Transfer case linkage issue

Yeah, I'm with you. I'd be a bit surprised if Crown couldn't make a simple pin switch. Seems like it would be easy to test on a bench as well.

I'm actually surprised by this as well.

I understand the more sophisticated sensors such as the Camshaft Position Sensor for instance, but I believe this transfer case switch is vacuum (or fluid?) operated. In which case, it would seem pretty hard to mess that up... but I suppose I wouldn't put it past Crown.

Does anyone know for certain how that switch is actuated? Is it vacuum or fluid?
 
I'm actually surprised by this as well.

I understand the more sophisticated sensors such as the Camshaft Position Sensor for instance, but I believe this transfer case switch is vacuum (or fluid?) operated. In which case, it would seem pretty hard to mess that up... but I suppose I wouldn't put it past Crown.

Does anyone know for certain how that switch is actuated? Is it vacuum or fluid?
The Crown part does get 2 bad reviews on Amazon. Not sure how it is actuated, I thought mechanical.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RQMYPM4/?tag=wranglerorg-20

The Mopar part has some interesting reviews that might help the OP:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NPB57C/?tag=wranglerorg-20

It’s a mechanically operated switch. The shift shaft cam actuates it.
 
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Ahh, in that case, maybe it isn't the sensor after all.

Chris, shifting from 2WD to 4H engages fine but my indicator light never comes on but I am in 4H. Where should I look first? Thanks!


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Chris, shifting from 2WD to 4H engages fine but my indicator light never comes on but I am in 4H. Where should I look first? Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not entirely sure, but I would be following this thread if I were you, as it sounds like you may have the same issue.
 
Chris, shifting from 2WD to 4H engages fine but my indicator light never comes on but I am in 4H. Where should I look first? Thanks!


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First thing I would check would be the indicator bulb at the rear of the gauge cluster.
 
A little update. The new sensor arrived and I installed. It worked. As I went through the motions of 2WD to 4WD to N to 4Low it appeared to work as expected. I then attempted to get the Lockers to work while in 4 Low and that is when things went south. The lockers both blinked and never fully stayed on. As I was waiting, the Lockers front and rear and 4WD lights ALL went off. I then drove the Jeep around the property and confirmed I was in the correct sections, which seem to be correct. Its just the lights went off. I don't know if now I have an electrical issue or the Brand New sensor is already toast. It may even be the dash lights. I will investigate more by the weekend. Ahhhh the joys.

I have some info on the sensor internals which may surprise some on how it works. That will be my next post.
 
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Exploded diagram of the sensor.
WIN_20181218_15_09_27_Pro.jpg


The "board" for lack of a better word and the piece that slides over the board making contacts as the plunger moves it.
WIN_20181218_15_10_38_Pro.jpg

How they fit in the casing
WIN_20181218_15_11_24_Pro.jpg

WIN_20181218_15_12_12_Pro.jpg
 
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These next photos show how the connection works for both pieces and also the prongs that make contact. I believe the Sensor quit working because of the Bent or curled up prongs. This was the Sensor in the Jeep when I purchased. I can only assume its original from the Factory, but can not confirm.

WIN_20181218_15_12_54_Pro.jpg

WIN_20181218_15_13_27_Pro.jpg

WIN_20181218_15_15_26_Pro.jpg

WIN_20181218_15_16_39_Pro.jpg

WIN_20181218_15_16_55_Pro.jpg
 
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Like most of us, I ditched the crappy stock transfer case linkage a while back for the much better Savvy cable shifter unit.

Having said that, I wonder... is the shifter installed properly?

I suppose it's also possible that some damage was done to the transfer case itself.
@Chris Can you post a link to the savvy cable shifter upgrade? Thank you sir!
 
Exploded diagram of the sensor.
View attachment 68401


The "board" for lack of a better word and the piece that slides over the board making contacts as the plunger moves it.
View attachment 68402

How they fit in the casing
View attachment 68403

View attachment 68404
These next photos show how the connection works for both pieces and also the prongs that make contact. I believe the Sensor quit working because of the Bent or curled up prongs. This was the Sensor in the Jeep when I purchased. I can only assume its original from the Factory, but can not confirm.

