So you want to run 35" tires on your TJ?

Hello all,

I'm new to the forum and still somewhat new to TJ ownership. I have a 2002 TJ Sport, 4.0L, Dana 30/Dana 44, 15in rims on 31's, all stock except for LED Headlights. My goal is to be able to run 35's. I've read through this thread and a few others and im looking to start purchasing parts and starting upgrades. My Jeep is my daily driver but I also like to take it offroading and camping and all of that. I don't do any super crazy rock crawling or insanely hard trails, but I have done Diablo's Drop off out here in SoCal once. I have about 10K saved up for upgrades. I'll be moving to Virginia at the end of the year so my terrain will shift a bit but i imagine that won't affect the upgrades too much.

All of this being said, I have a question:

1) What should be the order of things to upgrade? I want to avoid breaking things and also minimize cost (i.e. figuring out stuff i can do at the same time, rather than doing stuff like opening my diffs multiple times and having to buy seals and fluid all of that over and over.)

I've seen people somewhat answer this question but when I look into buying parts for an upgrade I keep running into situations where I can't do an upgrade without doing another upgrade 1st and then that upgrade requires another upgrade and then all of the parts are sold by different vendors and some of them aren't compatible, etc., etc., etc.

I figure the short answer is to just figure it out/ welcome to owning and upgrading a 20 year old vehicle, but I just thought I'd ask.

Thank you all for all of the time and effort y'all have put into this thread already! I look forward to anyone's input.

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Welcome to the TJ club. Nice clean-looking Jeep. Wish you all the best with your upgrades. Just go for it. Everything will be fine. I was in a similar situation as you are now, didn't know where to start but I started with the easy stuff asI was a bit nervous at the beginning. Watching those youtube DIY videos and utilizing this forum as a platform to gather information, I was able to do a lot of mods on my own.
 
Hello all,

I'm new to the forum and still somewhat new to TJ ownership. I have a 2002 TJ Sport, 4.0L, Dana 30/Dana 44, 15in rims on 31's, all stock except for LED Headlights. My goal is to be able to run 35's. I've read through this thread and a few others and im looking to start purchasing parts and starting upgrades. My Jeep is my daily driver but I also like to take it offroading and camping and all of that. I don't do any super crazy rock crawling or insanely hard trails, but I have done Diablo's Drop off out here in SoCal once. I have about 10K saved up for upgrades. I'll be moving to Virginia at the end of the year so my terrain will shift a bit but i imagine that won't affect the upgrades too much.

All of this being said, I have a question:

1) What should be the order of things to upgrade? I want to avoid breaking things and also minimize cost (i.e. figuring out stuff i can do at the same time, rather than doing stuff like opening my diffs multiple times and having to buy seals and fluid all of that over and over.)

I've seen people somewhat answer this question but when I look into buying parts for an upgrade I keep running into situations where I can't do an upgrade without doing another upgrade 1st and then that upgrade requires another upgrade and then all of the parts are sold by different vendors and some of them aren't compatible, etc., etc., etc.

I figure the short answer is to just figure it out/ welcome to owning and upgrading a 20 year old vehicle, but I just thought I'd ask.

Thank you all for all of the time and effort y'all have put into this thread already! I look forward to anyone's input.

Same kinda thing here except I don’t have a number one priority to throw 10k at it all at once. I am slowly working towards 35’s but the tires and wheels will be the very last thing I do. I am wanting to enjoy it in stages because I know once I get to 35’s the money pit wont be full.

I started with all maintenance stuff rear main, valve gasket, fluids, belts, pulleys and other stuff that needed done with age. I then moved to a DPG lift, arms springs body lift motor lift track bars and such. Currently have enjoyed it for about 8 months at this stage and it’s been a blast. Non 35 related stuff; bumper, winch, radio mount, seat covers and a tailgate dome light trigger(favorite mod so far!).
Coming soon will be currie steering and then on board air in preparation for the regear lockers and shafts. Once I get to rebuilding the axles I plan to take a time out as the gears lockers and all will be about 5 grand, I am planning to force myself to enjoy it here before moving on to the next upgrade.


Another reason to slow the jump to 35’s is I am unsure if I want to run a 4 inch spring or keep the current old man emu 2.5” spring and install the nemesis high lines that I already have sitting on standby.

