What did you do to your TJ today?

Got a call back, found a burnt valve on my misfiring cylinder 3. Head job and check for cracked head time.

Very aero wallet soon.

Check prices on remanufactured engines and compare to what it will cost to have your head redone. (no warranty on the block going this route)
I just went through a similar issue... Cyl 3 exhaust valve lifter collapsed causing popping back through the intake, while limping it home the intake valve pushrod bent in 2 places...

I lucked out and found a reman with only 1700 miles on it. The guy decided to do an LS swap after putting the new engine in and it didn't give him the uptic in performance he was hoping for rom a high mileage 4.0 (his loss my gain). I got the engine, trans, transfercase (with SYE) drive shafts and a PSC power steering pump for $2500 plus a road trip whch was actually a nice distraction from the day to day humdrum...
 
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I'm bored today. Sorry i'm spamming the htread lately, but it is what its for.

I took off the rusty front sway bar bushing brackets. I'm already going to replace the brackets. should I replace the bushings while I have the brackets off? They are fine so far.

EDIT: New bushings are $16 shipped from Amazon. They will be here on Friday.
 
I'm bored today. Sorry i'm spamming the htread lately, but it is what its for.

I took off the rusty front sway bar bushing brackets. I'm already going to replace the brackets. should I replace the bushings while I have the brackets off? They are fine so far.

EDIT: New bushings are $16 shipped from Amazon. They will be here on Friday.

I'd get the urethane ones. The black rubber ones eventually dry rot and fall apart.
 
Trans leak:

New theory, I think the shift shaft seal is the culprit. I thought it was the gasket leaking, but the diagnostic foot powder spray was showing some red fluid above the gasket. Generally, because of physics and gravity, fluid doesn't flow up. I looked at the SSS and saw some red fluid coming from it. So, I cleaned that area off with brake cleaner and wrapped a shop towel around it. I'll check tomorrow to see if there is any trans fluid on the shop towel. If it is the SSS, I'm trying to decide whether I want to try to replace it again myself, or take it to a shop.
 
I did a few other things today.

  • Removed the front sway bar brackets and ordered new Moog bushings
  • Removed the front and back bumper
  • Cleaned up the front and back bumper with Dawn, water, and a green scrubby pad in preparation to paint them tomorrow
  • Started bleeding on my thumb from something that I don't remember
  • Ordered a new winch mount plate for the winch that I am going to buy from my buddy this weekend
 
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I'm bored today. Sorry i'm spamming the htread lately, but it is what its for.

I took off the rusty front sway bar bushing brackets. I'm already going to replace the brackets. should I replace the bushings while I have the brackets off? They are fine so far.

EDIT: New bushings are $16 shipped from Amazon. They will be here on Friday.
Which ones did you get? The rubber ones will fall apart. I got the ones below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C57YQQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
I used those when I had the OEM sway bar and they squeaked a lot. Even with grease applied to them.
I haven't noticed any squeaking with mine, front or rear. I did install a set of sway-bar locks at the same time so there is no lateral movement in the sway bar. I have an AntiRock laying in the garage to put on the front. I'm throwing around the idea of changing the front bumper, so I haven't taken the time to put it on yet.
 
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I noticed it mostly in the speed bumps in my work parking lot and I think that was due to being able to hear it at slow speeds. I could hear it sometime at a little higher speeds if I hit a big pot hole or something similar.
 
Finally got around to replacing the floor pan cover for my 6-speed manual shifter. Picked it up on Amazon, cost was a bit higher than I really wanted to pay, but it was a NOS Mopar part and scratched an itch I have had for quite some time. Easy swap, just a little more time consuming due to stripped out mounting hardware that I had to drill out and tap to get a larger bolt (M8 in what started out as a M6 hole) to tighten properly. Frustration level remained low, more an annoyance than throw-the-wrench angry. Anyway, it's done and I can check another small repair off the list.

Original cover needs a little TLC (Jeep enthusiast code for "toss it and get another one").
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New part installed and secured. One of the easier fixes I've done lately, even with the extra effort of taking care of the stripped mounting hardware. When it takes me less than an hour to to do a job like this, it's a good day. I think I can honestly claim to be at least competent in replacing worn or broken parts like this one, a professional auto mechanic I am not.
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Trans leak:

New theory, I think the shift shaft seal is the culprit. I thought it was the gasket leaking, but the diagnostic foot powder spray was showing some red fluid above the gasket. Generally, because of physics and gravity, fluid doesn't flow up. I looked at the SSS and saw some red fluid coming from it. So, I cleaned that area off with brake cleaner and wrapped a shop towel around it. I'll check tomorrow to see if there is any trans fluid on the shop towel. If it is the SSS, I'm trying to decide whether I want to try to replace it again myself, or take it to a shop.

Gravity alone goes out the window when under chassis wind turbulence is factored in... Just food for thought...
 
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