My opinion is as long as you can keep at least 4 inches of up travel you are golden. Raising the Frame as high as you can only raises your center of gravity and does absolutely nothing to get your control arm mounts at the axle, steering and differentials out of the way. A 2.5 SL, 1.25 BL and a 1inch MML with the required track bars (F &R) and extended sway bar links will take you everywhere a 4 inch will. The only thing that you will really want is the extended travel shocks to allow more droop (Then you run into extending the brake lines anyway.
A 2.5 SL, 1.25BL and highline fenders will get you to fit 37's in the front. So High Lines aren't needed for 33's. In the rear you will really want to stretch the axle back 5 inches to stay close to factory specs and keep your departure angle small. Doing a High clearance skid will also keep your break over angle reasonable.
View attachment 120234View attachment 120235 37's with the 2.5SL and 1.25 BL and high lines
View attachment 120236View attachment 120237 37;s with cut and chop rear and front diy high lines.
So in my personal experience. The taller SL isn't required at all compared to a smaller SL, BL and MML,
View attachment 120238View attachment 120239 This is the 2.5 SL and 1.25 BL on 33's and there was never a time I wish I had a Taller lift when I took the 33;s through the same trail as posted above when I ran the 37's and DIY high lines.
So in my opinion from daily driving my jeep and rock crawling with it, a Smaller lift with Highlines would be the same as a Larger SL. The larger SL all you are doing is raising up your Center of Gravity and improving your Break over angle. You aren't raising your catch points which is steering, diffs and brackets on the axle. If you keep getting high centered and catching your frame and skid on rocks. Means you probably just aren't picking the best line through whatever obstacle you are trying to get through.