I am hoping that seeing more built Jeeps on the trails this summer will help guide me where I’m going regarding the 2.5 and high lines or 4 inch springs.
 
Same kinda thing here except I don’t have a number one priority to throw 10k at it all at once. I am slowly working towards 35’s but the tires and wheels will be the very last thing I do. I am wanting to enjoy it in stages because I know once I get to 35’s the money pit wont be full.

I started with all maintenance stuff rear main, valve gasket, fluids, belts, pulleys and other stuff that needed done with age. I then moved to a DPG lift, arms springs body lift motor lift track bars and such. Currently have enjoyed it for about 8 months at this stage and it’s been a blast. Non 35 related stuff; bumper, winch, radio mount, seat covers and a tailgate dome light trigger(favorite mod so far!).
Coming soon will be currie steering and then on board air in preparation for the regear lockers and shafts. Once I get to rebuilding the axles I plan to take a time out as the gears lockers and all will be about 5 grand, I am planning to force myself to enjoy it here before moving on to the next upgrade.


Another reason to slow the jump to 35’s is I am unsure if I want to run a 4 inch spring or keep the current old man emu 2.5” spring and install the nemesis high lines that I already have sitting on standby.

I am hoping that seeing more built Jeeps on the trails this summer will help guide me where I’m going regarding the 2.5 and high lines or 4 inch springs.
I really like how 4in and Highlines look and perform IMO.

0A2E62E5-AC11-45D2-AFDE-B298EDA7BC8B.jpeg


2C4E4C6F-4FA3-4B8E-961C-F8CF6B1E3D5F.jpeg
 
I really like how 4in and Highlines look and perform IMO.

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I will probably end up there long term as I too love the look. I am already pushing height limits in my garage with the hardtop on the ceiling. If I want 35’s and a 4 inch lift I’ll have to wait until I move to a new house. My 2.5 springs, body lift and future 35’s may not even fit.

I ordered the HD Old man emu springs when I got my lift thinking I would have a huge rear bumper/tire carrier but ended up with a small dirtworx one, I’ll be ordering new springs soon which should remove the almost 2 inch rake I have and then give me space to run 35’s under this hardtop.

13395CA3-8DED-4671-ADC4-35A4188A1D68.jpeg
 
Same kinda thing here except I don’t have a number one priority to throw 10k at it all at once. I am slowly working towards 35’s but the tires and wheels will be the very last thing I do. I am wanting to enjoy it in stages because I know once I get to 35’s the money pit wont be full.

I started with all maintenance stuff rear main, valve gasket, fluids, belts, pulleys and other stuff that needed done with age. I then moved to a DPG lift, arms springs body lift motor lift track bars and such. Currently have enjoyed it for about 8 months at this stage and it’s been a blast. Non 35 related stuff; bumper, winch, radio mount, seat covers and a tailgate dome light trigger(favorite mod so far!).
Coming soon will be currie steering and then on board air in preparation for the regear lockers and shafts. Once I get to rebuilding the axles I plan to take a time out as the gears lockers and all will be about 5 grand, I am planning to force myself to enjoy it here before moving on to the next upgrade.


Another reason to slow the jump to 35’s is I am unsure if I want to run a 4 inch spring or keep the current old man emu 2.5” spring and install the nemesis high lines that I already have sitting on standby.

I am hoping that seeing more built Jeeps on the trails this summer will help guide me where I’m going regarding the 2.5 and high lines or 4 inch springs.
Where can I find your tailgate dome light trigger mod?
 
Where can I find your tailgate dome light trigger mod?
Buy all the parts from amazon and get after it, super helpful addition, while I was doing this I did the glove box light mod where it automatically comes on when opening. Very helpful. Something I plan to do in the future is a center console light of similar design.
 
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I just pulled the trigger and bought a Yukon 4340 Chromoly axle shaft for the front Dana 30. I had to pause though, because the regular 4340 Chromoly shaft was <$500 and the same with a "super joint" was more than 2X the price (also from Yukon). I went ahead with it because I figured the upgrade to chromoly for ~$500 seemed worth it for the tame level of offroad driving I do. I also figure I can take the stock shaft I'm replacing with me if i ever break the new Yukon one and swap it in the field.

