What are the benefits of manual locking hubs?

You're more apt to damage an inner than the outer stub. I would suggest if you're going to carry spares it should be the inners and at least 1 outer and and extra ujoints.
Since you seem to be unable to grasp the basics of this due to a lot of variables, we can just break it down very simply. He has 30 spline inners. That will be the last thing to break in almost all instances for a front axle.

At almost no point in time is a yoke salvageable after a u-joint break even with alloy outers. It does happen but is so rare as to not count on it ever.

Carrying spare u-joints with the intent to just swap them into the existing yokes after a break is a fool's errand.
 
Since you seem to be unable to grasp the basics of this due to a lot of variables, we can just break it down very simply. He has 30 spline inners. That will be the last thing to break in almost all instances for a front axle.

At almost no point in time is a yoke salvageable after a u-joint break even with alloy outers. It does happen but is so rare as to not count on it ever.

Carrying spare u-joints with the intent to just swap them into the existing yokes after a break is a fool's errand.
With 30 spline inners is the ujoints/yokes the weak point or the hub? Or is it a wash and just depends on the situation? I would much rather have a hub go than shafts.
 
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With 30 spline inners is the ujoints/yokes the weak point or the hub? Or is it a wash and just depends on the situation? I would much rather have a hub go than shafts.
Small hub will break with the wheels straight ahead before the larger 30/19 spline Warn hub. After that, the u-joint/yokes are next with reasonably same incidence rate as 27 spline inners. Wheels turned, u-joint/yokes will generally break before the hub. Somewhere in that mix is the 27 spline inner.

If you are running the small hubs with 27 spline inners, all bets are off. It could be the inner/yoke/hub with a pretty good tie between them.

If you are running 30 spline inners and the small hub, then it is a fairly close tie between the hub/joint and yokes.

If you are running 30 spline inners, the large 30/19 spline Warn hubs, then it is a reasonable tie between the hub and joints/yokes.

If you are running 30 spline inners and the Yukon hardcore hubs with the 5.5" conversion then the likelihood of the inners and hubs breaking is next to zero.

If you are running RCV with the 30 spline inner and 30 spline outer for the 5.5" hub kit with the hardcore hubs, then it very likely that the bell will blow up slightly more often that twisting off the stub. The inner will be almost never only because I believe it is possible but we've never heard of it.
 
Since you seem to be unable to grasp the basics of this due to a lot of variables, we can just break it down very simply. He has 30 spline inners. That will be the last thing to break in almost all instances for a front axle.

At almost no point in time is a yoke salvageable after a u-joint break even with alloy outers. It does happen but is so rare as to not count on it ever.

Carrying spare u-joints with the intent to just swap them into the existing yokes after a break is a fool's errand.
I'm fully able to grasp the basics, but what was clear in your mind was clear as mud to people reading what you posted. When I first responded to him, no, I didn't know he had 30 spline inners or a Rubicon 44 up front for that matter, because that information had not been given in this thread.

In all earnest I had not thought about the damage done to a yoke when a u-joint brakes because I have seen one brake and be swapped out on the trail with no visible damage to the yokes. But carrying spare u-joints would be no more "a fools errand" as you put it, than carrying spare axle shafts. Indeed braking a u-joint may damage the yoke, but u-joints do go bad without braking and wouldn't it be prudent to carry spares for that likelihood?

My main reason for questioning your posts was for clarification.

As with anything mechanical, you can never fully predict what "will" happen, but I think everyone can agree it's best to be armed with knowledge of what can and how. Also what can be done to mitigate or fix what does happen.
 
I'm fully able to grasp the basics, but what was clear in your mind was clear as mud to people reading what you posted. When I first responded to him, no, I didn't know he had 30 spline inners or a Rubicon 44 up front for that matter, because that information had not been given in this thread.

In all earnest I had not thought about the damage done to a yoke when a u-joint brakes because I have seen one brake and be swapped out on the trail with no visible damage to the yokes. But carrying spare u-joints would be no more "a fools errand" as you put it, than carrying spare axle shafts. Indeed braking a u-joint may damage the yoke, but u-joints do go bad without braking and wouldn't it be prudent to carry spares for that likelihood?

My main reason for questioning your posts was for clarification.

As with anything mechanical, you can never fully predict what "will" happen, but I think everyone can agree it's best to be armed with knowledge of what can and how. Also what can be done to mitigate or fix what does happen.
I've seen one breakage of a u-joint ever that didn't render one or both yokes too damaged to reuse.
 
Small hub will break with the wheels straight ahead before the larger 30/19 spline Warn hub. After that, the u-joint/yokes are next with reasonably same incidence rate as 27 spline inners. Wheels turned, u-joint/yokes will generally break before the hub. Somewhere in that mix is the 27 spline inner.

If you are running the small hubs with 27 spline inners, all bets are off. It could be the inner/yoke/hub with a pretty good tie between them.

If you are running 30 spline inners and the small hub, then it is a fairly close tie between the hub/joint and yokes.

