B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Someguys 04
- Thread starter someguysjeep
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OP
OP
what you got swirlin around your head?
i'm still not committed to anything. Fusion has a housing with the C's and add's up to what it's gonna cost you to buy C's, same with ECGS.
i was givin info on another thread the ford 60 is 7" from center tube to top of the diff and that's = to a 14B,
need that info on this new style 60 housing. but besides a few #'s the 14 could be back on the table, and WOD has that housing w/o C's for like 1400 shaved, IIRC.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I'm still up in the air about what my final front axle solution will be. Still leaning toward a JK 44 center section with currie 60 C's. so far gears and locker have been great. I already have the 60 C's just have to decide what housing. I have a rubicon ARB locker for the 44 too so thats plus the 4.0/42RLE and the fact i already ground my diff on every rock there is make me hesitant to do a full 60. I have a teraflex 44 housing sitting in my shed but the guy i got it from ditched it because he couldn't make it stop leaking from the tube seals. that's not something i really want to deal with. I saw summit has 44 housings for $1100.
Did you look at DSTRAC yet? the brazilian guys are starting to show up on people builds and they have a reasonable price point.
OP
DS is big stuff. reasonable if you mean 20-30% less than several others. those portals sure are pretty.
i'm lookin at that diff from center tube up thats the biggest thing, lessening the impact of a larger diff under there and not negating up travel.
some of the difference might /could be negated by upper link bracket position, not sittin like a King up there.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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You're right on DS. They used to have a 44/70 hybrid that was 5500 but seems to have disappeared from their site.
OP
that banjo axle reads something about a 44 ratio? with 70 ends, but looks like an odd old mopar or ford axle to me.
OP
trailer parts got here yesterday. and so did winter weather, we topped out at 30mph winds and 36* and today is no better nor is mon..
looking ok for tues and wed so i might be sick 1 of those days and not make it to the shop.
i got those axle tubes all cleaned and repainted, just in time. i did not mess with the hubs yet. on days the weather permits i can put the jeep out and heat the garage to work on them inside.
looking ok for tues and wed so i might be sick 1 of those days and not make it to the shop.
i got those axle tubes all cleaned and repainted, just in time. i did not mess with the hubs yet. on days the weather permits i can put the jeep out and heat the garage to work on them inside.
OP
well i did get the jeep out last wkend and get another heat cycle on them gears, now i just need to put some miles on them.
didn't like how all the trailer suspension tid bits were just raw and sharp so i cleaned those all up and took the sharp edges and corners off b4 painting them.
started to mess with the layout of the trailer. they messed up a bunch of steel at work and trashed it, so i got permission to salvage what i want and i got just about enough 3, 4 and 6" channel to make it all brand new. already got my box shape laid out and ready to be put together.
6" channel for the front beam, 4" channel side rails, to a 3"x3/16" box tube at the back end.
gonna run 4" channel between the rails every 2ft, and 4" channel as the outrigger deck supports. and cap all that off with a 1/4" angle box on top......... figuring this thing to be 100" wide on the deck and 14ft long.
gonna make the 1st 2ft up front into storage. i'll have a 4"H by 65"W x 2'L area to hide crap. i got some 1x2 channels that i'll use as floor supports and then make a floor with some aluminum sheeting to seal it from below and some hinged lift up doors on the top side.
wheels is gonna be what dictates my height, thinkin 235/80/16's E class,
anyways i'm kinda stalled ATM the woman's car burst a brake line and what i found was horrible so it's gonna be a total rear brake rebuild, all new everything from the MC to the back end. this is not gonna be fun. 400$ in parts from Rock auto......that.s like 30$ in food from taco bell, had i gone anywhere else it would have cost double.
and i been wonderin if maybe a stock soft top would clear my bars and be usable. or i need a weather flap hung from the B bar to keep some heat in the cab. i need some miles b4 the salt hits the road soon.
didn't like how all the trailer suspension tid bits were just raw and sharp so i cleaned those all up and took the sharp edges and corners off b4 painting them.
started to mess with the layout of the trailer. they messed up a bunch of steel at work and trashed it, so i got permission to salvage what i want and i got just about enough 3, 4 and 6" channel to make it all brand new. already got my box shape laid out and ready to be put together.
