Someguys 04

well the battery took a charge and she fired right up. i still think it's time for a new 1 but as long as i can get it started every couple wks for 20-30m, that'll work until better weather. why go buy 1 just to cold store it for 3 months. i'll run the trickle charger every few days. it's on a switch from the house.

it's been in the 50's recently but, i have no small things i can really do (beside that battery) in a few hrs time.

not heard a peep about that bumper i ordered, that i could knock out. and it would allow the AR to go in next. i kinda need the AR in place b4 i get started in on the front axle again, so i can place my sway link brackets.

i gave up a lunch time and got my robot programmed for those bead locks. and will try to do them soon. finishing them should give my something to keep my mind busy for a minute.

been in the forums quite a bit lately my brains going a mile a minute with 5 irons in the fire, and not being able to finish any.....so i have to "live the jeep life" through you all for a little while.
 
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someguysjeep said:
been in the forums quite a bit lately my brains going a mile a minute with 5 irons in the fire, and not being able to finish any.....so i have to "live the jeep life" through you all for a little while.
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Ive been that way too with the regear coming up, rear tire carrier, axle build, and a new rear bumper. Need to slow down and take a minute to do one thing at a time.
 
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so i ran my 1st rim today. i didn't have 1 to practice on, so i was kinda on the spot to get it right the 1st time. cam out pretty good. i have couple tweeks to make to my program, but it should work.

i'll see how they clean up with a grinder/ sanding disc, but may run them down to the machine shop and turn um. i did not weld nuts on the bottom side. i like the idea but don't want to have to cut them off if they failed or a bolt snaps and i have to drill it out. holding the nut is less a PITA than replacing just 1.

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so i did come up with a way to get that 135# of torque to the ring gear bolts. vices really wouldn't hold it, so i used itself. i had some old 30spline shafts around and made them (welded some plates i could get multiple clamps onto) so i could mount the locker onto them and engage it. that i knew would hold and not tear anything up. and it worked like a charm.

so the pinion has a pre load range of 22-35 inch lb's. i have 30.
the gear backlash has a .006-.010 range. got a .013 on my 1st attempt and after re configuring the shims, i now have .008.

the pinion shim recommendation from RGA was .043. but .045 is as close as i could get to that.
so next is the paste test.........fingers crossed.
 
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so the final #'s end up at
pinion pre load 33-34 in/lb.
backlash at .008 (@ 3 spots)

i did change up shims, i had a mini kit i got cheap and it had different options, that helped.
the bearing protrudes the cup some, and i'm shimming from outside. i needed to be able to tap that last shim in tight, without having to jump the end of the cone. the RGA kit provides a large .010 while the Yukon kit had 2 .005's. being able to split that .010 really helped slip the last shim in to tighten the pre load and bring the BL in.

gonna be awhile b4 i can get this out under the jeep, so i'm just gonna wet it down good with gear oil. if i assemble it any more i'll never get it out of the basement.
it's supposed to be mild this wkend, if i can get it to the garage, i can assemble it out there. and just keep it covered.

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dammit .........i just straight forgot to order another lube locker for this front end. so i ordered 1.

it was 66 today, so i was able to get that axle up and out to the garage, holy hell that thing is getting heavy. i mounted the knuckles. and will try to get the shafts in and unit bearings on tomrw.

i also ordered up 2 new vent valves. as well as a 45* filler neck for the fuel cell. i need to go ahead and get the Moto pump ring ordered too.
 
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i finally got around to ordering the Moto pump ring. and they had some pre-made adapter plates to tie in a roll bar at the windscreen for 2$ a pop, so i got a couple of those too.
the lube locker arrived, so did my filler neck.

once the pump ring arrives, i'll have all the pieces i need to set their locations and get the holes cut. then i can finally coat it internally.

i took my control arm mount in and added a few stiffeners. i boxed the top and bottom of the upper off the structure, added a small gusset behind it, as well as a gusset below it, to tie those unsupported outer edges.

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so b4 i go and order a back 1/2 kit, i'm going to try and see what i can fab.

i made up some simple drawings and if i can do the sides i can do the top and bottoms so i'll see what i can work out b4 purchasing a pre-made.
i come up with a 2.75" offset from center tubes 4x2.5 into 4x2. or the new 4x2 will sit a 1/2" inside where the existing inside frame wall is, and should leave just enough room to reclaim those under tub body mounts on the cross member.

