The ultimate setup for 33 inch tires?

Vasq said:
I don't want to add ride height, I solely want my bump stops to function like they should and have no arc. I'm probably jumping the gun way to fast, but my overall concern for all these questions is that the MC springs might be pain and i also might have too much lift..
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A big reason I think Metalcloak coils are dumb is because they can be the cause needlessly limited up travel. :)
 
jjvw said:
A big reason I think Metalcloak coils are dumb is because they can be the cause needlessly limited up travel. :)
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i'm starting to realize that. I am considering moving to a "standard" type coil so my bumps can simply be determined by my fenders eating my tires.
 
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I read every comment in this thread. Thank you all for sharing your knowledge. A question I still have is: is the body lift a must for a better riding (on/offroad) experience, or is it just a way to avoid additional costs?
 
Byhumba said:
I read every comment in this thread. Thank you all for sharing your knowledge. A question I still have is: is the body lift a must for a better riding (on/offroad) experience, or is it just a way to avoid additional costs?
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The body lift shouldn't effect the ride quality, but I can only speak to the aluminum puck lift. It also adds a little lift while making way for a tummy tuck down the road.
 
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Byhumba said:
.... A question I still have is: is the body lift a must for a better riding (on/offroad) experience, or is it just a way to avoid additional costs?
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The body lift is a means to an end. When raising up the undersides it is easier to use a body lift than it is to cut apart the body.
 
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Vasq said:
The body lift shouldn't effect the ride quality, but I can only speak to the aluminum puck lift. It also adds a little lift while making way for a tummy tuck down the road.
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Mine has had both a polyurethane and an aluminum body lift. I noticed that the Jeep was actually quieter with fewer rattles after the aluminum pucks went in.
 
jjvw said:
Mine has had both a polyurethane and an aluminum body lift. I noticed that the Jeep was actually quieter with fewer rattles after the aluminum pucks went in.
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huh, that's interesting. Like the poly was just squeaky? maybe allowed for a very small amount of play? I've only read that the poly ones are hard to get the correct torque because they compress, sometimes not equally to each other.
 
Vasq said:
The body lift shouldn't effect the ride quality, but I can only speak to the aluminum puck lift. It also adds a little lift while making way for a tummy tuck down the road.
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jjvw said:
The body lift is a means to an end. When raising up the undersides it is easier to use a body lift than it is to cut apart the body.
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Thanks. If I understand this correctly, changes to the body, whether it is cutting body parts or a BL, are an absolute must for additional tire clearance and/or a tummy tuck?
 
Vasq said:
... I've only read that the poly ones are hard to get the correct torque because they compress, sometimes not equally to each other.
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That inability to ever be tight is where the extra movement comes from. Movement is noisey.
 
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Byhumba said:
Thanks. If I understand this correctly, changes to the body, whether it is cutting body parts or a BL, are an absolute must for additional tire clearance and/or a tummy tuck?
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There comes a point where the body is just in the way of what you want to do. The options are either to move it away with a body lift, change parts like highline fenders, or cut it away. Sometimes all three will happen.
 
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mrblaine said:
In for a penny, in for a pound.
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I'm working on it. ;)
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Vasq said:
ah HA! just the man I was looking for, I have a question for you.
In your experience, do the savvy (currie) 3" springs settle between 2.5-3 inches of lift? 😁
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Don't know, don't use them. I don't see the value in them, I don't like the shock options for short lift heights, I don't see the value in outboarding a shock to solve that problem at that lift height, and I gave away the last set I had because I despised them so much.

That is a case of the tail wagging the dog. Why 3" springs? If you wanna split that particular hair, run a 4" with no body lift for your 33's and actually build a useful suspension. That way when you get done dicking around, get it set up right and finally move to 35's, all you need is a body lift and 35's.
 
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mrblaine said:
Don't know, don't use them. I don't see the value in them, I don't like the shock options for short lift heights, I don't see the value in outboarding a shock to solve that problem at that lift height, and I gave away the last set I had because I despised them so much.

That is a case of the tail wagging the dog. Why 3" springs? If you wanna split that particular hair, run a 4" with no body lift for your 33's and actually build a useful suspension. That way when you get done dicking around, get it set up right and finally move to 35's, all you need is a body lift and 35's.
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Oh I wasn't planning on outboarding the rear shocks. and I've got the body lift to clear the TT so I can't get rid of that either. I only ask because I am not too happy with all the extra bump I need for the MC springs and wanted something that would net me roughly the same lift height I'm at now. Not plans for 35s :)

But, if you despise them that's fine. I just thought you might have a little experience with them.
 
AndyG said:
My 03 Rubicon is by no means the TJ to define anything , but I have 12.5" x 33" tires on 15" beadlocks , a 4" lift , a 5 speed manual with 4:56 gears.

I can get in it and drive from Huntsville to anywhere, anytime and have travelled all over the south with it . You can drive 65-75 with one finger. It does great on the interstate.

I wheel in Alabama and Tennessee , and the only thing that holds me back is my own apprehension,lack of skill and strong tendency to not be beat it to pieces. ...and my wife screaming and bailing out .

The key for what you are describing , in my opinion, is

- a tire that works in both terrains well enough, and that varies around the country. Narrow width has advantages ,lighter , and in some cases they bite better and typically steer better ,but wide tires have a big foot print and look good .

- proper clearance for the trails you travel

-proper articulation without anything rubbing

- proper gearing for the tire size.

- a good ,solid front end ,Rancho 5000x shocks or simar well tuned shocks , and perfectly balanced tires.

All these , regardless of lift and size, are what gets it done. There are many ways to get there.

I know I'm being general ,but I have driven a lot of Jeeps , with a lot of set ups , and I favor good manners and performance over appearance ,and I love the way a lifted TJ looks ...if it works right .
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How about an applause for this response. Finally someone who gets it right “function over (form) looks and appearance “. I too will take on and off road manners over how it looks and my LJ is bad ass and gets the job done well.
 
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burghermike said:
How about an applause for this response. Finally someone who gets it right “function over (form) looks and appearance “. I too will take on and off road manners over how it looks and my LJ is bad ass and gets the job done well.
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Thank you.... I can't tell you how much I appreciate that post.

If something is good... It is good.

If you enjoy it and have fun and it is safe... And you're proud of what you have... You are good to go.
 
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I'm not really into body lifts. Mainly because of the odd gaps on top of the bumpers & side steps/rock sliders. And more so on other trucks. I get that making some room for the TT & more room under the trans pan. But more spring lift does too. And ultimately you want as much spring travel as possible, so probably 4" or 5" depending on what fenders you like.
 
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