6" channel for the front beam, 4" channel side rails, to a 3"x3/16" box tube at the back end.
gonna run 4" channel between the rails every 2ft, and 4" channel as the outrigger deck supports. and cap all that off with a 1/4" angle box on top......... figuring this thing to be 100" wide on the deck and 14ft long.
gonna make the 1st 2ft up front into storage. i'll have a 4"H by 65"W x 2'L area to hide crap. i got some 1x2 channels that i'll use as floor supports and then make a floor with some aluminum sheeting to seal it from below and some hinged lift up doors on the top side.
wheels is gonna be what dictates my height, thinkin 235/80/16's E class,
anyways i'm kinda stalled ATM the woman's car burst a brake line and what i found was horrible so it's gonna be a total rear brake rebuild, all new everything from the MC to the back end. this is not gonna be fun. 400$ in parts from Rock auto......that.s like 30$ in food from taco bell, had i gone anywhere else it would have cost double.
and i been wonderin if maybe a stock soft top would clear my bars and be usable. or i need a weather flap hung from the B bar to keep some heat in the cab. i need some miles b4 the salt hits the road soon.
OP
SOB, Rock Auto is on the ball boy. it was all here today. so Fri is Kia brake day.
got a line on a set of trailer wheels and rims 16x6 w/ 235/80/16's class E. they are dated for 2019 and says they been stored inside since removed, hoping to get down there Fri.
i priced new rubber and rims. cheap steelies are 50-60$ea and the tires run about 120-160ea. he's askin 250 for these and they are right out by where i work, so i gotta go peek at um. i got my beams prep'd for a 100" width but if i can get wheels on the hubs and have the real fitting, i might could trim that back to about 94"W i'm guestimating.
soon as the kia is runnin work on the trailer resumes.
got a line on a set of trailer wheels and rims 16x6 w/ 235/80/16's class E. they are dated for 2019 and says they been stored inside since removed, hoping to get down there Fri.
i priced new rubber and rims. cheap steelies are 50-60$ea and the tires run about 120-160ea. he's askin 250 for these and they are right out by where i work, so i gotta go peek at um. i got my beams prep'd for a 100" width but if i can get wheels on the hubs and have the real fitting, i might could trim that back to about 94"W i'm guestimating.
soon as the kia is runnin work on the trailer resumes.
OP
trailer wheel guy forgot he was goin out of town this holiday wkend so we are tentatively reset for mid next week.
and i been diggin into this 14b and shavin it,
and i went ahead and picked up a Crane axle 13 bolt shave cover. this cover does not break into the diff and will net me about 1.25" when all is done. it leaves 1/2" on the table but these guys are all about 14's and don't do it for the same reasons i'm cautious about doing it for.
my maths tellin me the 14 is 2" deeper than my current JK 44. i can/will change the rolling radius and i can level that difference back to similar as far as diff to ground is concerned, and my 1.25" then becomes a "come up" or gain over. with less risk of mistakes. and their cover is a beast with no lip.
and Barnes is having a BF sale so i snagged a 14B pinion guard and a 1T inline TRE, i wanna replace the offset that IDK why i put onto the knuckle end of the drag link.
for a cheaper price point i considered Barnes 13 bolt cover at 3/8" thick and machined flat, but they don't have the metric bolt cover it's listed as out of stock.
and i been diggin into this 14b and shavin it,
and i went ahead and picked up a Crane axle 13 bolt shave cover. this cover does not break into the diff and will net me about 1.25" when all is done. it leaves 1/2" on the table but these guys are all about 14's and don't do it for the same reasons i'm cautious about doing it for.
my maths tellin me the 14 is 2" deeper than my current JK 44. i can/will change the rolling radius and i can level that difference back to similar as far as diff to ground is concerned, and my 1.25" then becomes a "come up" or gain over. with less risk of mistakes. and their cover is a beast with no lip.
and Barnes is having a BF sale so i snagged a 14B pinion guard and a 1T inline TRE, i wanna replace the offset that IDK why i put onto the knuckle end of the drag link.
for a cheaper price point i considered Barnes 13 bolt cover at 3/8" thick and machined flat, but they don't have the metric bolt cover it's listed as out of stock.
