No, my only thoughts are
1) are you concerned about visibility and theft?
2) are you concerned about cargo space, which is already little to none in a TJ, better in a LJ?
3) what can it do that a self-powered sub mounted to the bottom side of the rear seat can do?
Just things to think about. You know your needs
1) are you concerned about visibility and theft?
2) are you concerned about cargo space, which is already little to none in a TJ, better in a LJ?
3) what can it do that a self-powered sub mounted to the bottom side of the rear seat can do?
Just things to think about. You know your needs
i’m not concerned about visibility or theft mainly cause ill be having the top on it mainly.
I’m not concerned about the cargo space since it is used as a fun vechile for me and my dsd and what i drive to work and school.
And for the self powered sub i was kinda wanting to get a bit of a deaper richer sounding bass and i don’t want the sub under the seat to get wet / sandy when i take it to the beach
I’m not concerned about the cargo space since it is used as a fun vechile for me and my dsd and what i drive to work and school.
And for the self powered sub i was kinda wanting to get a bit of a deaper richer sounding bass and i don’t want the sub under the seat to get wet / sandy when i take it to the beach
I have had two different subthump products in my covetable Camaro and love them. He makes great enclosures. I didn’t opt for subthump in my TJ because my needs were different. I’m using a powered JL 12” sub and building a security bracket to make the enclosure removable for wheeling and when more cargo space is needed. This is the model I’m going with: JL Audio ACS112LG-TW1. The power harness is designed for easy and quick removal.
I just finished my audio upgrade and went with the soundstream pico nano 5ch amp under the steering column and a Kicker 48TCWRT102 (10”sub plus 10” passive radiator) box behind the rear seat which fits perfectly. I rigged up an A/B switch and quick disconnect for the sub box so its easy to pull if I need some extra space for whatever reason. The A/B switch flips the amp to send wither 200 watts @ 4ohms to the upgraded kicker center console sub or 350 watts @2ohms to the kicker sub box behind the rear seat. It worked out pretty well for my needs and both sound pretty good although the box has way more kick 
X2. Small and packs a punch. Mine is free floating on the passenger side floor, need to find a mount spot for it.
I didn't have a factory sub, but I can tell you that after you remove everything from inside the console, that it will fit in there.
Depends on budget but I added a dual 10" box from what I call the hands down best all-around car audio maker/designer in the world, Audiotec Fischer. This is powered by a Sounstream ST4.1000 which gets it signal from an Audiotec Fischer amp/dsp.
Cructhfield used to sell the products but no more.
You can also have a box custom made. If you buy the speakers from the same person it will be a good deal. If you need a guy/shop I have one in NJ who can build and ship.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_975PP10ED/MATCH-PP10E-D-Compact-Sub.html
Snowman_1
New Member
I don't, but I see you found that other post with pictures. As someone else stated, this sub isn't for loosening bolts and rattling your rig, but it does give it a much more complete/full sound.
Stick with known name brands when it comes to stereo components. Sound Ordinance is Crutchfield's "Smittybilt". I worked there and know what sucks and doesn't. Discount speakers, amps and stereos are DISCOUNT for a reason.
I agree. But I have to say that this SO has served me well. But I'm also not into blasting tunes anymore.
Similar threads