But I'm curious to know if anyone knows the difference between the Yukon chromoly upgrade to the Dana 30 axle and the same with the "super joint" and if the latter is worth paying twice as much. Thanks in advance.
 
I just pulled the trigger and bought a Yukon 4340 Chromoly axle shaft for the front Dana 30. I had to pause though, because the regular 4340 Chromoly shaft was <$500 and the same with a "super joint" was more than 2X the price (also from Yukon). I went ahead with it because I figured the upgrade to chromoly for ~$500 seemed worth it for the tame level of offroad driving I do. I also figure I can take the stock shaft I'm replacing with me if i ever break the new Yukon one and swap it in the field.

But I'm curious to know if anyone knows the difference between the Yukon chromoly upgrade to the Dana 30 axle and the same with the "super joint" and if the latter is worth paying twice as much. Thanks in advance.

Which side did you get - driver or passenger?

🙂

Just kidding. Welcome to the forum.
 
I just pulled the trigger and bought a Yukon 4340 Chromoly axle shaft for the front Dana 30. I had to pause though, because the regular 4340 Chromoly shaft was <$500 and the same with a "super joint" was more than 2X the price (also from Yukon). I went ahead with it because I figured the upgrade to chromoly for ~$500 seemed worth it for the tame level of offroad driving I do. I also figure I can take the stock shaft I'm replacing with me if i ever break the new Yukon one and swap it in the field.

But I'm curious to know if anyone knows the difference between the Yukon chromoly upgrade to the Dana 30 axle and the same with the "super joint" and if the latter is worth paying twice as much. Thanks in advance.

Perhaps the ujoint a are 1310 on the $500 version and 1350 on the $1000 version.
 
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I felt this thread was necessary at this point. We see a lot of people on the forum who insist on running 35" tires, but probably don't know how to do it properly, or what's required (other than just the tires and lift).

For anyone considering adding 35" tires to their TJ, first take into consideration that this is no small feat. You're going to need at minimum several thousand dollars set aside. Sure, there's ways to do it on the cheap, but if you plan on off-roading your TJ at all, you'll want to do it right.

I'm going to give you a run down of what you'll need to properly run 35" tires:


Lift Kit (5" to 6" of lift)
This can be done with all suspension lift, or a combination of something like 4" of suspension lift and 1" of body lift. I prefer the latter because that body lift will allow you to tuck your transfer case (tummy tuck), which is highly desirably in off-road situations. For a good quality lift (i.e. Currie, Metalcloak, etc.) you should be prepared to spend around $3000. For a lesser quality lift (i.e. Rough Country, Skyjacker, etc.), you'll probably spend around $1500 (but you'll be getting a subpar quality lift).


LCG Lift
Alternatively, if you want a low center of gravity (LCG) lift, you can go with a 2" to 3" lift, tubed or highline fenders, and trim the tub. This will easily fit 35" tires while giving you that low center of gravity. For the record though, I think the whole "LCG" thing is complete bullshit.


Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) & Double Cardan (CV) Drive Shaft
You'll definitely need a slip yoke eliminator and double cardan driveshaft. The only exception will be if you have a Rubicon model. Then you'll only need the double cardan driveshaft. Be prepared to spend around $900+ for everything, not including labor. For more information on SYEs, check out this thread: The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread


Wheels & Tires
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Figure that you'll spend around $600 (more if you buy premium wheels) on a new set of 5 wheels (don't forget the spare), and $1500 on a new set of 35" tires. So roughly $2100 for wheels and tires (35" tires aren't cheap!).


Stock TJ Axles
A stock Dana 35 rear axle can actually be built to be very durable. For proof of that, and to read more on the subject, check this thread out: Should I upgrade my Dana 35 axle?

A stock Dana 30 front axle can be made to last with chromoly shafts. There's a lot of guys out there running Dana 30 front axles with 35" tires who haven't had any issues.


Stock TJ Rubicon Axles
A stock Dana 44 rear axle will be more up to the task of running 35" tires than a Dana 35. However, the stock axle shafts will still be the weak point. If you upgrade them to a high quality chromoly axle shaft (i.e. Revolution Chromoly Axle Shafts) you shouldn't have any issues at all.