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well i finished the project i'd been working on at work. shops kinda slow right now and i got told to go look busy. so i had a bit of time to plasma these out of 1/4" material.
i have the outside frame bend figured, once i set it i'll mock up the back side/inside wall. it's not just a simple copy, it'll be a slightly different angle going from the 4x2.5 to 4x2.

i made a 5" overlap on the existing section of frame (bottom) and the upper will have a 4" overlap. i still need a couple more plug weld holes on the bottom end (gonna make them a little larger). but i think i can pull this off.


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got a bit more time to tinker with those pieces yest and today. i was able to get all 4 sides pieces bent, and get started into the top and bottoms. i have 1 tacked so i can flip it and plate the bottom.
i really didn't want a noticeable crease along any of the bends, so rather than bending them in the big break i got them warm and bent them over the edge of my table.

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got those parts all finished, as far as i can b4 they get installed. it's all just tacked together for now it'll go onto the frame in pieces. with them all tacked up i can grind over the edges and taper tings out.
they are not works of art but will do what they need to do.

we got a few 20ft lengths of 4x2x3/16 at work. i asked the purchasing guy to give me a # on 100", and he came back at 60$, so i'll just get it from work.

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not so fast with those "likes" guys..............i F'd up somewhere. i will remaking those parts 1 more time.
IDK how but i got goofed up on the spread of those beams (frame and the new end).

but it's not the end of the world, i want to re-do things differently now that i see this chunk up beside the frame.
the bottom is meant to encase the existing frame tube right behind the last body mount. it's gonna add a 1/4" of material to the frame dimensions there.
this just happens to be the ballpark location of where i believe i'll be placing my new rear link brackets. i don't need or desire a 3x over wrap of frame in that area. i'm gonna try and reconfigure the bottom connection to go internal. this will keep 1 layer of material hidden. then once i get to the rear link brackets, their support frame will over wrap that area top, bottom and inside wall.

and the battery is shot, so i dug it out yesterday and replaced it today, nothing special, duralast gold, 5yr warranty and the store is 1 block away.
i'm super tight for room there with the high lines, the battery has to be the exact same dimensions as the 1 i fit everything around. so i'm not even going to the trouble of trying to fit options or upgrades.

i got several of the items relocated for a 2nd time on the inner fenders, due to the strut towers protrusion into the engine bay.
(it's going up to 55 here today so i played hookie)

i got the brackets and frame all match marked up for install. everything fits great, just need to strip paint, weld and refinish.
 
i finally got all the pieces to my strut fill kit.
this was a single fill kit from ORI (valve and bleeder are in the body).
i added a T and handful of fittings to a couple hoses (800psi rated) both with no loss chucks.
that'll all be fed from a regulated bottle, and should provide an equal pressurization of both struts.

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Ive tossed the idea around of building something similar for the foxes. Plenty of us here in CO that run the same shock, having the ability to adjust and refill would be fun. Solid work.
 
bumper got here this morning.....didn't think Sat delivery was a usual residential deliver day so maybe Savvy pushed it for me, either way i'm happy and this thing is super light.
it'll definitely help shave 40# off the front end.

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What's the weight? Can you post a pic of the underside when it is installed? Curious to see how close it is to the crossmember
 
w/ hardware bag, bathroom scale says 15#.

pics for sure, but gonna have to wait for the weather to turn, she's got a ft of snow on/around her right now.
 
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someguysjeep said:
bumper got here this morning.....didn't think Sat delivery was a usual residential deliver day so maybe Savvy pushed it for me, either way i'm happy and this thing is super light.
it'll definitely help shave 40# off the front end.

View attachment 139138
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Loved my Savvy bumper! That thing is so light it's almost unreal.
 
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someguysjeep said:
bumper got here this morning.....didn't think Sat delivery was a usual residential deliver day so maybe Savvy pushed it for me, either way i'm happy and this thing is super light.
it'll definitely help shave 40# off the front end.

View attachment 139138
Click to expand...

Congrats on your nice new bumper!
Did you get any of the other options with it like the fairlead mount, winch guard or light mounts?

I called Thursday to order one myself and now excited to see it in person as well as on Jeep.

Personally, I wish the fairlead mount was tig welded at the bottom front corners, I don't even want them sanded and finished. I like a nice well done tig weld. I have a spool gun so I could do it myself.
 
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i have some 1/4" aluminum plate and may make my own. fairlead mount. i can make a winch guard, but likely go without.

i also have a few pieces of 3/8" 6061 aluminum. i will be making some HD corner protectors.
something like that might add another 3-5# w/hardware. then a couple tow hooks.
 
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