What did you do to your TJ today?

Replaced the cable in the passenger seat so it folds properly.
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Went to a timber yard today and scorred a freebee for my drop-down tailgate table....American Oak floor-boards.
Unfortunately though the boards don't work as they wont stay together even with the braces I made and glue....(just too heavy)....so back to the drawing board.(pun intended ;) ) Nice pieces of wood though.
american oak.jpg
 
Went to a timber yard today and scorred a freebee for my drop-down tailgate table....American Oak floor-boards.
Unfortunately though the boards don't work as they wont stay together even with the braces I made and glue....(just too heavy)....so back to the drawing board.(pun intended ;) ) Nice pieces of wood though.View attachment 120840


You could put a spline or even some biscuits in the joint for reinforcement and (wood)glue and clamp it till dry. Make sure you have a nice square and a tight fitting joint when dry though. Even without spline/biscuits a good clean square edge glued and clamped till dry will be stronger than the wood itself but I'd still throw in a wood spline. And also you have to make sure you get a good PVA wood glue that allows it to penetrate into the fibers of the wood and not a epoxy type which gets hard and brittle when dry. And with that you have a folding tailgate table right there in front of you.

Those little metal straps you have there won't do anything for a horizontal joint support when table is raised too flimsy. If your set on putting straps for additional support or some other reason I wouldn't go any less than 1/8" thick and that's really not much for holding something flat supported. If it was a L or T that's a different story but just flat metal like that really does nothing.

Good glue joint and you can 99% of the time break the wood in the grain before that glue joint will let go.
 
Can you give some detail on how you wired it up? I've been thinking about doing the same thing on mine.

so I apologize for the delayed response, just seen your question this morning. basically I used a 5 post relay, but only used 4 of the 5 posts. I used a carling switch on the dash, three position on off on. I used 16 gauge wire for all wires not going to the switch, followed with 18 gauge wire running to the switch.
I will get together some more pictures and a diagram of how I wired everything later on today. Have a couple of things that I need to do, but then headed out to play with the Jeep some this afternoon. The process is simple, but time consuming, I’m also very anal when it comes to wiring, I take extra time and keep it neat and clean, I solder and heat shrink every connection.
 
This is in my build thread too, but I plumbed my OBA yesterday. Today, I wired it up to the relay but stopped there until I can get a Carling switch that will match the ARB switches I have in the dash. Plus its windy and chilly out🥶
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Replaced the cable in the passenger seat so it folds properly.
View attachment 120800

You mean your not supposed to have to push back on the seat, then pull the loop forward and release the seat at the same time? ? LOL.

I wonder if mine could just need adjusting? It does work, but like I say, only when I push back on the seat first. Although, as I type this and keep seeing the video clip play over and over, mine does't slide forward, just releases the back to tip forward. Are all year supposed to slide also? Mine is a 99.
 
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Mine does not tumble that easy. I have 03-06 seats in a '99. I wish I knew how to tune the bracket a little better. It will fold. But when it comes to the tumble part it catches and you have to really reef on the seat to get it to tumble.

I asked a different question above, but just saw your post. Mine is a 99 TJ, but I'm not sure what year seats, or even if my seats have been changed or just reupholstered. I know they don't match as far as one has plain vinyl on the sides and the other is all cloth all the way across.

Mine neither slide or tumble when I pull on the loop. I can get mine to tumble but I have to reach underneath and pull (or push?) on the lever to do so.

I'm really thinking my seats are really messed up. LOL
 
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Yesterday I bought this,

sqzf1jXdT4eKdB33D0KJmw.jpg


And today I took this off of the funky mount it was on, and got it ready to install on the mount I bought yesterday. :D I was going to reuse the bolts that were in the big mount but the PO used several different bolt sizes and I can't stand that. LOL I will go get some bolts tomorrow and get it mounted. Then we will have to run power wire to the front and back of the Jeep. :D

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I know it is not a Warn, but it was free so can't complain.

Think this hook is big enough for a recovery hook? LOL It was the one that was on it. As you can see I removed it. Will be getting a much smaller one. :D

fullsizeoutput_3e1f.jpeg
 
Got my transmission out, everything all cleaned up and after a lot of struggling the right torque converter installed. (Really no information for a 97 32RH torque converter). Will have it back in tomorrow and see if the transmission is still ok. 🤞View attachment 120923
Did you drop the pan to inspect the fluid? Fingers crossed.
 
Yesterday I bought this,

View attachment 120902

And today I took this off of the funky mount it was on, and got it ready to install on the mount I bought yesterday. :D I was going to reuse the bolts that were in the big mount but the PO used several different bolt sizes and I can't stand that. LOL I will go get some bolts tomorrow and get it mounted. Then we will have to run power wire to the front and back of the Jeep. :D

View attachment 120904

View attachment 120905

I know it is not a Warn, but it was free so can't complain.

Think this hook is big enough for a recovery hook? LOL It was the one that was on it. As you can see I removed it. Will be getting a much smaller one. :D

View attachment 120903
We need to start calling you Moby Dick with a hook like that haha
 
You could put a spline or even some biscuits in the joint for reinforcement and (wood)glue and clamp it till dry. Make sure you have a nice square and a tight fitting joint when dry though. Even without spline/biscuits a good clean square edge glued and clamped till dry will be stronger than the wood itself but I'd still throw in a wood spline. And also you have to make sure you get a good PVA wood glue that allows it to penetrate into the fibers of the wood and not a epoxy type which gets hard and brittle when dry. And with that you have a folding tailgate table right there in front of you.

Those little metal straps you have there won't do anything for a horizontal joint support when table is raised too flimsy. If your set on putting straps for additional support or some other reason I wouldn't go any less than 1/8" thick and that's really not much for holding something flat supported. If it was a L or T that's a different story but just flat metal like that really does nothing.

Good glue joint and you can 99% of the time break the wood in the grain before that glue joint will let go.
X2 on everything you have said. The Oak was tongue and groove and I agree those metal straps did nothing but it was all I had laying around haha... I decided that it was just too heavy for this job and I'll use it for something else.
I end up going with treated pine instead...Not as good looking (IMO) but will do the job...updates later.
 
Did you drop the pan to inspect the fluid? Fingers crossed.
I did, new filter and seal. Fluid looked good not brown or floating shavings. There was lots of chit that clogged the filter which starved the trans of pressure and ultimately made it slip. (At least I hope that was why it slipped) No metal pieces just a bunch of what looks like rubber shavings, perhaps clutch stuff from the torque converter, I'm really not sure. Only time will tell.