So here's my plan...tell me your thoughts.
An under (front) seat powered subs looked like an viable option but I was able to source a factory console sub insert. The consoles that I have found locally or on Ebay are for the most part a mess. I considered a Tuffy but they don't come in my interior color. At the price they're asking, I can't see buying one and still need to refinish it. My existing, while without the speaker grill opening, is in excellent shape so I was thinking of removing or modifying the white plastic insert to the point were I can fit the sub insert. Following some of the other threads on the forum, I will replace the sub with one of these (Kicker CompRT 43CWRT671 or 43CWRT672) and just keep my existing head unit.
https://www.crutchfield.com/g_520/A...=FFBrand|Kicker&nvpair=FFSize|[rank15]6-3/4%2
Now here's the tricky part. In order to create an opening for sound to release from the console, rather than cutting a 7" or so hole in the driver side of my console, would it it be feasible to cut a grid in the console itself to replicate a later model console's driver side "opening" (if that makes sense)? I was following this thread but it appears a metal grill on the outside may pose a problem with seat or seatbelt rub.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/making-a-non-sub-console-into-a-sub-console.29402/
So if this approach would work, I'll do the necessary dremel work and create the new grill opening. Would it be enough to power my 4 speakers from the head unit's power and use a mono amp for the sub or should I go with a 5 channel amp and power the whole works? If you have amp recommendations for either that would be awesome too. Also, I'm not sure which sub to go with - 1 ohm or 2 ohm. (and frankly, I'm having a hard time understanding the difference, LOL).
From what I read here, an under seat powered sub is a good option, but the 6.75" in console sub with amp is better. My goal is to just have a better sound with the top off...no need to rattle the windows from a block away.