View attachment 68408

View attachment 68409

View attachment 68410

View attachment 68411

View attachment 68412
Interesting switch. I think your correct on the failure analysis, good job. Those components soldered into the circuit board kind of look like diodes. If so, they didn’t want current flowing the wrong direction for some reason.
 
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On a Rubicon, there is an electrical connection where the vehicle indicates to the lockers that the transfer case is in 4-wheel low., Limiting locker use to 4 low only.

That is the only thing I can think of that would trigger the light to quit working when you engage the lockers... As if somehow it is shorting out through that circuit...

There are guys here that know the system better than I do and I think someone might be able to help you determine if that series of connections could be the issue.
 
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A little update. The new sensor arrived and I installed. It worked. As I went through the motions of 2WD to 4WD to N to 4Low it appeared to work as expected. I then attempted to get the Lockers to work while in 4 Low and that is when things went south. The lockers both blinked and never fully stayed on. As I was waiting, the Lockers front and rear and 4WD lights ALL went off. I then drove the Jeep around the property and confirmed I was in the correct sections, which seem to be correct. Its just the lights went off. I don't know if now I have an electrical issue or the Brand New sensor is already toast. It may even be the dash lights. I will investigate more by the weekend. Ahhhh the joys.

I have some info on the sensor internals which may surprise some on how it works. That will be my next post.

The following may help you diagnose the issues.
9900DF63-50CB-4581-8E27-46C2889E8280.jpeg
59EAC366-CB80-41ED-9C5F-2E3EAFC88E3A.jpeg
6DA65E40-7078-4021-B4B6-623BE62400E7.jpeg
F8D91E0A-5403-4669-A0F5-F61BDC2BF390.jpeg
 
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The switch you replaced is just a NO (normally open) pin switch.
No, it is a 6 position switch, the TJ uses 4 of them. Based on electrical resistance as the the pin slides. It identifies 2WD, 4HI, N, 4LO.

On the Rubi it controls the lockers too.

Might be wrong, the Rubi has a 6 position sensor, maybe not the Sport.
 
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No, it is a 6 position switch, the TJ uses 4 of them. Based on electrical resistance as the the pin slides. It identifies 2WD, 4HI, N, 4LO.

On the Rubi it controls the lockers too.

Augh, thanks for the clarification. Those are resistors on the circuit board. That makes sense.
 
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No, it is a 6 position switch, the TJ uses 4 of them. Based on electrical resistance as the the pin slides. It identifies 2WD, 4HI, N, 4LO.

On the Rubi it controls the lockers too.

Might be wrong, the Rubi has a 6 position sensor, maybe not the Sport.

Interesting, I was wondering that earlier, but was not sure. I do wonder if the non-Rubicon models also use the same potentiometer. If so, they likely don't react to all 6 voltage ranges like the Rubi does. At least we can understand how these things would be acting very strangely when they wear out and voltage is no longer reported correctly for each position.
 
Interesting, I was wondering that earlier, but was not sure. I do wonder if the non-Rubicon models also use the same potentiometer. If so, they likely don't react to all 6 voltage ranges like the Rubi does. At least we can understand how these things would be acting very strangely when they wear out and voltage is no longer reported correctly for each position.
What I find troubling is that the wiring diagrams show the switch as a NO contact switch, which isn’t true. The only vague description is in the last paragraph of how the EMIC (electromechanical instrument cluster) is programmed to the different inputs of the switch.
D59A1144-94F5-4A8E-BB12-B71F1900DBAF.jpeg
 
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Interesting, I was wondering that earlier, but was not sure. I do wonder if the non-Rubicon models also use the same potentiometer. If so, they likely don't react to all 6 voltage ranges like the Rubi does.
Non-Rubicons use the 231 tcase which has a simple on-off switch whose sole job is to illuminate the 4x4 indicator on the instrument panel. The Rubicon has a 241 tcase which uses the multiposition switch to let the computer know when it's in 2Hi, 4Hi, and 4Lo.