The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread

Intersting! Though I'm not so sure I'd be worried about the clearance of the SYE. I only say that because if you're getting rocks that close to the driveline, it seems you'd have a lot of other stuff to worry about as well!

Then again, I've never tried it, so I can't speak to it personally.

If anyone has seen one of these in person it would either be @Jerry Bransford or @mrblaine.
 
bobthetj03 said:
Does anyone have any experience with JB Conversion's kit? I've read reviews and such. Looks like their kit offers a better clearance yoke? Not sure how important that would be.
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I have JB Conversions HD Shorty. I figured why not get the shortest and strongest I could find.
 
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Kevin E said:
I have JB Conversions HD Shorty. I figured why not get the shortest and strongest I could find.
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I've read posts where guys have had problems with the speedo on the shorty SYE's. Tone ring or something like that goes defective. Have you experienced this at all?
 
I've got a question about this subject, I just bought a 97 sport and it already had the SYE and cv driveshaft but it also has a t case drop, there's currently no vibration. Should I lose the t-case drop, or should I keep it like it is.
It also has adjustable uca and lca, about six inches of lift.
Thank you.
 
sgtjdgelinas said:
I've got a question about this subject, I just bought a 97 sport and it already had the SYE and cv driveshaft but it also has a t case drop, there's currently no vibration. Should I lose the t-case drop, or should I keep it like it is.
It also has adjustable uca and lca, about six inches of lift.
Thank you.
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That might explain the transfer case drop then. 6" of lift is a lot of lift for a short wheelbase TJ. My guess is the OP did the SYE and still couldn't get rid of the vibes, so he had to lower the skid more to alleviate them.
 
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sgtjdgelinas said:
I've got a question about this subject, I just bought a 97 sport and it already had the SYE and cv driveshaft but it also has a t case drop, there's currently no vibration. Should I lose the t-case drop, or should I keep it like it is.
It also has adjustable uca and lca, about six inches of lift.
Thank you.
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Is that six inches of just suspension lift, or is it a combination of suspension and body lift?
 
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Newbie Alert!!

I've got a 2016 Wrangler TJ, how do I verify whether or not I have a NP241OR Rock-Trac transfer case?

Got a 3" Suspension lift, plan to do a tummy-tuck and want to eliminate any risk of the yoke from slipping out...

Thanks!
 
G-Whiz said:
Newbie Alert!!

I've got a 2016 Wrangler TJ, how do I verify whether or not I have a NP241OR Rock-Trac transfer case?

Got a 3" Suspension lift, plan to do a tummy-tuck and want to eliminate any risk of the yoke from slipping out...

Thanks!
Click to expand...

No such thing as a 2016 TJ. The TJ was only made from 1997-2006.

Is yours a Rubicon model? If it is, you have the Rock Track transfer case. If not, then you don't have it. Only the Rubicon models came with it.
 
How important is length on the rear driveshaft? Are they all pretty similar? So here's my problem.. I have a Currie 4 inch I'm going to put in with a sye. I have a Dana 35 rear right now but going to be building an 8.8. I just want to "get by" for now with the Dana 35. I don't want to spend big bucks on 2 different driveshafts. Will a cheap one get me by? And any recommendations for a cheap one?
 
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I've heard of folks getting a front drive shaft out of an XJ or TJ from a wrecking yard and having it cut down and re-balanced. Don't know how much you'd save that way. Cheapest CV drive shaft I've found so far is $265 new.
 
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Kyle said:
How important is length on the rear driveshaft? Are they all pretty similar? So here's my problem.. I have a Currie 4 inch I'm going to put in with a sye. I have a Dana 35 rear right now but going to be building an 8.8. I just want to "get by" for now with the Dana 35. I don't want to spend big bucks on 2 different driveshafts. Will a cheap one get me by? And any recommendations for a cheap one?
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The length is important because during of the suspension travel. if it is too big the splines in the middle of the driveshaft will have no room for travel, If it is too small it may separate in half at the splines during offroad articulation.

You may want to see how much bigger is the 8.8 vs the Dana 35. the the difference is not much you should be ok having one made for the 8.8 but be usable on the Dana 35. Now that said As long as the yokes are the same on a Dana 35 and a 8.8. I don't know since I have never used a 8.8
 
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Kyle said:
How important is length on the rear driveshaft? Are they all pretty similar? So here's my problem.. I have a Currie 4 inch I'm going to put in with a sye. I have a Dana 35 rear right now but going to be building an 8.8. I just want to "get by" for now with the Dana 35. I don't want to spend big bucks on 2 different driveshafts. Will a cheap one get me by? And any recommendations for a cheap one?
Click to expand...

Length is important, very important. You're going to need a new driveshaft, I'd bet on it.
 
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IMG_1192.JPG
Ok, I've got a 4" lift on my PO TJ... trying to figure out if this thing has an SYE or not (probably not because there's a T-case drop) Here's pics.
 
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