What did you do to your TJ today?

[Kiwi TJ]

Got my first DMV Renewal notice! Jeeps for sale! LOL Just kidding. I would like to start a go fund me. Good news is, no smog this time around. Yay. Get to drive it for another year.

Are you saying you have to pass a smog test in your Jeep before they will allow it on the road for another year ?

 

[L J]

Are you saying you have to pass a smog test in your Jeep before they will allow it on the road for another year ?

With the exception of a few counties, California has biennial smog testing prior to registration for vehicles of the TJs age.

 

[Kiwi TJ]

With the exception of a few counties, California has biennial smog testing prior to registration for vehicles of the TJs age.

We do that here too but if they can see smoke coming out the back then will put the smog-o-meter ( technical term ) on it to check it properly

 

[All 4 Wheelin']

We do that here too but if they can see smoke coming out the back then will put the smog-o-ter ( technical term ) on it to check it properly

Washington State has had biennial emissions tests for yrs. As of 2020 it will no longer be required.

 

[jazngab]

Currie rear upper control arms came in. Installed them (well kinda...had trouble drilling the holes bigger to fit the bolts so put in the stock bolts for now) and changed the rear lower CAs. Driveshaft arrives Thursday....there’s a light at the end of the tunnel! Almost there!

 

[JMT]

@jazngab, Those look nice, very nice. I hope to have some next year.

 

[KimsJeep]

Are you saying you have to pass a smog test in your Jeep before they will allow it on the road for another year ?

Well, your question is already answered, but I just wanted to add, I was just kind of shocked I didn't have to have one because when I bought it from a used car lot, I didn't take it to have it smogged. The dealer claimed they do it ahead of time, which didn't make since. They actually had had it for a while before I bought it. Oh well, I'm happy I don't need the smog this year.

 

[Fonz54]

With the exception of a few counties, California has biennial smog testing prior to registration for vehicles of the TJs age.

Once the vehicle reaches its 30th birthday Smog testing is no longer required. As of this year 1989 and older are exempt.

 

[KimsJeep]

Once the vehicle reaches its 30th birthday Smog testing is no longer required. As of this year 1989 and older are exempt.

Hmm, are you talking about CA for this 30 year old rule? As far as I know that is no longer the case. I have a friend that has a 76 VW bus and he has to get it smogged. As far as I know, it is 75 and down doesn't need a smog, 76 and up do. In CA, that is.

 

[Brian Alcorn]

Well the wife called when leaving work and said something in the engine is screaming so I went to check it out ... either bad idler pulley or bad tensioner pulley ... so I drove it home pulled the belt and the tensioner pulley would free spin but sounded like it had gravel in it and the idler would barely free spin at all like less than half a turn so I replaced them both. Just finished and it's currently 25 degrees outside and no garage ... yay me!!

 

[jazngab]

Found a sweet deal on some 33x12.5x15 General Grabber ATXs that only had 300 miles on them. Even though I prefer to have 33x10.5s I couldn’t pass up on these for the price I got them for. Still even has the blue wax on the white letters. I’m graduating to 33s!

 

[All 4 Wheelin']

Well the wife called when leaving work and said something in the engine is screaming so I went to check it out ... either bad idler pulley or bad tensioner pulley ... so I drove it home pulled the belt and the tensioner pulley would free spin but sounded like it had gravel in it and the idler would barely free spin at all like less than half a turn so I replaced them both. Just finished and it's currently 25 degrees outside and no garage ... yay me!!

Hardcore dude.

 

[Brian Alcorn]

I do hvac service so I dress for success ... cold dont really bother unless I'm standing still

 

[Baltimoreed]

My mechanic replaced my idler pulley when he installed my O2s and jousts last time he worked on Ripley. I hadn’t noticed it but I’m glad he caught it before it sheared off. Had one shear off on my ‘96 Explorer, damaged my fan blade, luckily nothing else.

 

[MountaineerTom]

Over the last few days, I ordered a Dorman Transmission Pan with drain plug and Dorman Nylon Gasket to replace the brass one that comes with it after reading reviews of people having leaks with the brass, but not the nylon. I also ordered an Auto Meter 1/8 NPT bung for my trans temp sensor.


After tightening the drain plug, I let it sit about 72 hours with fluid in the pan while I waited for the bung to arrive. No leaks.

