Soundbar speaker options

I ended up going with 5.25" Infinity Reference for front/ 6.5" Infinity Reference for rears. Still need to find a direct replacement for the factory sub. I'll likely add the add-on amp Alpine makes for the iLXW650.

I bought this sub, but I haven't installed it yet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TQ6BW2N/?tag=wranglerorg-20

My LJ never had the factory sub (although the console has the grille, strangely enough), so I'm going to have to wire it up myself. Procrastinating until spring so I can do my carpet install at the same time and only have to gut the interior once.
 
Oh, I forgot to mention you ought to print in PETG. Anything that can be in a hot car needs PETG or it might get soft on a summer day.

I used sharp ended machine screws and just screwed them into the rim, no drilling. It's pretty thick and they hold in the plastic solidly.

If you're really paranoid (and I am), you can screw them in once to start the hole, then do it again with gorilla glue on the screw.

Also, make sure to say "That ain't going anywhere" when you're done.
 
If you can fit 6.5s definitely go that route. On my 2002 I just needed to drill new holes for the screws.
 
Also, I went with 6.5s in my dash and in the pods about a year ago. Definitely an improvement, but not as much as I hoped. I went with the cheapest Rockford Fosgates I could get on Amazon. Not sure if I should have went with a slightly better speaker option, or if not putting some filler behind the speakers is what gave me lackluster results, but I feel like they could be better.

Even so, still an improvement over factory.
 
Also, I went with 6.5s in my dash and in the pods about a year ago. Definitely an improvement, but not as much as I hoped. I went with the cheapest Rockford Fosgates I could get on Amazon. Not sure if I should have went with a slightly better speaker option, or if not putting some filler behind the speakers is what gave me lackluster results, but I feel like they could be better.

Even so, still an improvement over factory.

I felt the same way with my previous speakers. The Blaupunkts I just installed changed my mind.
 
In my 99 SE, I went with an Alpine CDE-172BT head unit with their "power pack" KTP-445A module that increases the output to 45 x4 watts. I also installed Select Increments pods (Dash Pods) in the dash with 5.25" Alpine coaxial. I put 6.5" Alpine Coaxial in my Vertically Driven rear sound bar (with modifications) and removed the mid range and tweeter drivers and sealed the whole thing. I picked up a 10" self-powered sub from Walmart (Dual Sub) and mounted it on the tailgate door. This setup is absolutely amazing. Although, I am not super happy with the rear soundbar even with the stuffing in there and all. The soundbar is still a large single chamber with two speakers that are not isolated from each other. The 5.25' speakers up front in the independent sealed pods actually sound more accurate. I just picked up the stock individual rear pods from a Jeep junkyard and will go with 5.25" coaxial in them. If you have a sufficient sub, I really believe you do not need the 6.5" upgrade in the rear soundbar/pods. The extra size will not give you the bass you want in such a noisy vehicle. If you set your high pass filter to cut off anything below 100-120hz to all the 5.25" speakers, then the sub will easily fill in the bottom of your sound. Just for the record, I'm an old classic rock, jazz, jam band kind of guy. Clarity and accuracy are what I'm after. Of course, this all goes out the window when you hit 55 mph with a soft top and MT tires!:rolleyes:
 
In my 99 SE, I went with an Alpine CDE-172BT head unit with their "power pack" KTP-445A module that increases the output to 45 x4 watts. I also installed Select Increments pods (Dash Pods) in the dash with 5.25" Alpine coaxial. I put 6.5" Alpine Coaxial in my Vertically Driven rear sound bar (with modifications) and removed the mid range and tweeter drivers and sealed the whole thing. I picked up a 10" self-powered sub from Walmart (Dual Sub) and mounted it on the tailgate door. This setup is absolutely amazing. Although, I am not super happy with the rear soundbar even with the stuffing in there and all. The soundbar is still a large single chamber with two speakers that are not isolated from each other. The 5.25' speakers up front in the independent sealed pods actually sound more accurate. I just picked up the stock individual rear pods from a Jeep junkyard and will go with 5.25" coaxial in them. If you have a sufficient sub, I really believe you do not need the 6.5" upgrade in the rear soundbar/pods. The extra size will not give you the bass you want in such a noisy vehicle. If you set your high pass filter to cut off anything below 100-120hz to all the 5.25" speakers, then the sub will easily fill in the bottom of your sound. Just for the record, I'm an old classic rock, jazz, jam band kind of guy. Clarity and accuracy are what I'm after. Of course, this all goes out the window when you hit 55 mph with a soft top and MT tires!:rolleyes:

So minus your head unit and sub, how much roughly did that cost? Probably going to do something similar.
 
So minus your head unit and sub, how much roughly did that cost? Probably going to do something similar.

