What did you do to your TJ today?

Not today, but this week, I installed the JKS disconnects, and started prepping the winch for installation. Cleaned and painted the sway bar and associated pieces, and mounted the winch to the winch plate.

The Warn instructions list 35ft-lbs for the plate bolts. Man that just feels low, but I followed the instructions, so hopefully it holds. Also, tech tip....install the fairlead before attaching the winch to the plate.
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Built the necessary tool for Skid plate nutsert replacement outlined by Mrblaine. Dropping the skid after far too long with the hopes of getting a sye and driveshaft bolted up tomorrow. But if I was a betting man, I’d wager I’ll spend a significant amount of time fighting bolts and trashed nutserts, watching precious daylight disappear. As long as the frames solid enough under there, I’ll be a happy man.
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ParatrooperJeeper said:
Built the necessary tool for Skid plate nutsert replacement outlined by Mrblaine. Dropping the skid after far too long with the hopes of getting a sye and driveshaft bolted up tomorrow. But if I was a betting man, I’d wager I’ll spend a significant amount of time fighting bolts and trashed nutserts, watching precious daylight disappear. As long as the frames solid enough under there, I’ll be a happy man.
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When you use that fancy new tool be sure to apply a little grease between the nut and washer so it doesn't bind up.
 
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Bababooey said:
Would be cool if they built a quick disconnect in those to give you the option of laying the hood on the windshield. Although it looks like standard prop rod disconnects which are quick and easy enough to remove i suppose.
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Yeah, I thought about that, because it does add a lot more room completely flipped back. But this is so much easier for little things under the hood. (Especially since I need to top off the transmission all the time..)
And yes, you are correct, it is easy to pop the struts out easily. I can see that causing an issue if you do it a lot though. But I'm sure once in a while it would be fine.
 
ParatrooperJeeper said:
Just want to confirm, star washer and nut, correct?

I never underestimate my own ability to screw up simple directions 😁
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Correct. Mine was a little simpler. 3 parts. Bolt, flat washer, and oversized nut with chiseled hash marks on one side to grip the nutsert. Mr Blaine's tool requires you to hold the bolt still and crank on the nut, mine works the opposite.
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For mine I apply grease on bothe sides of the washer. With mine I was able to place an open end wrench on the oversized nut, line the wrench up with the frame and place a c- clamp on the vertical surfaces of the frame so it cradles the loose end of the wrench. That way you can use both hands on a ratchet to turn the bolt and collapse the nutsert.
 
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Got these bad boys today to tidy up what I needed for my tube fender install. I’ll install them at a slight angle front-to-side so that I only need to wire these up for running lights and turn signals.
Side markers
 
All 4 Wheelin' said:
Correct. Mine was a little simpler. 3 parts. Bolt, flat washer, and oversized nut with chiseled hash marks on one side to grip the nutsert. Mr Blaine's tool requires you to hold the bolt still and crank on the nut, mine works the opposite.View attachment 159676View attachment 159677
For mine I apply grease on bothe sides of the washer. With mine I was able to place an open end wrench on the oversized nut, line the wrench up with the frame and place a c- clamp on the vertical surfaces of the frame so it cradles the loose end of the wrench. That way you can use both hands on a ratchet to turn the bolt and collapse the nutsert.
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To be frank, I had quite a bit of confusion working through some of the variations of this so I may have deviated from mrblaine said and did what you described. I used this link below which seems to describe what your saying(though it’s a black magic brake instruction I believe):
http://www.justaddrocks.com/Nutsert_Instructions.htm
it’s an oversized nut, the washer acts as the serrated portion of the nut. So in theory I should be able to secure that nut in a similar fashion to what you described and ratchet the bolt. Or am I adding more confusion to it?
 