After the bung came in, measured and checked and double checked where I wanted to drill. The spot I chose ended up being between the bottom of the transmission body and the filter, drilled the hole and had a friend weld in the bung for me. Then I let it sit for about 36 hours with fluid in the pan again checking for leaks. No leaks noted.

Primed and painted the bare metal outside areas and reinstalled with my Lube Locker LLT-A042 gasket. I wish I had thought to spray the outside of the pan with flat black paint instead of gloss, it would make seeing a leaking easier I think. Installed Permatex Ultra Black on the threads of the pan bolt that has the red paint on the end. Then reinstalled my Savvy engine skid.

Previously, I used a couple of those drain plug kits for the drain and the sensor. They were ok, but kinda big and bulky. The location I had put the sensor made it really close to the Savvy engine skid. Also, about a month ago when I changed the fluid and filter, the drain kit started leaking a little after putting the plug back in. Not from the plug itself, but the nut housing/gaskets that go through the pan. So far, this has fixed both of those issues.


Here's the previous setup.

 

[lowranger]

Well, your question is already answered, but I just wanted to add, I was just kind of shocked I didn't have to have one because when I bought it from a used car lot, I didn't take it to have it smogged. The dealer claimed they do it ahead of time, which didn't make since. They actually had had it for a while before I bought it. Oh well, I'm happy I don't need the smog this year.

In California, it's the seller's responsibility to have the vehicle smogged before selling it.

 

[Fonz54]

Hmm, are you talking about CA for this 30 year old rule? As far as I know that is no longer the case. I have a friend that has a 76 VW bus and he has to get it smogged. As far as I know, it is 75 and down doesn't need a smog, 76 and up do. In CA, that is.

You are right. DMV shows only 1975 and older are exempt. I had bad info.

 

[mgroeger]

Over the last few days, I ordered a Dorman Transmission Pan with drain plug and Dorman Nylon Gasket to replace the brass one that comes with it after reading reviews of people having leaks with the brass, but not the nylon. I also ordered an Auto Meter 1/8 NPT bung for my trans temp sensor.


After tightening the drain plug, I let it sit about 72 hours with fluid in the pan while I waited for the bung to arrive. No leaks.

View attachment 124838



After the bung came in, measured and checked and double checked where I wanted to drill. The spot I chose ended up being between the bottom of the transmission body and the filter, drilled the hole and had a friend weld in the bung for me. Then I let it sit for about 36 hours with fluid in the pan again checking for leaks. No leaks noted.

View attachment 124839
View attachment 124840



Primed and painted the bare metal outside areas and reinstalled with my Lube Locker LLT-A042 gasket. I wish I had thought to spray the outside of the pan with flat black paint instead of gloss, it would make seeing a leaking easier I think. Installed Permatex Ultra Black on the threads of the pan bolt that has the red paint on the end. Then reinstalled my Savvy engine skid.
View attachment 124841
View attachment 124842


Previously, I used a couple of those drain plug kits for the drain and the sensor. They were ok, but kinda big and bulky. The location I had put the sensor made it really close to the Savvy engine skid. Also, about a month ago when I changed the fluid and filter, the drain kit started leaking a little after putting the plug back in. Not from the plug itself, but the nut housing/gaskets that go through the pan. So far, this has fixed both of those issues.


Here's the previous setup.
View attachment 124843
View attachment 124844

What was special about the bolt that was red that you had to but silicon on it?

 

[Baltimoreed]

Finished my Cj vent cover on Ripley’s cowl. Replaced the 4 rusty upper screws with ss and replaced the sheetmetal clips on the lower 2. I found OEM looking screws and clips at NAPA. Two more holes to drill for the Cj windshield supports to complete the Tj to Cj hood mods. The black metal grid is a baking rack. I couldn’t get it on until I removed the rack where the center support was located. Duh.

 

[MountaineerTom]

What was special about the bolt that was red that you had to but silicon on it?

That one extends into the housing, so I guess there is a possibility of it leaking. The Factory Service Manual states "NOTE: One of the oil pan bolts (5) has a sealing patch applied from the factory. Separate this bolt for reuse."

and

"NOTE: Before installing the oil pan bolt (5) in the bolt hole located between the torque converter clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits (Fig. 153), it will be necessary to replenish the sealing patch on the bolt using MoparT Lock & Seal Adhesive."

I didn't use the MOPAR stuff though.