch deep slid did though.

 

[That'll Buff]

Neither I or my friend had to hammer the tub. There is a lot more room than I was expecting above it. I can’t guarantee your experience will be the exact same.
The stock skid has a lot of shape to it for strength. Depend on how much your cutting sway I wouldn’t even worry about adding bracing. And if I was I would just weld a fin like vertical brace along the inside before I did anything up and over the drive shaft.

Here is a pic of my clearance I currently have. 1inch deep with a cross member and body lift. I have a ton of room on top.
Even going from the 2inch deep the the 1 inch deep I had to cut and weld my exhaust hangers to have the exhaust sit right. Thankfully 1inch wasn’t enough change that the pipes needed to be bent from a shop. Going from my stock to 2inch deep slid did though.

View attachment 704183

What do you mean by "fin like vertical brace" exactly? Just a piece of steel that sticks straight up and given a fillet, or something more? I'm liking the idea of cutting a bit more now, just want to have a better picture of what might be needed if I need to cut off a more than just the front lip.