The Sienna Pearl

Love where you're headed with the build. Maybe a cargo net would look nice on your (far superior) build. :unsure:
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Stance looks good, are you still happy with the 1" spring lift or wish you went higher?

I'm very happy, but I realize it's not for everyone. It's exactly where I want it. It's the look I prefer and the wife doesn't struggle too bad getting in. I wouldn't change it at the moment. It fits my current needs.
 
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I don't see any big money expenditures happening to the Jeep for a few 6 months. Priorities are focused elsewhere at the moment. However, I plan to modernize with some accessories to keep me occupied over that time period. Last night I finished up installing a Gentex 177 rear view mirror —-> https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-install-a-gentex-177-compass-mirror-in-a-tj-lj.15323/. This gave me a compass and outside temperature reading. The little things... I forgot to smile!

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Found this video —->
and I installed the Big 3 - Battery Cable Kit and a couple of Spod's last week. I need to come up with something to add rocker switches in my dash under the radio. Then I can hook up some new lights.

Been researching some more on axles. I just can't make up my mind. One minute I convince myself that the Super 30 and Super 35 will meet my off-roading needs. Then that little devil on my shoulder keeps whispering, "Find a HP30 and Dana 44 to build instead". The latter will definitely cost me more considering I already own the Dana 30 and Dana 35.

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Just found this thread. Really nice looking rig man. I'll be honest when you first described what your plans were I wasn't sure but man you brought it together and those pics in post #39 look great. Kudos to you for having a vision/plan and sticking to it! Way to hang in there on all those bolts as well. I'm following. 👍
 
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Unless you can get the Dana 44 rear for super cheap, it's just not worth swapping when you could do a Super 35 instead.
 
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Found a post on here about removing the ash tray and adding a second switch panel in it's place —-> http://dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=674. I found the parts that I needed and began modifying. Overall I thought it turned out ok. Better than it looked before and it solved my dilemma for where I was going to add those extra switches. I have more switches than I know what to do with now!

Here are a few pictures from my install. Connecting the two pieces together, adding OTRATTW switches, wiring, and finished product. I also added a 3.0 USB charger into the second power outlet and an individual switch next to the original cigarette lighter. That switch is for turning off and on the bottom LED's across the rockers. That's how the pre-wired ones came from SPOD, so I copied! Now I need to start hooking up some accessories to these switches....
 
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Those switches do absolutely nothing right now. A couple of them may be working here soon though. I bought some fog lights, A-Pillar lights, and rock lights from Inspired Engineering during their Christmas sale. They have just been sitting here waiting on me to install the sPOD's. Now I can start installing them.

Had an unexpected sale, so I am getting closer to having money saved up to re-do my axles. Really would be nice if a couple of those switches would actuate some selectable lockers...in due time.
 
Got a few accessories hooked up to my new switches. These were easy to hook up and I already had them sitting there waiting on me to install. The last time Inspired Engineering ran a sale promotion I purchased some of there Revolver A Pillar lights and rock lights. I mounted spot lights on the A pillars and flood lights on the front bumper. Then finished up with the rock lights.

I think I have made up my mind on axles. Still need to save a few more dollars before I can pull it off though. Anyway, I ordered the small ARB air compressor to use for lockers. That may be my next item to install. That or a power converter that I have waiting on me as well.
 
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Took the time this weekend to mount and hook up a Warn M8000-s winch. I also purchased the Warn power interrupt kit. I found a place to mount the solenoid and wired it to one of my SPOD switches. I then mounted the winch and completed wiring it up. After completing, I crossed my fingers and tried it out. At this point I was happy because everything worked as it should. Flip the toggle switch in the cab which activated the solenoid and the winch had power. Plugged in the dongle and it worked like it should.

Unfortunately, I also tried to add an in cab switch to be able to operate the winch without the dongle. Needless to say, I haven't been able to get it to work yet. I suppose I need to do some more research to see where I went wrong. I bought 15' of extension cord wire. Inside my Warn control pack I hooked the white wire from the extension cord to the main positive wire which goes to the battery. I figured that would power the momentary DPDT toggle switch I bought for inside the cab. Once in the cab, I have it connected to both of the center terminals on my DPDT switch. I then connected the green wire from the extension cord to the Warn green wire at terminal A inside the control pack. Likewise connected the black wire from the extension cord to the Warn black wire at terminal C in the control pack. From what I researched, that should be the IN and OUT controls for the motor. Inside the cab I hooked each of those two extension cord wires to opposing top side terminals on my switch. Then pigtailed and crossed to opposite bottom terminals.

Through my research, I'm fairly sure this should have worked. Unfortunately, it did not. If any of you have done this before and know where I went wrong I would appreciate any help or ideas on what to check. Until then, I'll further my research.

I guess I should be happy. At least the winch works with the supplied dongle!

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EDIT: Ok, I was doing some more research and I might have found the problem in my wiring. It looks like I need to run a ground wire to the control pack solenoid. I was looking through ac_'s post and found a picture he took of his wiring. I attached his picture below. I did not add the far left ground wire (yellow insulator) to the #2 center terminal in front. I should have some time in a couple days to try that. Praying it works!
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Amen! I was able to get my in cab winch toggle switch to work correctly tonight. This is what I ended up with. I wired one of my SPOD toggle switches located above my mirror to the Warn power interrupt kit. This activates the solenoid to enable power to run from my battery to the winch. This in turn also activates the momentary DPDT toggle switch I mounted in the cab just to the left of my steering wheel. Turn off the SPOD switch and neither the winch, nor the in cab switch have power. When turned on, I can use either the stock plug in dongle, or the in cab switch.

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It's been a little while since I have had anything to update. I have been saving like mad and sold a few things to make some purchases. I ended up with new axles and a tummy tuck. A local shop talked me into some G2 Dana 44 axles. They have the larger tubes and JK ring and pinion. I ended up converting to disk brakes on the back, chromoly shafts front and back, and 4.56 gears to match up with my 32RH 3 speed auto transmission. I also had ARB front and rear lockers installed.

For my tummy tuck, I ended up going with the UCF Ultra High Clearance transfer case skid. I also went with the Tom Woods slip yoke eliminator and front and rear drive shafts. I ended up with around 3" more clearance.
 
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I went and splurged for a new Genright Crawler gas tank with skid plate. I've always had my gas tank slightly leak if I filled it completely. I suspected needing a new seal for the fuel pump, but I knew I would like to get one of these Genright tanks eventually.

Turns out the lock ring and seal needed replaced. Much better! My gas smell has gone away, I have better clearence in the back, and better protection with the skid plate.

Also replaced my windshield washer fluid pump. Sometimes it's the little things...lol. Working on a few more modifications as well. Hope to post some more updates before too much longer.

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Oh I about forgot! While the gas tank was out we found the evap line running from the top of the gas tank to the engine bay had a leak. Replaced that and now my check engine light is no longer on! I have replaced a few other evap lines in the past, but that darn check engine light has been on since I bought it 4-5 years ago. That evap line has a metal section that runs along the inside of the frame. It had a spot that was leaking near the back drivers side tire. The metal section was replaced. Going on 2 weeks now without that pesky check engine light!