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OP
Barnes came through. it's a beast of a pinion guard 3/8" and 1/4"maybe i'll add a few holes in strategic places to lighten the load a hair. a pounds, a pound.
and the kia brakes have been beatin me down. just no room under it and it's real tight quarters in the garage. the dam things a 4.75 ISO bubble flare and 10MM fittings, been fun just to find crap close.
broke a cheapo advanced auto die and none to be had around, then i ran all the way to summit yesterday and the web site said what i wanted was in stock but nope. i let the guy sell me another cheap handheld and i'll be damned if it's not a 4.75mm inverted bubble ( who the F uses that crap).
so i did what i wanted to do last yr and went and bought my last brake tube flare tool. and a good inner/outer reamer.
this baby is titties and beer. load, pull, done.
and the kia brakes have been beatin me down. just no room under it and it's real tight quarters in the garage. the dam things a 4.75 ISO bubble flare and 10MM fittings, been fun just to find crap close.
broke a cheapo advanced auto die and none to be had around, then i ran all the way to summit yesterday and the web site said what i wanted was in stock but nope. i let the guy sell me another cheap handheld and i'll be damned if it's not a 4.75mm inverted bubble ( who the F uses that crap).
so i did what i wanted to do last yr and went and bought my last brake tube flare tool. and a good inner/outer reamer.
this baby is titties and beer. load, pull, done.
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OP
caught the UPS guy sneakin up the driveway.
4" from the crown to the sealing surface. and the sealing surface is machined so smooth it's almost polished. IDK if i could dent this with a sledge hammer.
i laid a quarter on there for scale vs that bottom sealing edge.
it's some beef.
4" from the crown to the sealing surface. and the sealing surface is machined so smooth it's almost polished. IDK if i could dent this with a sledge hammer.
i laid a quarter on there for scale vs that bottom sealing edge.
it's some beef.
That Eastwood brake tool makes life so much easier. After I got mine I said, why the hell did I wait so long!
OP
should be missing more but i'm playin it conservatively.It’s missing a bolt hole….
OP
finally done with that kia i hope. she said it was spongy, so i bled it all out again and now it's nice and stiff. bunch of antilock crap on this thing and maybe something was holding a bubble.
got the garage all cleaned up and got the trailer axles in side.
supposed to be mild tomrw so i'm gonna try and get enough stuff into the basement so i got room to get the 14B in there too, then i can fire the heater and at least work in there on the wkends i can put the jeep out. need a gear set and locker next.
and i got enough materials to start the trailer frame, just need time.
feelin a bit under the weather today, and ready to eat dinner and just chill.
got the garage all cleaned up and got the trailer axles in side.
supposed to be mild tomrw so i'm gonna try and get enough stuff into the basement so i got room to get the 14B in there too, then i can fire the heater and at least work in there on the wkends i can put the jeep out. need a gear set and locker next.
and i got enough materials to start the trailer frame, just need time.
feelin a bit under the weather today, and ready to eat dinner and just chill.
OP
got the pig inside, and couldn't resist tearin into it.
shafts look good, a bit of shine on the splines but no visible wear.
hubs are in good shape, as well as the bearings and the spindles are clean.
sites true though the bore, oil was clean and gears show no signs of odd wear. so i think this axles a go.
and just since i happened to notice it, look at how much lower lip the factory leaves beyond what's used for a sealing surface.
do need new parking brake assy's, they are to crusty to mess with. or maybe locking calipers. not sure if i really want to use those massive OE calipers..
might notice that pile of steel on the left...........that's most of my trailer.
shafts look good, a bit of shine on the splines but no visible wear.
hubs are in good shape, as well as the bearings and the spindles are clean.
sites true though the bore, oil was clean and gears show no signs of odd wear. so i think this axles a go.
and just since i happened to notice it, look at how much lower lip the factory leaves beyond what's used for a sealing surface.
do need new parking brake assy's, they are to crusty to mess with. or maybe locking calipers. not sure if i really want to use those massive OE calipers..
might notice that pile of steel on the left...........that's most of my trailer.
OP
ok, so i'm not gonna work on that pig down on the ground and i needed something sturdy to hold it's weight. so i made this up during lunch over the last couple days. it'll clamp those fat ass tubes and hold it steady for me. just need some big ol casters b4 i toss it on there. i'll whip up a pinion support once it's fitted.
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OP
got that tie rod end on the drag traded out for the straight. everything still clears just fine, supposed to be mild again tomrw so if it's not pourin rain i'm gonna get it out for some miles and test that new link see if it makes any noticeable change.
it wasn't sloppy, just had the potential to roll like the tie rod.
it wasn't sloppy, just had the potential to roll like the tie rod.