A stock Dana 44 front axle, being a hybrid Dana 44 / Dana 30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all Dana 30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and 44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromoly shafts will help. The Dana 44 front axle is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the low pinion Dana 30.


Gears
If you're running 35" tires, you'll undoubtedly want to re-gear. You can expect to pay on average $650 for a set of gears, plus $800 for labor (seems to be the going rate). Once it's all said and done, you'll have spent roughly $1450+ to re-gear. If you don't re-gear, your TJ is going to feel like an absolute dog (especially on a huge tire like 35") to drive (yes, it's really that bad).


Steering
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. My suggestion is upgrading to a Currie Currectlync, which is by far the best bolt-on steering kit available for the TJ. Another option for more budget minded folks is the ZJ tie rod conversion. Either way, if you plan on off-roading, you'll want to upgrade the steering since the size of the 35" tires will definitely add more stress to your steering. To upgrade your steering you'll spend anywhere from $150 to $550 give-or-take.


Brakes
At 35" you'll need to know that your stock brakes simply aren't going to cut it, especially for use on-road. Hands down, the best thing you can do when you run 35" tires is to get the Vanco big brake kit. This is worth every penny. You could also just run Black Magic brake pads, but it's not going to be as good as the big brake kit upgrade. A Vanco big brake kit will run you around $1100 to $1400 depending, but I know that Blaine will give you a deal if you mention you're from the forum. If you'd like to read a real world review of the Vanco big brake kit, check out my thread here: My Review of the Vanco 16" Big Brake Kit


Conclusion
Once it's all said and done, to properly run 35" tires, you're going to easily spend upwards of $7000 (that's not an exaggeration either). Yes, it can be done for much cheaper, there's no arguing that. However, if you do it cheaper, you'll end up in one of those situations where you find yourself wishing you'd done it right the first time.

If all you're after is looks and have no desire to off-road at all, then yeah, you'd be safe doing it on the cheap. However, if you plan on off-roading it at all, save up the money and do it right the first time.

Great advise Chris,
The stock brakes on my 2006 are barely adequate with 33" tires. The brakes have kept me from going to 35s
 
A couple of new guy questions here. 04 Rubicon looking at going to 35x12.50 but see alot of 17x9 wheels. Is that going to give me issues over the 8 inch wheels? So the Rubicon has 4.10 gearing I believe and the 5 speed what's recommended for hearing. I'm showing 65 mph at 2000 rpms on the Tremec rpm calculator. How low should I be looking? Eventually going to end up with a 5.3 LS and a 6L80E
 
A couple of new guy questions here. 04 Rubicon looking at going to 35x12.50 but see alot of 17x9 wheels. Is that going to give me issues over the 8 inch wheels? So the Rubicon has 4.10 gearing I believe and the 5 speed what's recommended for hearing. I'm showing 65 mph at 2000 rpms on the Tremec rpm calculator. How low should I be looking? Eventually going to end up with a 5.3 LS and a 6L80E

The 5 speed should have 5.13 gears to push 35s. This gets you to about 3k rpm at 75mph.

These are 17x9 wheels. They perform better with 35s than the more common 15x8.
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The 5 speed should have 5.13 gears to push 35s. This gets you to about 3k rpm at 75mph.

These are 17x9 wheels. They perform better with 35s than the more common 15x8.
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Did you change backspacing any or still looking at 4 inches. 3K not that I'll be on the interstate for much of anything sounds a bit high but makes sense.
 
Did you change backspacing any or still looking at 4 inches. 3K not that I'll be on the interstate for much of anything sounds a bit high but makes sense.

Those are JK Moabs with a 2" adaptor spacer creating an effective 4" backspacing.

That rpm is lower than the early TJs with the 32rh when they rolled off the assembly line. Using that as a baseline, most TJs have been under geared across the board for decades.
 
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The 5 speed should have 5.13 gears to push 35s. This gets you to about 3k rpm at 75mph.

These are 17x9 wheels. They perform better with 35s than the more common 15x8.
View attachment 632272

Ran the calculator with 5.13s and the rpms and speeds are solid on both transmissions. Good suggestion thank you. Have you ever ran the 5x4.5 to 5x5 adaptors? I am seeing a lot better choices in 5x5 wheels than the 5x4.5s. Are they safe to run?