If you are running 30 spline inners, the large 30/19 spline Warn hubs, then it is a reasonable tie between the hub and joints/yokes.

If you are running 30 spline inners and the Yukon hardcore hubs with the 5.5" conversion then the likelihood of the inners and hubs breaking is next to zero.

If you are running RCV with the 30 spline inner and 30 spline outer for the 5.5" hub kit with the hardcore hubs, then it very likely that the bell will blow up slightly more often that twisting off the stub. The inner will be almost never only because I believe it is possible but we've never heard of it.
This was a cool breakdown to read
 
So I had another thought on the usefulness of the hub lockers…with the atlas 4 speed, I can’t flat tow without disconnecting the drive shafts, which isn’t hard, but with the locking hubs I should be able to leave the front shaft connnected, saving time and I also think just wear and tear on the unjoint clamp (is that the right term?).

I’m planning a long trip, and love driving my insane build on long trips, but I think I might get better gas mileage flat towing the wrangler behind my 2020 Grand Cherokee…haven’t tested this theory yet though.

I guess the ultimate question is occasionally disconnecting the drive shafts a few times a year doing any significant wear and tear to the clamps/bolts/yoke/joint? My first time, lacking in experience, I actually broke the bolt in the pinion yoke and had to replace that…so if I have one less drive shaft to do, that’s less room for mistakes from a clutch…
 
Yup. Most install them to improve caster/handling and vibration issues. Love mine, best $850 I have spent improving those issues.

New here maybe I missed it but how are you converting to locking hubs for 850? Is there a thread to piece it all together cheaper than the kits? Thanks Jeff
 
New here maybe I missed it but how are you converting to locking hubs for 850? Is there a thread to piece it all together cheaper than the kits? Thanks Jeff

Even if someone gave you the discontinued Reid knuckles, you'd still have more than 850 piecing the rest of it together. Watch for deals, used one that need some minor refurb, and that's about it. Given that a pair of spindles that work and fit the TJ knuckle are over 600, you likely won't piece together anything new.
 
Even if someone gave you the discontinued Reid knuckles, you'd stilll have more than 850 piecing the rest of it together. Watch for deals, used one that need some minor refurb, and that's about it. Given that a pair of spindles that work and fit the TJ knuckle are over 600, you likely won't piece together anything new.

Yeah thats why his post confused me. I thought maybe I was missing out on something. I just got the tj yesterday and was thinking of using it behind my rv. But I am doubting that now as I tow triples and tow my boat behind the cherokee trailhawk. Which has unit bearings etc. Not as weak of axles as the tj. I havent ever looked at a tj prior to picking up this one I bought on a whim.
 
Yeah thats why his post confused me. I thought maybe I was missing out on something. I just got the tj yesterday and was thinking of using it behind my rv. But I am doubting that now as I tow triples and tow my boat behind the cherokee trailhawk. Which has unit bearings etc. Not as weak of axles as the tj. I havent ever looked at a tj prior to picking up this one I bought on a whim.

How much stress would the boat put on the Jeep? If your boat is a single axle then the tongue weight would likely remove weight from the front axle wouldn't it? And multiple axles would be fairly balanced? I'm thinking about triple towing but our boat is very light.
 
How much stress would the boat put on the Jeep? If your boat is a single axle then the tongue weight would likely remove weight from the front axle wouldn't it? And multiple axles would be fairly balanced? I'm thinking about triple towing but our boat is very light.
My boat is a 20 foot loaded bass boat on a dual axle trailer. The tj axle shafts are tiny, if one breaks it will exit the vehicle. Ive seen people triple tow with a xj so maybe Im just over thinking it with a little buyers remorse about my tj buy. haha. I currently triple tow with a 2015 cherokee trail hawk. My rv is a diesel. Im guessing you cant post pics on here w out a host like photo bucket back in the day but unsure. I havent been on a forum in years.
 
My boat is a 20 foot loaded bass boat on a dual axle trailer. The tj axle shafts are tiny, if one breaks it will exit the vehicle. Ive seen people triple tow with a xj so maybe Im just over thinking it with a little buyers remorse about my tj buy. haha. I currently triple tow with a 2015 cherokee trail hawk. My rv is a diesel. Im guessing you cant post pics on here w out a host like photo bucket back in the day but unsure. I havent been on a forum in years.

You can post pics, just click on the "attach files" button, then after they load select "insert" and choose if you want thumbnails or full size. Not sure if you have to have a certain number of posts first but if I recall I posted pics when I was brand new.

post pics.jpg
 
My boat is a 20 foot loaded bass boat on a dual axle trailer. The tj axle shafts are tiny, if one breaks it will exit the vehicle. Ive seen people triple tow with a xj so maybe Im just over thinking it with a little buyers remorse about my tj buy. haha. I currently triple tow with a 2015 cherokee trail hawk. My rv is a diesel. Im guessing you cant post pics on here w out a host like photo bucket back in the day but unsure. I havent been on a forum in years.

You do understand the TJ has basically the same axles as the XJ right?