Gosh, tough to remember…
I have links to the dash pods in the post, so then it would be the front 5 1/4 speakers $70?, rear speaker pods ( to be installed). I paid $100 for the two rear pods that I’m upgrading to. I really hope it will sound more accurate and clear with them. I really don’t like the full bar that’s back there now, even with the 6 1/2 speakers.
The key is to get a Good sub and don’t ask your 4 small speakers to reproduce anything under 120hz by using your head units high pass filter. Let the sub do everything from 100hz down. This way you will minimize distortion when you crank it up and get a better overall sound.

UPDATE: After installing the separate speaker pods on the roll bar (Had to drill a hole for the support pin), even with the factory speakers still in them, the sound was much clearer and balanced. I think that hollow full soundbar allows too much crosstalk/interference between the two speakers and is too boxy sounding. I plan on upgrading the 5 1/4 speakers eventually, but it is not a priority due to how satisfied I am with just the factory speakers.
 
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I just upgraded my soundbar speakers to some 230watt Sony 5.25's, running off of the JVC deck. I really wanted to do the 6.5 speakers upgrade, but on a hasty decision decided to not mess with any adapter or extra fab. To be honest, they sound twice as good as the paper cone stock speakers, basically plug and play. Just purchased the 5.25 speaker plate for the dash and when that comes in Ill update on those new speakers in the dash.. Now to contemplate the Double din Apple play ......🤔
 
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I ended up replacing all 4 speakers and the head unit. I went with a Sony double din HU. JL 5.25" in the front, Kicker 5.25 in the sound bar. It sounds much better, not muffled like the 20 year old paper speakers were.
 
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I can still hear the lame dash speakers trying to keep up with the sound bar 5.25's, and so I just ordered the MTX 4x6's for the dash, and the new wireless CarPlay JVC double din from Crutchfield. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KWM785B/JVC-KW-M785BW.html

It will be my first radio install ever.. Ive heard nothing but uber positive things about Crutchfield prewired hardness and customer service. should be a piece of cake. Ive always purchased radios that had free installs. Can't believe ive never done this yet.
 
In my 99 SE, I went with an Alpine CDE-172BT head unit with their "power pack" KTP-445A module that increases the output to 45 x4 watts. I also installed Select Increments pods (Dash Pods) in the dash with 5.25" Alpine coaxial. I put 6.5" Alpine Coaxial in my Vertically Driven rear sound bar (with modifications) and removed the mid range and tweeter drivers and sealed the whole thing. I picked up a 10" self-powered sub from Walmart (Dual Sub) and mounted it on the tailgate door. This setup is absolutely amazing. Although, I am not super happy with the rear soundbar even with the stuffing in there and all. The soundbar is still a large single chamber with two speakers that are not isolated from each other. The 5.25' speakers up front in the independent sealed pods actually sound more accurate. I just picked up the stock individual rear pods from a Jeep junkyard and will go with 5.25" coaxial in them. If you have a sufficient sub, I really believe you do not need the 6.5" upgrade in the rear soundbar/pods. The extra size will not give you the bass you want in such a noisy vehicle. If you set your high pass filter to cut off anything below 100-120hz to all the 5.25" speakers, then the sub will easily fill in the bottom of your sound. Just for the record, I'm an old classic rock, jazz, jam band kind of guy. Clarity and accuracy are what I'm after. Of course, this all goes out the window when you hit 55 mph with a soft top and MT tires!:rolleyes:

That sounds like a good setup! I'll pass that on to my friend. He recently acquired this 99 SE and he's looking for a good sound system. It's in the shop for the installation of the new brake pads and tires from 4Wheelonline this weekend. Interior mods will be next.
 
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I can still hear the lame dash speakers trying to keep up with the sound bar 5.25's, and so I just ordered the MTX 4x6's for the dash, and the new wireless CarPlay JVC double din from Crutchfield. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KWM785B/JVC-KW-M785BW.html

It will be my first radio install ever.. Ive heard nothing but uber positive things about Crutchfield prewired hardness and customer service. should be a piece of cake. Ive always purchased radios that had free installs. Can't believe ive never done this yet.

crutchfield is great, it’ll be no sweat.

did you get the double din bezel?
 
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yeah I bought the bezel and the prewired harness, I hate wiring, so the 24 bucks was a no brainer for me.. the bezel was 50%off as part of the whole package..win win

that harness is totally worth the 24 bucks. PO skipped it on mine and i had a nice wiring project on my hands when i switched back to a stock size radio..
 
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Oh, I forgot to mention you ought to print in PETG. Anything that can be in a hot car needs PETG or it might get soft on a summer day.

Hey boss i was wondering if it would be possible to get a link to this .stl file again? Its getting hot out here in AZ so i removed the PLA test prints i made and am ready to print these again in PETG. Unfortunately i lost the original file..

Also, any setting recommendations for printing in PETG are appreciated.
 
Hey boss i was wondering if it would be possible to get a link to this .stl file again? Its getting hot out here in AZ so i removed the PLA test prints i made and am ready to print these again in PETG. Unfortunately i lost the original file..

Also, any setting recommendations for printing in PETG are appreciated.

Thanks to Chris, I can attach it here now!
 

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