What did you do to your TJ today?

I've just read that they're beefier and can last forever if you keep them greased and maintained. I've never felt like the existing links, the original stockers and the subsequent moog replacements, are especially sturdy or reliable for anything other than road driving...

All I can say is that on my drive to work today, I didn't notice any difference. I'm guessing that with something like this, on road, one wouldn't really notice a difference? I have yet to go off roading with them on. I'm thinking about going off roading the 29th, so if I do I will report back. :D
 
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All I can say is that on my drive to work today, I didn't notice any difference. I'm guessing that with something like this, on road, one wouldn't really notice a difference? I have yet to go off roading with them on. I'm thinking about going off roading the 29th, so if I do I will report back. :D
Driving with them connected is going to be exactly the same as with the factory links, other than they will last considerably longer because they don't use a ball and socket for the upper joint. The difference is going to be when you disconnect your front end will articulate way more and going over uneven bumps wont jar you side to side nearly as bad.
 
Finally installed my bestop tire carrier
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YEAH! Got the same gasket waiting for a nice day to install...How long did this one actually take ya?
It probably took 3 hours, start to finish. That was working slowly, taking my time and doing a lot of cleaning in and around the area. The wiring harness is a bit of a pain to get off and out of the way. It has 3 legs that it mounts on. I modified it and cut off 2 of the legs, so it will be much easier to get off and on in the future. The upper radiator hose, heater hoses, and AC lines are in the way, but you can work around them without removing or disconnecting them.
 
These are what I am using and am pleased with. Someone else on the forum recommend them.
iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs with Projector replacement for Back Up Reverse Lights,Brake Lights,Tail Lights,Rv lights,Xenon White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721FNCWP/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I think the trick is to look at the actual SMD LEDs on a given bulb. I think fewer 3030 diodes on these will put off my light than a higher number of inferior LEDs. I'm pleased with them so far.

JSBOYAT 1157 2057 2357 7528 BAY15D LED Bulbs for Backup Reverse Lights Brake Lights, 3600LM Super Bright Xenon White 6000K (4PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQ3FPXN/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
I found the wiring harness on the firewall end of the valve cover to be a huge pain in the ass in getting the valve cover off.
x2! I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago. Man, that wiring harness bridge will make a preacher cuss. I'm pretty sure I spent far more time fiddling and snatching on that than I did on the gasket replacement. By far the worst.
 
And just like that, I have name brand "Grab Bars". LOL All better now, they are purple. :D I have to say it was a pretty simple change. I was thinking it was going to be a nightmare to get the black ones off. Ended up being really easy. :D

8147ADA6-EC1A-4772-B38E-1AF032C6D63D.jpeg


Oh, and I have to say, the cheap set's grips were a lot more rubbery feeling. The Grab bar ones feel more like plastic then rubber. But, they're purple. LOL I did save the black ones, just in case. :D
 
I have a 2002, and I may be lucky, but all I had to do to get it working was replace the cable under the seat. I lubed the rails and pivot points while I had the seat out, but other than that it was a snap.

Before the fix, the tab on the upper part of the seat would fold the seat forward, but I had to push down on the lever under the seat to get it to tumble. While I had it apart I was trying to figure out how a cable on the bottom of the seat would do all 3 actions as it does not go up to the pull tab, but it does work. Only took about 20 minutes to do as well.

The frustrating thing is the 18" cable is too thin. I see what it breaks so easily, and at $55 for a replacement it is waaaaay to much money to keep doing over and over, so I hope this lasts for a while.
I’m trying to figure out why my seat will not tumble. I looked underneath tonight and found the lever and it works using it but I found a cable that has came loose. Where does it attach?
 
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This looks like it might fit down into what you have and be a cheap fix to the cupholder problem. You could always get some SEM adhesion promoter and paint in your color and paint it to match.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=323884776758


Or this for a lot more, and you'd need the rubber sup holder insert too.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=123771298012

Tom, you rock!! I got the cup holder version and it’s perfect. It’s not the right color but I couldn’t care less. Best of all, now my wife is happy with the Jeep again. She can bring her Diet Coke with her, LOL!

19F1F9E8-8BC3-4B79-8224-265ACDC06948.jpeg
 
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Tom, you rock!! I got the cup holder version and it’s perfect. It’s not the right color but I couldn’t care less. Best of all, now my wife is happy with the Jeep again. She can bring her Diet Coke with her, LOL!

View attachment 141363

Awesome! Happy wife, happy life!

SEM makes some good interior paint if you do decide to paint it to match.
 
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Thanks, but I think it’s just fine the way it is. There’s something pretty about the ugly, if you know what I mean. I just showed it to my wife and she’s over the moon about it. $35 for her to have her cup holder? Yeah, she’s a happy camper. ;)

Thanks again. I owe you one.