ParatrooperJeeper said:
To be frank, I had quite a bit of confusion working through some of the variations of this so I may have deviated from mrblaine said and did what you described. I used this link below which seems to describe what your saying(though it’s a black magic brake instruction I believe):
http://www.justaddrocks.com/Nutsert_Instructions.htm
it’s an oversized nut, the washer acts as the serrated portion of the nut. So in theory I should be able to secure that nut in a similar fashion to what you described and ratchet the bolt. Or am I adding more confusion to it?
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As I described about my setup and what my pics show is the oversized nut gets serrated on one surface. This surface then goes against the nutsert to hold it in place. Then the flat washer goes between the bolt head and the unmolested surface of the oversized nut. To serrate the oversized nut I used a cold chisel. And so there isn't any confusion, oversized nut mean the threads don't interact with the bolt threads. That way the bolt will spin freely.
 
All 4 Wheelin' said:
As I described about my setup and what my pics show is the oversized nut gets serrated on one surface. This surface then goes against the nutsert to hold it in place. Then the flat washer goes between the bolt head and the unmolested surface of the oversized nut. To serrate the oversized nut I used a cold chisel. And so there isn't any confusion, oversized nut mean the threads don't interact with the bolt threads. That way the bolt will spin freely.
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Got it, I understand it now. I’ll make sure to grease up and report back on a (hopefully) successful and easy job. Thanks again, All 4 Wheelin’
 
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Winch is mounted. I am going to need spring spacers in the front since it looks like I have a 1970's muscle car rake going on now. It had a bit of a rake already, and an extra 100# seems to have really exaggerated it. I had planed on doing a 2" spring lift in the near future, but probably not for a few months. Do most people still need the spacers with the spring lift, or do you compensate with 3" lift springs in the front and 2" in the rear? I guess I am wondering if I get the spacers now will I need them/can I use them with a 2" spring lift, or would I be wasiting money on them?

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gbirk said:
Winch is mounted. I am going to need spring spacers in the front since it looks like I have a 1970's muscle car rake going on now. It had a bit of a rake already, and an extra 100# seems to have really exaggerated it. I had planed on doing a 2" spring lift in the near future, but probably not for a few months. Do most people still need the spacers with the spring lift, or do you compensate with 3" lift springs in the front and 2" in the rear? I guess I am wondering if I get the spacers now will I need them/can I use them with a 2" spring lift, or would I be wasiting money on them?

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You have a few options.

Higher spring rate. You could get 2" springs all around but ones that have higher spring rates to match accessories. Like a heavy rear bumper and front winch. OME for example has a variety of springs to match hardtop/soft top, winch, bumper, tyre carrier etc.

Spring spacers. Are typically a more budget choice if you already had lifted springs on and want to regain the sag from installing accessories.

I'd install some spring spacers now to level it out. But aim for the correct spring rate (one that matches your loaded weight) in the future purchase.
 
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Jamesval035 said:
Thanks again and thanks to the person that installed the 3.0 USB ports and posted about it. Reamed out the cig. lighter hole to fit the ports and relocated my ARB switches into the stock location with a little filing of the plastic. Now I need a duplicate of the switch bracket for the blank right side for my fog light switch. Not sure I like the USB port that low though. Can't really see it cause the ARB switches are Huuuge.

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Looks good! Here's a photo of the wiring on mine for anyone else reading these posts and hoping to replicate.
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Put oil in the engine after letting the gasket sealer fully cure out from the rear main seal installation last week. Took the Jeep for a long drive and I am happy to report it appears rear main seal #2 is a success! I'm not seeing any indications of leaking. I used the Mopar rear main seal this time.
 
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It was clear to me that my TJ had a rust problem, but what I found today amazed me.
after I have cleaned up my front axle, the rear end is now, When i removing the rear shock absorber on the passenger side, a screw of the shock fell into the protective tank of the petrol tank. I used a magnet to find it again.
After I had my screw back, I saw the large round opening on the side of the rear frame and ran the magnet in there. I experienced a surprise what I got out of it. a dustpan full of detached material from inside the frame.


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