if it was pinned I would agree that it was dangerous but this is a spliced eye and actually safer than the one on the TJ.
Oh, so someone splurged on the nice rip-off? If that's the case we can downgrade it from "dangerous" to "poseur."
if it was pinned I would agree that it was dangerous but this is a spliced eye and actually safer than the one on the TJ.
Mon ami absolu!Oh, so someone splurged on the nice rip-off? If that's the case we can downgrade it from "dangerous" to "poseur."
mrblaine said:If you are going to run a hawse suitable for synthetic, that one is about as good as it gets provided the back edge stays away from the rope or is nicely radiused.
I'll have 2 Warn Hawse Fairleads for sale too, or maybe i can bolt them back to back to make one properly radiused fairlead.The Warn hawse fairlead pictured in my previous post has a rear radius of approximately 1/4".
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My existing S*ittybilt roller fairlead is pictured below. It has has standard width mounting holes but is actually narrower than the Warn roller fairleads, something I discovered when I tried to buy a flip-up license plate holder (designed by guess who) and it didn't fit the width between the vertical rollers.
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Slightly narrower is fine. Narrower enough that it forces the wraps to reverse direction before they get to the drum sides is not good.The Warn hawse fairlead pictured in my previous post has a rear radius of approximately 1/4".
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My existing S*ittybilt roller fairlead is pictured below. It has has standard width mounting holes but is actually narrower than the Warn roller fairleads, something I discovered when I tried to buy a flip-up license plate holder (designed by guess who) and it didn't fit the width between the vertical rollers.
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Here's a pic of my Warn M8000 roller fairlead.
I don't see why this fairlead wouldn't be suitable for synthetic.
You can use a pencil to test easily. I'd think a low angle or high angle pull would cut the line.
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I'd only sweat it when the jeep starts to slip into that extreme angle during a recovery and at that point your line goes pop. With steel it's not an issue but still interesting to think about. Does Marked Designs still exist?You'd have to be pulling from a particularly extreme angle to get there. Using hose of approximate size to simulate rope, pulling from pretty extreme angles. At that point, I'd consider re-thinking the pull and find a different attachment point for a safer pull.
I'd only sweat it when the jeep starts to slip into that extreme angle during a recovery and at that point your line goes pop. With steel it's not an issue but still interesting to think about. Does Marked Designs still exist?
I'd only sweat it when the jeep starts to slip into that extreme angle during a recovery and at that point your line goes pop. With steel it's not an issue but still interesting to think about. Does Marked Designs still exist?
A guy from Australia did a youtube video about the difference between cable and synthetic. The short story is the cable recoils and destroys anything in the path. The synthetic snapped back but not as violently. They tied one end to a tree and the other to a bulldozer so there was a lot of tension on both lines when pushed to failure. Moral of the story is be smart and stand out of harms way and definitely don't stand between the jeep and the anchor when pulling.
This discussion or one similar came up on JF a few years ago. Several hopped in to refute the claim that steel cable was immune with experiences that they had cut their steel cables the same way. That is where the faulty design of the roller fairlead showed up as well.I'd only sweat it when the jeep starts to slip into that extreme angle during a recovery and at that point your line goes pop. With steel it's not an issue but still interesting to think about. Does Marked Designs still exist?
We did a video for Ricky showing the reason tubular chafe guards don't work. The load on the new 1/4" synthetic line on an ATV winch was 2 mounted MTR tires. It cut completely through the line in about 6" of movement across the rock we were dragging it over. Far less than 500 lbs with a "chafe" guard and very little travel over the sharp edge.Damage to any synthetic rope (rescue lifeline or winch rope) varies greatly by the load placed on it. As an example, you can run a rope across a piece of angle iron and not cause any damage if there is no load, put a 500 lb. load on it and you will see significant chaffing, put a jeep load on it and it will part and break....... this is why having radius' front and back as recommended by mrblaine is so important......
I'm putting together a small tutorial as a reference on a small scale to help folks understand what happens.
I would be more than happy to assist you in any way I can.We did a video for Ricky showing the reason tubular chafe guards don't work. The load on the new 1/4" synthetic line on an ATV winch was 2 mounted MTR tires. It cut completely through the line in about 6" of movement across the rock we were dragging it over. Far less than 500 lbs with a "chafe" guard and very little travel over the sharp edge.
On a side note- I'll need some input from you regarding forces involved in change of direction pulls using a pulley block. I have ordered a small hand winch, some synthetic cable and my small digital hanging scales have already arrived. I'm putting together a small tutorial as a reference on a small scale to help folks understand what happens.